B21A1 Cylinder Honing
I am rebuilding a friends '90 Prelude engine. It has Fibre Reinforced Metal cylinders that require special honing techniques according to two articles found in 'The Wrench'. Here's an exact quote:
Honing Fiber-Reinforced Metal Cylinders
"All S2000s and 1990 and later VTEC and Si Preludes have cylinder liners made with fiber-reinforced metal (FRM). You don.t need to hone FRM cylinder liners unless the cylinder has deep vertical scratches that run the full length of the bore. But if the cylinder liners have light-colored spots or flaking, you must replace the engine
block. If you need to hone FRM cylinder liners, follow these guidelines:
Use only a rigid hone (not a ball hone) with GC-600-J or finer honing stones for nonferrous metals. Make sure you use an oil type honing lubricant.
Keep the pressure between 200 and 300 kPa (2 and 3 kg-cm2, 29 and 43 psi). Hone between 45 and 60 rpm using a 60-degree cross-hatch pattern.
Do not hone more than 20 cycles. Clean the honing stones every five cycles.
After you.re done honing, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal/abrasives. Wash the cylinder bores with hot, soapy water, then dry and oil them immediately. Never use solvent; it will only redistribute the grit on the cylinder walls.
It.s OK to have some light vertical scoring and scratching of the cylinder bores if it isn.t deep enough to catch your fingernail, and if it doesn.t run the full length of the bore. But if the scratches are too deep, bore and hone the cylinders to the next oversize specification. "
My research finds two types of materials used in stone hones: vitrified abrasives and metal bond diamond honing stones. I can't find any reference to hones made for non-ferrous metals.............
I have two hones, a 'bottlebrush' type and a 280 grit stone hone. I know the FRM cylinders have gotten a bad rap. Any forum members have experience with FRM cylinders?
Thank You in Advance,
Mike
Honing Fiber-Reinforced Metal Cylinders
"All S2000s and 1990 and later VTEC and Si Preludes have cylinder liners made with fiber-reinforced metal (FRM). You don.t need to hone FRM cylinder liners unless the cylinder has deep vertical scratches that run the full length of the bore. But if the cylinder liners have light-colored spots or flaking, you must replace the engine
block. If you need to hone FRM cylinder liners, follow these guidelines:
Use only a rigid hone (not a ball hone) with GC-600-J or finer honing stones for nonferrous metals. Make sure you use an oil type honing lubricant.
Keep the pressure between 200 and 300 kPa (2 and 3 kg-cm2, 29 and 43 psi). Hone between 45 and 60 rpm using a 60-degree cross-hatch pattern.
Do not hone more than 20 cycles. Clean the honing stones every five cycles.
After you.re done honing, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal/abrasives. Wash the cylinder bores with hot, soapy water, then dry and oil them immediately. Never use solvent; it will only redistribute the grit on the cylinder walls.
It.s OK to have some light vertical scoring and scratching of the cylinder bores if it isn.t deep enough to catch your fingernail, and if it doesn.t run the full length of the bore. But if the scratches are too deep, bore and hone the cylinders to the next oversize specification. "
My research finds two types of materials used in stone hones: vitrified abrasives and metal bond diamond honing stones. I can't find any reference to hones made for non-ferrous metals.............
I have two hones, a 'bottlebrush' type and a 280 grit stone hone. I know the FRM cylinders have gotten a bad rap. Any forum members have experience with FRM cylinders?
Thank You in Advance,
Mike
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bb_one
Honda Prelude
1
Apr 14, 2005 02:45 PM
bb_one
Tech / Misc
11
Apr 14, 2005 04:38 AM
831100F
Tech / Misc
1
Dec 8, 2004 06:39 AM




