I thought I'd share this since I know many of you make your own exhausts and this is a pretty cool and easy to fab design IMO. Took me no more the 20min to make after planning it out in my head on the way to napa to get bolts. This is very easy to take apart and install.

I had all the exhaust parts except for two 3" flanges for attaching the rear section. I decided to try using a 3" ID flare coupling from carquest or something, it had been in the scrap bin forever. I made some sleeves and spacers to weld on to the pipes and bought some 80mm x8 bolts and locknuts (not sure if the nylocs will last, we'll see!). The sleeves are 5/8" hydraulic pipe and the spacers are 1/4" square stock. This gives perfect clearance to swing a gear wrench easily . It ended up sealing much better than I thought probably due to the nice cut the bandsaw makes and a little finishing work with a file. I did not tighten the hardware very tight and it seems to hold pressure nicely and is a very rigid connection. This is a lighter joint than stamped flanges too






Modified by Bailhatch at 7:27 PM 3/11/2005

 

thanks for sharing. simple enough and easy...seems like it would seal good. i think i'll have to try that out sometime.

 

looks good. that method is used on high quality headers quiet often, or a similar style with springs. looks good, nice and compact for the low clearance areas! thanks for the sharing!

 

Man, i love this forum.

 

This is the kind of **** that happpens when bailhatch gets bored. lol. its cold out, and with no cable he must go down into the sop and tinker. this is good stuff, i'll try it on my exh. system when i get my car boosted (that is, if i decide to run an exh, system

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RenoRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks good. that method is used on high quality headers quiet often, or a similar style with springs. looks good, nice and compact for the low clearance areas! thanks for the sharing!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ya, that's where I stole the idea from. I was just surprised how great it sealed and how strong it is just using one of the shittiest quality flares I have seen. It's amazing what they sell at those auto parts stores but i gotta work with what i have.

 

i like the idea

 

Great idea! How did you get the slip-fit to fit so well?

 

he got them at a autozone/krage/pepboys type place. you'll see them. most of the time it's a struggle to get the pipe to slide in so you'll know its a tight seal!

 

nice idea

 

I have seen this before when I went to get my car dyno'd. The owner raced Itr's and had several in his shop. All of his exhuast work was done this way. He said it solves the problems of parts breaking b/c they give more.

Well done...look good....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRex91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great idea! How did you get the slip-fit to fit so well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well thats the thing this was a REALLY shitty one. it slides in very easily. As far as making it seal correctly, I used a horizontal bandsaw to make a perfect 90* cut and just de-bured it with a file. nothing fancy.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RenoRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he got them at a autozone/krage/pepboys type place. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, I think this happend to be a CarQuest one if I remember the smoldering sticker correctly. The flared part on this one seemed kinda short too, maybe that's what made it fit so easily.

 

or how about an even quicker disconted system with out using expensive v bands .. thes bike wheel quick lock bolts? anyone know what im talking about .. the bolts that have that flap u pull over to tighten it down . ..

 

if you could find some metal wheel bolts from a bike type app. thatd be tight.

 

"I can change out my rear section in 26sec, whats up now! "

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo gli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or how about an even quicker disconted system with out using expensive v bands .. thes bike wheel quick lock bolts? anyone know what im talking about .. the bolts that have that flap u pull over to tighten it down . .. </TD></TR></TABLE>

quick release, seems like it could work, but i dont think it would ever get as tight as using a conventional style bolt/nut combo.

 

well the bike quick disconect syle bolts u dont need any tools .. and they can get just as thight as other bolt nut combos .. it was just mearly a suggestion .. .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo gli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well the bike quick disconect syle bolts u dont need any tools .. and they can get just as thight as other bolt nut combos .. it was just mearly a suggestion .. . </TD></TR></TABLE>

never thought about that one . that also would be cool. actually they can get pretty damn tight. tight cuz you adjust it and gets even tighter once you lock it, i see exactly what you are talking about (mountain bike seatposts and wheel locks)...yeah probably quickest release and no tools only your digits.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by not so civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">never thought about that one . that also would be cool. actually they can get pretty damn tight. tight cuz you adjust it and gets even tighter once you lock it, i see exactly what you are talking about (mountain bike seatposts and wheel locks)...yeah probably quickest release and no tools only your digits.</TD></TR></TABLE>


thank you .. u see im not the only one .. these would be way fast .. but only thing i see being a prob when fabing is the part u pull over to tighten is about 2.5/3 inch .. so u would need to have that much from the pipe to be able to turn it .. also some i think use a nylon or rubber bushing on the "cam" part of the bolt .. thoes would prob melt .. u would need the ones with a metal bushing ..
somthing like these .. in diff sizes ext .. make some tabs like bailhatch did but so when u loosen the fap the bolt can be completley removed .. and ther not to expensive either .. and cromoly .. oooo .. figure like 5-10 a pair on ebay

 

$5-10 a pair gets expensive quick for simple couplers for your exhaust system though...

 

well, you shouldnt need more than 3 or 4 for an exhaust system, dp to cat/testpipe, testpipe to midpipe, midpipe to muffler/rear section,

 

I like my $1.85 bolts and nuts since I see no need to remove exhaust parts THAT fast. simple is better when I build **** for your car.

 

lol, true. i just got my red tial wg in the mail and i must say it looks like teh hotness on your mani

 

PICS!

you have your turbo on it yet?

 

lol, not yet, i can take a few pics with the wg and the turbine housing if you want, i havent put the turbo back together yet so im probably gonna put it back together and sell it and buy someumbup:thing bigger. i hopefully get my charge pipes later this week, :th