setup- GSR motor


tubular manifold
3" stainless DP

GT2871RS t3t4 drop in with water cooled option

CP pistons 9.8:1
eagle rods
ACL bearings.

AEBS main/head studs
OEM headgasket
GE sleeved 81.5
ported GSR head
ITR valvetrain/cams
HP racing sheetmetal intake manifold
stock GSR TB
DSM 450's
Crome basemap ( been runnin on it before it blew on orig. motor)

SO anyways this was my 1st time building a motor.At first it woudlnt start, i pulled the distrib cap and changed the cap and rotor ( which had a LOT of play)and i diagnosited it to a bad coil. i changed to another good coil and it started up.

i had to work out bugs with CEL's. i kept on having problems with the car warming up and then dying on me itll putter putter and shut off. i noticed a green puddle of fluid under the car. and saw it dripping out of my downpipe.


i did a leak down test and #3 cyl showed a 40% leakdown. took out the head and removed cyl 3 and my ringgaps somehow lined up and was at a thrust point. however the rings looked fine so i just adjusted the positioning and put it back in and put on a new OEM headgasket and put everythign back on. plugged in all the sensors. no CEL.

however my car still ****** putters once it warms up a little. anyone have any clue what it could be? i tried unplugging the IACV and the car reacts to me unplugging it.

i need to get my car running before mase makes the west coast tour and obviously cuz i want my car back already $#*(

thanks guys!


btw when my motor blew i melted cyl 4. might be a bad base, or injector. or timing due to bad cap and rotor.

some eye candy


before i popped the motor










after - repainted n all.










Modified by project dc2 at 5:15 AM 12/7/2004

 

Could be a fuel issue. It could be the simplest bs giving u probs. Check your fuel filter, make sure you hear your fuel pump.. etc...

 

tps is good? compression test?

 

if it was me, id put the stock ecu/ stock injectors in for now. until u can get ALL bugs worked out, and break that motor in that way too....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mase &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it was me, id put the stock ecu/ stock injectors in for now. until u can get ALL bugs worked out, and break that motor in that way too....</TD></TR></TABLE>

hehe only prob with that is my resistor box. but imma see if i can find another connector i got laying aroudn the shop. make it straight plug in style.


after finals imma do that. gonna work on it hardcore to get it done.

 

adjust the idle screw on the throttle body? Throttle cable? Sometimes we over look this little things.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FredoSP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">adjust the idle screw on the throttle body? Throttle cable? Sometimes we over look this little things.</TD></TR></TABLE>


well in a way i dont think they should affectt it right . since i didnt change the stock GSR TB. just put it on another intake manifold.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FredoSP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">adjust the idle screw on the throttle body? Throttle cable? Sometimes we over look this little things.</TD></TR></TABLE>


im also kinda scared to do this cuz it might just be me trying to hide a bigger problem by keeping the idle up right g?

 

what are your a/f readings at idle when warm phil....my car lopes like it has a nice cam in it . just needs tuning.

 

idles fine. small lope. i didnt have this problem before. i built the motor. neither did i have a dsitributor problem .

 

im pretty sure you just need to tune..... actually , if you make my downpipe that will prolly fix it.

 

up

 

THe flow on your new intake manifold is probably messing with the idle. I know my AEBS wouldn't idle until I adjusted the cycle of the IACV (uberdata). DIfferent flow characteristics than a stock manifold at idle. That's my guess...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FredoSP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">adjust the idle screw on the throttle body? Throttle cable? Sometimes we over look this little things.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yulp, i coudln't get my hatch to idle cuz of that screw.. now its only a matter of getting it to idle right with uberdata.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99blusi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THe flow on your new intake manifold is probably messing with the idle. I know my AEBS wouldn't idle until I adjusted the cycle of the IACV (uberdata). DIfferent flow characteristics than a stock manifold at idle. That's my guess...</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Removing your resistor box takes about 15 minutes, It may be annoying to do this and reinstall it again but I think it might be a good idea to get the motor running nicely NA first. I had to remove/reinstall my resistor box twice when I was troubleshooting, annoying but worth it.

 

man .. **** $&@#* ... i put back stock ECU. and injectors. so far no CEL's but im still letting out ******* coolant out of my downpipe.

 

Damn, nice car. Thats a nice looking clean setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man .. **** $&@#* ... i put back stock ECU. and injectors. so far no CEL's but im still letting out ******* coolant out of my downpipe. </TD></TR></TABLE>
is the turbo shiot?

 

I make really good UD basemaps so, if you need one that I guarantee will make the car run LMK and I can e-mail you one. I make them conservative but, they run very well and idle nicely. I get bored and make them for almost every setup imaginable .

Phil

 

possibly

BTW i put back on the stock ECU and injectors. no idling problem. i pulled the spark plugs. no water on em. but i'd imagine it burn off anyways. tomarorw imma wipe everything clean. blow everything out and shove it on the lift and see if it really comes out of the downpipe or elsewhere. if not then * thumbs up*

im going to do another leakdown test. see where that gets me.

 

Okay, looks like your idle problem was caused by the OBD1 conversion...

UD has a slider to adjust the cycle of the IACV, I'm not sure what chrome has. You can always just block off the IACV and ajdust your idle screw up a little bit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99blusi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, looks like your idle problem was caused by the OBD1 conversion...

UD has a slider to adjust the cycle of the IACV, I'm not sure what chrome has. You can always just block off the IACV and ajdust your idle screw up a little bit. </TD></TR></TABLE>


as of yesterday im on stock injectors and ecu. my car is obd I to begin with.

 

OH...okay then...I have no idea now.

 

phil it has to be the intake manifold affecting things. You need to adjust the TB. The awesome intake manifold that I made long ago(that thing was sick, literally ) wouldnt even start. Swap on a stocker, fired up, idled like stock(well, it was stock).