how much is a full b16a1 swap into a crx? (91 HF)
i say anywhere from 1800-2500 depending on parts and labor.
1000-1300 for b16 (complete-harness,ecu,axles,tranny)
350-550 for mounts (hasport,hcp,placec racing)
labor is anywhere from 400-700 dedepending on who you take it 2
1000-1300 for b16 (complete-harness,ecu,axles,tranny)
350-550 for mounts (hasport,hcp,placec racing)
labor is anywhere from 400-700 dedepending on who you take it 2
Full swap...motor, tranny, ecu, harness, axles = 1100-1400
Mount kit = 410 for HCP mount kit with linkage
Radiator hoses, misc = 75
Labor = Do it yourself
Wiring = Add 4 wires
Price = 1585 - 1885
Mount kit = 410 for HCP mount kit with linkage
Radiator hoses, misc = 75
Labor = Do it yourself
Wiring = Add 4 wires
Price = 1585 - 1885
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I've been lurking on the BBs and doing research via web sites for a couple of months now trying to determine the appropriate upgrade for my 91 CRX (DX). I narrowed it down to three options: B16A, ZC, or MiniMe. Cost was only one of the factors I considered, but here's what I came up with (these priced do NOT include labor... parts ONLY.
B16A:
Engine - $950 ($850 + 100 ship)
ECU (ZDyne reprogram) - $375
HSAport harness conversion, motor mounts, shift linkage & AC bracket - $1,150
Clutch - $500
Water pump, plugs/wires, belts - $240
Other misc. parts, hardware, fluids - $50 (at least)
B16A TOTAL = $3,265
ZC:
Engine - $600 ($500 + ship)
ECU (PM6/7) - $100
HSAport harness conversion - $200
Clutch - $450
Throttle cable, Water pump, plugs/wires, belts - $255
Other misc. parts, hardware, fluids - $50 (at least)
ZC TOTAL = $1,655
MiniMe:
Cylinder Head - $200
ECU (ZDyne reprogram) - $375
HSAport harness conversion - $200
Metal Head Gasket, $200
Water pump, plugs/wires, belts - $240
Other misc. parts, hardware, fluids - $50 (at least)
MiniMe TOTAL = $1,265
B16A:
Engine - $950 ($850 + 100 ship)
ECU (ZDyne reprogram) - $375
HSAport harness conversion, motor mounts, shift linkage & AC bracket - $1,150
Clutch - $500
Water pump, plugs/wires, belts - $240
Other misc. parts, hardware, fluids - $50 (at least)
B16A TOTAL = $3,265
ZC:
Engine - $600 ($500 + ship)
ECU (PM6/7) - $100
HSAport harness conversion - $200
Clutch - $450
Throttle cable, Water pump, plugs/wires, belts - $255
Other misc. parts, hardware, fluids - $50 (at least)
ZC TOTAL = $1,655
MiniMe:
Cylinder Head - $200
ECU (ZDyne reprogram) - $375
HSAport harness conversion - $200
Metal Head Gasket, $200
Water pump, plugs/wires, belts - $240
Other misc. parts, hardware, fluids - $50 (at least)
MiniMe TOTAL = $1,265
Cost me $3400 (self-installed) but that was with replacing:
Stock exhaust manifold ----> DC 4-1 SS Header
Stock Clutch/ P. Plate ----> ACT eXtreme 6 puck kit
Stock Intake ----> AEM CAI
Stock Brakes ----> Integra/ Civic setup
Water Pump, Timing Belt, All hoses...
So I guess around $2000 is about right, if you don't replace anything... then again, the clutch is a good idea to do, because the engine is already out.
Stock exhaust manifold ----> DC 4-1 SS Header
Stock Clutch/ P. Plate ----> ACT eXtreme 6 puck kit
Stock Intake ----> AEM CAI
Stock Brakes ----> Integra/ Civic setup
Water Pump, Timing Belt, All hoses...
So I guess around $2000 is about right, if you don't replace anything... then again, the clutch is a good idea to do, because the engine is already out.
B16A:
Engine - $950 ($850 + 100 ship)
ECU (ZDyne reprogram) - $375
HSAport harness conversion, motor mounts, shift linkage & AC bracket - $1,150
Clutch - $500
Water pump, plugs/wires, belts - $240
Other misc. parts, hardware, fluids - $50 (at least)
B16A TOTAL = $3,265
Engine - $950 ($850 + 100 ship)
ECU (ZDyne reprogram) - $375
HSAport harness conversion, motor mounts, shift linkage & AC bracket - $1,150
Clutch - $500
Water pump, plugs/wires, belts - $240
Other misc. parts, hardware, fluids - $50 (at least)
B16A TOTAL = $3,265
Clutch = 375 max
Dx to B16a wiring by me = 150
Mount kit and linkage = 410
Savings from your prices = 515
Happy Shopping
Do the labor and you'll have something to brag about when you win the race. I know opinions are like ********, but imho, there is no bragging rights when you win a race with a swap you didn't do unless you did some serious out driving. If you're not interested in the work and just interested in laying down money and going fast, why not buy a fast car. 99.99999% of the enjoyment is the work and the payoff. Paying for a swap is like driving an automatic. Its easy but no fun and it is for the NON-enthusiast. I'm not trying to offend anyone... just encourage you to do the work and save the money and actually have something to be proud of in the end. I obviously used the time I should have spent in an English class doing my swap!
Really though. You can do it the right way, or the senseable way.
When I did my ZC many moons ago it was as follows...
Motor $525 ($399 + shipping)
Timing Belt $35
Cap and Wires $60 because they were too damaged to use.
Antifreeze and oil/filter $35 max
The motor is still together and strong. Don't worry about the water pump unless you know it needs done. Do wiring yourself. That's what junk yards are for... extra unused wires and stuff. Buy some used spindles off of someone who upgraded to EX.
IMO people spend too much money on preventative crap that might not/probably won't need done. There is a saying about crossing a bridge when you come to it. It worked for me. I can't see spending $1000+ on a ZC swap. It isn't worth it.
How about all of that ranting. Warning, don't take my advice if you can't laugh at yourself when the water pump goes bad a week after you decided not to replace it or the head gasket leaks once the motor is in. That's the fun part of it all.
End of story.
Really though. You can do it the right way, or the senseable way.
When I did my ZC many moons ago it was as follows...
Motor $525 ($399 + shipping)
Timing Belt $35
Cap and Wires $60 because they were too damaged to use.
Antifreeze and oil/filter $35 max
The motor is still together and strong. Don't worry about the water pump unless you know it needs done. Do wiring yourself. That's what junk yards are for... extra unused wires and stuff. Buy some used spindles off of someone who upgraded to EX.
IMO people spend too much money on preventative crap that might not/probably won't need done. There is a saying about crossing a bridge when you come to it. It worked for me. I can't see spending $1000+ on a ZC swap. It isn't worth it.
How about all of that ranting. Warning, don't take my advice if you can't laugh at yourself when the water pump goes bad a week after you decided not to replace it or the head gasket leaks once the motor is in. That's the fun part of it all.
End of story.
thanks for the input and therealciviczc i was planning on doin the swap myself. i hear yah on the whole comarrason in its like driving an automatic...thank a lot guys
yup i agree.. i got bragging rights. i did my own swap everytime the motor blew, i painted my own car and had some vato's do the body work. and the whole car was assembled by me. saves a whole **** load on labor.
I may have gone off the deep end about preventative stuff. I'm just trying to say don't sweat that stuff too much. You don't need to replace every bolt, nut, gasket, cap, bearing, and sleeve to have done a decent swap that will run like a champ. Go with what you can afford and enjoy it!
Good luck.
Good luck.
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joey1320
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Feb 17, 2003 01:25 PM



thats a great help....i guess no b16 for me....can someone please help me out though???



