Hey guys,
I'm getting ready to buy a decent set of coilovers and I've narrowed it down these 3 choices...My car is daily driven, and my priorities are:
1. Performance (predictable cornering...less body roll...not over or understeer etc.)
2. Ride Quality (i.e. as less bumpy as possible)
3. Reliability (hopefully, they'll last me over 40000 miles)
4. Lightweight
5. Ride Height (I don't want something too low)
6. Price (I believe the Teins are the least expensive...is Zeal or BC worth the extra money)?

Any help is much appreciated...I've searched and looked at the FAQ...I couldn't find much info that relates directly to the question.
THANKS IN ADVANCE

 

if you can afford the P1's
last time I checked they are over 3,000 US

and waaaaay overkill on a street car

 

If you want reliability, with my experience, stay clear of the buddy clubs. I blew mine in less than 2,000 miles. Both rears simply blew up on me.

Save the cash and get some Omnimans.

 

really?
this is the first time I'm hearing about BC going bad

 

Maybe I just got a bunk set, regardless, the spring rates were so horribly stiff that I think it rattled all my fillings loose in my mouth.

 

i don't have personal experience with any of these, but i have pretty much the same requirments for suspension as your looking for and after all my research so far i've decided on the Omniman coilovers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe I just got a bunk set, regardless, the spring rates were so horribly stiff that I think it rattled all my fillings loose in my mouth.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow. It's funny how people can be so different.

I have the BCs and love them. It sucks now that I can't drive the race car on the street as it was fun with that suspension!

 

Zeal B6 has been known to last more than 30,000 miles street/track use. I would recommend 12K-F, 8K-R setup.

mikehonda: who's never had a back ache

 

Thanks for the input guys...seems like omniman or buddy club is a pretty good choice cuz most people here like them

mikehonda, it seems like you have the zeals on your car? how do you like them...care to give a review?

Thanks

 

The RAs are pretty rough....buddy of them had them and I didn't like them at all....

The B6s are also pretty rough with the default rates but seem to ride much better in 6th gen hatches for some reason...?

I have the S6s and I have a love hate relationship with them..... I don't like how Endless USA doesn't give good support or knows much info about their own product. They also ride quite rough and I drive around 604 enough to not like them when the roads turn to crap.....

I tried to get a damper rebuilt and asked them a question about how high of a spring rate I can run ...to which they replied.... "why?"

WTF..... I'm sure it's better now....since a buddy got his B6s rebuilt/revalved but it just kind of struck me to be a little strange.....

I'm almost tempted to try Koni's.......

 

spoon n1 .. n dont forget to make a appointment to your back doctor...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kicker773 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">spoon n1 .. n dont forget to make a appointment to your back doctor...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Spoon N1 tends to ride quite well..... 14k front 12k rear is quite tolerable.... I had those before with 18/16 and that's when it got a bit ridiculous.....


10/8 rides ...dare I say it...better than stock..... but the damper bodies are so short..... any spring softer than 12k in the front results in a pretty low ride height....

 

[QUOTE=RagingAngel]Spoon N1 tends to ride quite well..... 14k front 12k rear is quite tolerable.... I had those before with 18/16 and that's when it got a bit ridiculous.....


10/8 rides ...dare I say it...better than stock..... but the damper bodies are so short..... any spring softer than 12k in the front results in a pretty low ride height....[/QUOTE

i'll keep that in mind

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type-Rare#1248 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mikehonda, it seems like you have the zeals on your car? how do you like them...care to give a review?

Thanks

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've got B6 on the street car (10K-F 8K-R) for awhile now with no problems. S6 is on the "race car" (12K -F 12K-R). They don't make noise or anything, I don't even think about really, except for an adjustment. I've do not know about how the Endless is to deal with, I haven't needed to deal with them (yet). yoshi234, kepani and I forget who else, have been running these for quit sometime now without incident. I'm no authority on coilovers but, I do recommend'em to anyone who wants to buy a good quality coilover.
The ride is "perfect" in the street car. I keep them set at #2-F and #3-R. Not even the ladies complain! The race car is very stiff ride (full cage)

mikehonda: who's just adding a few cents to the shopper

 

mike, thx for the review...glad to hear that B6's are bearable...10k-f 8k-r seems to be a pretty good combination

I've never considered the spoons before but they sound like they are pretty high quality...does anyone know how much a set of those costs and whether they are up to par performance wise?

 

Price would be beyond what you'd expect to pay for a set of B6s.....

The N1s -IMO lack a dust boot which can be purchased seperately from other manufacturers....but otherwise are a very good damper.

Showa still is number 1 in my book....I'm a little biased after owning them..... I just couldn't live with the compromises of a ride height that couldn't really be adjusted for anything but...lower.....and lower....and lower......

 

If you want track proven performance and reliability, KONI yellows + GC, hands down. Even more so if you get the shocks revalved. Plus, you have a much larger choice of springrates with GC. Need I also say that KONI has one of the best technical support teams for aftermarket parts.

 

Yes, I would suggest a long look at Koni/GC also.

 

I had the B6s on the R and loved them. Spring rates were 10K/7K F/R, felt really good all around, on street and track. I'll be getting BC RSDs soon, but on the hatch, so I can SORT OF compare them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RagingAngel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Spoon N1 tends to ride quite well..... 14k front 12k rear is quite tolerable.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's tempting to start up the old USDM vs JDM spring rates ideas again. 14K in the front makes sense for a high performance application, but I'd want stiffer than 14K in the rear to balance it out. Otherwise, we're looking at camber kits and sway bars to keep the car rotating, right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type-Rare#1248 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My car is daily driven, and my priorities are:
1. Performance (predictable cornering...less body roll...not over or understeer etc.)
2. Ride Quality (i.e. as less bumpy as possible)
3. Reliability (hopefully, they'll last me over 40000 miles)
4. Lightweight
5. Ride Height (I don't want something too low)
6. Price (I believe the Teins are the least expensive...is Zeal or BC worth the extra money)?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Based on your priorities, I think you should decide on what spring rates you want to achieve what you want, and then decide the best thing to buy with those spring rates in mind.

Something that has proved very popular in the 8 years we've all been playing with the ITR is a fairly cheap upgrade: 400# Front and 500# Rear, together with decent (but not necessarily expensive) spring dampers.

You could just buy a Ground Control kit and specify the spring rates of 400F/500R, and combine the Ground Control kit with a set of Bilsteins or Koni Yellow.

I really don't think you need to think so much or spend so much money to get out of the car what you're asking about.

 

get the new T1R

 

I had no complaints with BC RS when I had a Hype R. Wouldn't mind trying the P1s but I doubt anyone in the US has 'em yet ($$$$).

Might try Konis with the new car though. If I do decide to mod it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had no complaints with BC RS when I had a Hype R. Wouldn't mind trying the P1s but I doubt anyone in the US has 'em yet ($$$$).

Might try Konis with the new car though. If I do decide to mod it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nobody in the US maybe...but there are a few sets here in Canada....

Probably a very good damper, but I fail to understand the whole 32way adjustable thing..... Spoon Sports Prez, Ichishima-San said it best.... "It's like a TV with so many channels, but nothing good is on...."

I'm no suspension pro.... but can you seriously feel a diff between click number 12 and click number 10??

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's tempting to start up the old USDM vs JDM spring rates ideas again. 14K in the front makes sense for a high performance application, but I'd want stiffer than 14K in the rear to balance it out. Otherwise, we're looking at camber kits and sway bars to keep the car rotating, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think the 22mm rear sway bar is plenty to keep the car rotating....perhaps the cheaper alternative would be to play with toe for one plus getting spacers.

I have noticed a huge difference in the way the car responded after stuffing a 8mm spacer up front and running no spacers in the back.

 

Yeah. The amount of "clicks" is relatively worthless but the aluminum body does sound interesting.