<FONT SIZE="5">$1800, the title is wrong.</FONT>

i have $1800 to put into a b16. im looking for 180-190hp reliabily.

i dont have any preference really, i just want RELAIBLE and all motor.

i was thinking of things along the lines of this:
ctr pistons, rods, rings.
jun valvetrain
jdm dc header
skunk 2 cam
rs*r exhaust
port and polish

just want to know if its possible, feasable, whatever.

thanks to anyone that will help out.

edit:

my other option is to toss on a JRSC @ 6psi for $1500 used, and call it a day at 200hp. all i wanna do is break 13.9


Modified by jbell at 2:23 AM 12/8/2004

 

Make up your mind is it 1200 or 1800. Ctr's are a waste if your on a budget mill the head

 

shiiit. i meant 1800. dunno why i typed 1200 in the title.

 

do everything but the port and polish... that is really expsensive...unless u can find a good deal. money wise and reliability skunk2 valve tran is awsome, and then whatever cams.

 

Build an Ls block for Ls vtec and buy a type R manifold

 

i would start with the tech43 pistons and ls crank

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrMike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would start with the tech43 pistons and ls crank</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was looking into that. what kind of power does it make?

how reliable?

whats the rev limit?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alld16a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make up your mind is it 1200 or 1800. Ctr's are a waste if your on a budget mill the head</TD></TR></TABLE>

How are CTR cams a waste of money if you're on a budget?? First off, he can use his stock valve train with them(assuming he keeps his stock rev limit) plus the fact that how many of these cams do you see in 13 second street cars?

My friend ran a 14.1 with a stock jdm b16 in his 92 dx hatchback with a lsd equipped tranny on **** street tires. It's way important to consider your weight of the vehicle, if you're running at sea level or high elevation, and also do you want these times on slicks or street tires....does it matter? On slicks, assuming you have a hatchback, this goal is highly obbtainable. Personally, I would cut the head, do used ctr cams, a good top end header, rsr ex-mag, hondata s100 and have it tuned PROPERLEY. When you mill the head, it's gonna through your cam timing way off, so get some cam gears, just remember that tuning is everything. Also, when you are going to change parts in the block, labor can get way spendy if you don't know how to do it yourself. Keep the 1.6 crank brother, we gotta stick together and show these big block fellas that we're fast too! Good luck man!!

 

i want 13.9 in a 2500lb vehicle (del sol w/ me in it) street tires, at sea level.

im still unsure what to do, lol.

 

geez, gotta stop posting and studying for finals at the same time.


Modified by Falqon at 9:01 PM 12/8/2004

 

polished valve cover.
mugen resevoir socks.
four lap dances.
80-shot direct port nitrous.

put that b16 into a eg/ef hatch.
problem solved.
13.9's on $25 nankang tires all day

 

^^^^^^lol, holla for the NANKANGs....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Falqon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Shaved and CTR? I don't know if the average person wants to drive around an engine about to blow up.

Personally I wouldn't run more than 11.5, and I don't see why anybody would bother paying to get a head shaved for half of a compression point. You can search if you want, a lot of smart people agree that it's better to have advanced timing than insane compression ratio.</TD></TR></TABLE>

CTR pistons or cams?? If you're talking about pistons, then I agree. I was talking about doind CTR CAMS and a shaved head, that will, depending on how much you cut it, give you a very comfortable compression ratio. The reason for shaving the head is to avoid having to pull the block apart, which could be labor intensive, milling the head is a much more cost effective way to get more than "half a point" of compression. $1,800 dollars to throw at a heavy car on street tires and get in the 13's is gonna be a challenge. Another friend of mine, who is a VERY good driver, only ran a 15 flat on street tires in a factory b16 del sol.

 

the motor has 100k on it... so...

what i was thinking is this:

ctr cams, ctr pistons, crower springs and retainers, new bearings, fix whatever else is wrong.

this will give me a good base to start with, correct?

would there be any reason to go with itr pistons and cams instead?

 

personally, i would avoid milling the head. ctr's in a b16 give you a perfect compression ratio and are fairly cheap. pulling the block apart is not that difficult, it may take an extra two hours out of you day to do it. if you tear down the block, replace the bearings, ctr pistons, and rings, get everything balanced, then you have a great platform for a great motor. everything will be brand new and you will have the bottom end for a while as long as you take care of it.

you will regret milling the head...i did. get ctr pistons, they are stronger than your stock b16 pistons. itr pistons would be pointless, as they would yeild about the same if not less compression than your b16 pistons.

to ctr pistons and a rebuild...worry about the head later.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anothersickhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">personally, i would avoid milling the head. ctr's in a b16 give you a perfect compression ratio and are fairly cheap. pulling the block apart is not that difficult, it may take an extra two hours out of you day to do it. if you tear down the block, replace the bearings, ctr pistons, and rings, get everything balanced, then you have a great platform for a great motor. everything will be brand new and you will have the bottom end for a while as long as you take care of it.

you will regret milling the head...i did. get ctr pistons, they are stronger than your stock b16 pistons. itr pistons would be pointless, as they would yeild about the same if not less compression than your b16 pistons.

to ctr pistons and a rebuild...worry about the head later.</TD></TR></TABLE>

while the motor is apart, i might as well do the the head.. so.. any reccomendations?

 

ok, so heres what im gonna do.

i need your guys help and insight.


i want to rebuild the bottom end with ctr pistons.
should i use the stock b16 rods?
i want to get the crank balanced.
i want to replace rings and bearings.

for the head, i want to be able to support the high revs of my bottom end.

can you guys reccomend a setup that wont break the bank?
1200 would be nice, and would leave money for exhaust

 

Ctr's pistons should not go in a b16a read up on topic plenty of info on here

 

dude, CRT's come from B16s

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alld16a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ctr's pistons should not go in a b16a read up on topic plenty of info on here</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you retarded? yes their is plenty of info on ctr pistons in b16's.....but almost all of it supports the fact that its a good upgrade. dont post if you dont know what youre talking about

 

I have seen a B16 with a set of CTR pistons thin headgasket and a set of ITR cams. The motor made 176 whp with a bad #2 cylinder or I guess a low cylinder.
If you are on a budget just stick with OEM, get your self some CTR pistons and a set of CTR cams. Maybe mill the head go with a thin headgasket, add some fuel with a FPR and maybe some prelude injectors. Make sure that you have everything tuned well as far as timing and you will be right there in the 180 to 190 range. Unless you plan on running the motor above about 9500 everyday I wouldn't worry about upgrading the valve train you can shift that motor at 9k all day long and as long as you don't miss shift it will be fine. But you can easily do all that with the money that you have oh and also make sure you get yourself a good 4-1 header actually a JDM ITR 4-1 would work just fine......................

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scLSteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">polished valve cover.
mugen resevoir socks.
four lap dances.
80-shot direct port nitrous.

put that b16 into a eg/ef hatch.
problem solved.
13.9's on $25 nankang tires all day </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh and HIGH FIVE to sclsteg on his idea alittle go fast juice never hurt anyone and by god those lap dance sound mighty fine too....................

 

I have seen a B16 with a set of CTR pistons thin, headgasket and a set of ITR cams. The motor made 176 whp with a bad #2 cylinder or I guess a low cylinder.
If you are on a budget just stick with OEM get your self some CTR pistons and a set of CTR cams. Maybe mill the head go with a thin headgasket, add some fuel with a FPR and maybe some prelude injectors. Make sure that you have everything tuned well as far as timing and you will be right there in the 180 to 190 range. But you can easily do all that with the money that you have oh and also make sure you get yourself a good 4-1 header actually a JDM ITR 4-1 would work just fine......................

 

I guess I'm not understanding why you want to replace the stock valve springs. Are you wanting to rev higher, if so, a ctr cam in your motor isn't gonna make much more power above your stock rev limit. Also, balancing the crank would be a complete waste of time for your projected set up. A B16 has a damn near perfect rod/stroke ratio, balancing wouldn't be justified in your build. You can use your stock rods if you keep your rev limit stock. I have seen b series rods stay together up to 9.5, but granted that is running on borrowed time. Freshen your block, standard bore ctr pistons, ctr cams, thin head gasket and maybe a type r intake manifold. JDM ITR header, good exhasut and hondata.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I'm not understanding why you want to replace the stock valve springs. Are you wanting to rev higher, if so, a ctr cam in your motor isn't gonna make much more power above your stock rev limit. Also, balancing the crank would be a complete waste of time for your projected set up. A B16 has a damn near perfect rod/stroke ratio, balancing wouldn't be justified in your build. You can use your stock rods if you keep your rev limit stock. I have seen b series rods stay together up to 9.5, but granted that is running on borrowed time. Freshen your block, standard bore ctr pistons, ctr cams, thin head gasket and maybe a type r intake manifold. JDM ITR header, good exhasut and hondata. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well.. the head has 100-110k on it also... i figured it wouldnt hurt to rebuild it with better parts.

i want to be able to rev till i stop making power, or it becomes dangerous in the long run.

9000rmps is nice... i thought a bottom end with ctr pistons, rings, new bearings, head gasket, etc would be good.

would you reccomend rods?

i just dont know if its worth it to touch the head (minus a cam)

just give me an idea, or tell me what you are thinking i should do to make 180 or so hp.