Hey guys, my kit is almost installed and I've got a few questions for tomorrow... any help is appreciated

1. What, if anytihng, do the 2 hoses in my hand attach to? they were attached to nipples on my intake before, can I just remove them now?



2. Is this tee alright for my wastegate?



3. My engine is an obd0 b16. I have 2 1-wire o2 sensors.. when I get my downpipe made tomorrow should i get 1 or 2 bungs put in? Will my car be alright to drive without one of the o2's hooked up or can I splice that signal into the other ecu pin?

4. Last one, where do you guys get your vacuum for the boost gauge from, I'll search this one in a second though, just thought I'd through it in

thanks

 

Yes you can remove them,as far as the o2 sensors you should run two o2 sensors if you run one sensor for both it causes 2 of your cyls. to run rich or leaner than the other 2 cyls., it will work for a temp.

 

Should I remove them completely or just plug them? as for the o2's I think I'll try with just 1 until I can get my ecu chipped to remove the other.. boost gauge I'm gonna tee into the fpr thanks for the quick reply

 

You can just remove them.What is the vac. line going to top of you throttle body going to?

 

map sensor I believe, it could be going to the evap canister but I'm pretty sure it's for the map sensor...

 

The one more tords the front shud be the map,the other is the EVAP you can remove the canister and all.

 

thanks man

How about the wastegate, is that line alright?

 

oh yea nad has anyone ever had a problem with their crank hitting the return fitting on the oil pan? I doubt it but just checking...

 

I would T the wastegate line off the vac line for the fuel presure regulator and cap that other one at the manifold and also cap the one for the pcv valve at the manifold and remove the pcv valve you shouldn't run that on a turbo car, you just want to keep all you vac line as simple as possible to eliminate future vac leaks and ease trouble shooting problems for the future.

 

Don't want to run a pcv valve? Why do so many people use catch cans then lol. Not being a dick, just wondering because I don't think that's correct.

Dan

 

Crank hitting return fitting? You mean the one in the block that spins? or do you mean crank pulley, both being impossible.

 

I thought it was bs to but the guy that told me to check into that builds racecars for a living so I didnt really wanna argue with him..

He meant like the cm or so that the fitting sticks into the pan, not the outside part

 

A pcv valve works off of vac. so for one it will fale after time getting boost and then it will be a vac. leak. A catchcan can be run off the valve cover or the block to release crank case pressure and free up horsepower by releasing crank case pressure,under boosted conditions a pcv valve will hold pressure in. Plus a catchcan will catch blow by.

 

i ran the wastegate hose to a connector on the compressor side of my turbo housing,

for the 2 mysterious things on the intake manifold, everyone told me to plug them, but when i tried that the car wouldnt idle and it went crazy, i have a tee with 5 plugs, one is coming off something from the firewall, the fmu, the fuel pressure regulator, and those 2 hoses are all connected,

i might be able to get you some pics tommorow

get both o2 bungs added to your dp, you cant just splice the signal, it doesnt work that way!

 

what kind of engine management are you running? you motor will not run its best with only one o2... obd0 ecus need 2 readings. its not that much harder to just add another bung to the DP anyway.

 

accually on any obd0 honda u can series the o2s because there not heated o2 sencors , i have dont that on many of the swaps i have done and never seen a CEL from it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 11secEk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">accually on any obd0 honda u can series the o2s because there not heated o2 sencors , i have dont that on many of the swaps i have done and never seen a CEL from it </TD></TR></TABLE>

it didnt work that way for me and several other people that i have helped with swaps, got cel's for it, if you split the signal its an improper voltage for the ecu and it will throw a cell,

a 2nd bung is probably less than 25 installed, so why not just do it the right way the first time!

 

so.. without management, when your car see's boost, and goes into limp mode, what are you going to do?

when your in boost, and your map sensor doens't like it, what are you going to do about timming?

if you use check valves, your car worn't see boost, but it will be off on timming, and fuel.. are you using a FMU atleast?

you need to do some research.

 

The FPR isn't the best place to source boost. I would try other places.

 

About the two hoses in your hand. The one on the left is a vac. advance for the throttle and can be removed without problem. The one on the right brings me great concern, and here is why. Your B16 is actually from an car with an automatic transmission. Your b16 is actually detuned. I say this because I have the exact same engine sitting in my DA. The area that the vacum hose on the right leads to, control the autotranny. Simply removing and plugging this hole will not completely seal it from leaks. I had a looping idle for a long time until I unscrewed this piece from the manifold, folded up a piece of duct tape and fit it over the hole in the manifold and then rebolted the piece back to the mani. Basicly, it has to be plugged from the back side, mounted to the mani. It will generate air leaks. Second problem, your cams and possibly compression are detuned. If you get the chance, pop off your valve cover and take a look at your cams vs. a standard b16 or GSR cams like I run. The VTEC lobes are huge in comparison. Second, test out your compression. I ran a solid 185lbs on all for cyl. Thats not good for a VTEC engine. The motor has run well for two years and still holds 183lbs on each cyl. which leads me to assume that the compression for autotranny b16s, is lower.

 

huh?

what the hell does compression or JDM engine in US cars being de-tunned? its all in the ECU?

AUTO B16's only differ in the ECU's.. different REV limit and as you know, shift solinoinds in the tranny for AT ECU's..

all this BS isn't his concern... he has a running B16 in a car, and now he wants boost.

question #1. cap off those 2 items... they're unneeded, like our buddy said, one was for vaccum advance, and i belive the other was the dashpot for the AC. cap them both off.

question #2. that will work, but usually they try and get pressure off the compressor housing of the turbo.. alot easier, and no hanging dangleing hoses flopping around.

question #3. if you continue to run the stock PR3/PW0 ECU, you will need to run both O2's.. will your car run without one or even both? yes... but it will idle and coast around town like ***. if you wanted to go with 1 O2.. i would suggest getting it chipped.. chipped ECU's go with 1 o2.

question #4. you could use the same place you picked up vaccum for the wastegate.. or any vaccum hose on the manifold. im using the hose from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. any vaccum sorce with work.

 

wow this got alot of action while I was sleeping. Thanks everyone.

I'll be using the hack for fuel management and be leaving shortly to get my downpipe made up (with 2 o2 bungs for stock and 1 for the wideband).

Even though I've gotten various answers on the 2 hoses, they're coming off today, I'll post up what happens when the car is running and with pictures of my set-up and stuff.

Again, thanks all

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4_door_teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't want to run a pcv valve? Why do so many people use catch cans then lol. Not being a dick, just wondering because I don't think that's correct.

Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't HAVE to run a PCV valve or a catch can.

 

Make sure you put zip ties on your WG line. I didnt, and for about 18 months everything was fine. Then on a joy ride the wg line popped off, I hit god knows what psi, and blew a nice big hole inthe stock block. All of which could have been avoided with a 5 cent zip tie.

 

where do you guys buy your t's for the boost gauge? all of mine are to big..