I just bought this car from Florida two weeks ago, and this morning, it wouldn't start. It was sitting outside all night, which was about 15-20 degrees. It cranked and started for a second, but then died. I tried cranking it again, but it just wouldn't fire. I just got home a few minutes ago, and tried starting it again, and it started right up just fine. Granted, its about 40 degrees now, but I'm not sure if it was due to the weather, because the S-10 pickup and Accord in the driveway started up just fine. Do you think I should add some HEET to the gas tank? Or possibly some fuel injector cleaner?

 

Ya through in some dry gas that sounds like what it would be ........ that is exacly what i was thinkin
u should also get ur antifreeze checked to it wouldnt hurt so u dont crack ur block...... Peace out

 

Well, the previous owner had the radiator and fluid recently changed, so I don't think that would be the problem.

 

As I was driving home on the freeway, the car felt like it misfired at one point. When I pressed on the gas, it felt like the fuel cut off(like when you go past redline). I just added some fuel injector cleaner, so hopefully that'll help.

 

just give it a tuneup cheif, my ma's car ran like **** until i threw some plugs, wires, cap and rotor in, run good gas and change the oil, yur set

 

I did a tuneup last week. Maybe its a bad injector I'm thinking.

 

maybe, take em out and service them

 

Okay today, I tried starting it again to Seafoam the motor, and it wouldn't start. I tried cranking it three different times, and it finally started on the 3rd try. It idles fine, and we put the Seafoam in. My friend and I started driving it through the neighborhood, and again, when I pressed the gas to the floor, it bogged forward(like when your fuel cuts off at redline). I let off the gas, then I pressed down to the ground again, and it bogged again. This time, it stopped accelerating altogether. The car just started decelerating until it died completely. I had it towed back to my house, and I checked the ignitor and coil. According to the Helms book, the voltage was correct on the ignitor. According to the book, my coil wasn't reading correctly. How much does a new coil cost?

 

OK, I had the same problem on my Integra. It would intermittently just cut out. FOr me it was a combination of a bad contacts on the secondary coil contact and a loose ignitor wire.

I'm not sure what your coil costs but I've seen them for as low as $40 -$50 if you shop around. Good luck. Make sure your contacts on the coil are fine before you go out and buy a new coil. For me, I just had to sandpaper the contact points down and the car ran fine.

 

I just pulled the plug and wire, and I'm not getting any spark.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E Swift &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just pulled the plug and wire, and I'm not getting any spark. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How are you testing for spark?

Also, what's the year and trim of your car? Some Integra's have updated ignitors.

 

oem coil is usualy around 80$, and the aftermarket (beck/arnley) isnt far behind it. i would personaly do the aftermarket one with lifetime warranty if it was me.

or if you plan on any mods to the car you could do a msd coil and cap set for about 70$

 

After the car died, would It even turn over?

 

I pulled the plug and wire off of cylinder #1, inserted the plug into the wire, touched the threads of the plug to a ground, and cranked the motor. If there's spark, it would have shown it.

After it died, it doesn't fire anymore. It just cranks and cranks.

 

It may be your Main RELAY.

Try this http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howt...y.htm

Hope this helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeithsDAteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It may be your Main RELAY.

Try this http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howt...y.htm

Hope this helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

At his first post I thought Main Relay also, but further down you find out that it's not. Your main relay controls fuel. He's getting no spark.

Keith, In the early year Integras, 1992-1996 there was an OBD update along with updated part numbers for the Ignitors. If you have not updated the ignitor it may be your problem. Do you have a friend close by that would let you borrow the ignitor to test out. It's definitely something electrical because it's not consistent. If you have replaced, cap, wires, plugs, and rotor button then test the coil and ignitor.

 

The primary winding resistance on the coil was reading .0008 ohms(should be between .6-.8 ohms). The secondary winding resistance was reading around 15,500-16,000 ohms(should be between 12,000-19,200 depending on temperature).

What should the voltage be reading on each wire when checking the ignitor? The book just says that there should be voltage. If not, replace it. I checked each wire, and it was reading like 1-2 volts I believe. Is that what it should be reading?

 

Could it be one of the three sensors?

 

I have no input on what is wrong with it, Just wanted to say hi. Good to see you got a integra again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E Swift &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The primary winding resistance on the coil was reading .0008 ohms(should be between .6-.8 ohms). The secondary winding resistance was reading around 15,500-16,000 ohms(should be between 12,000-19,200 depending on temperature).

What should the voltage be reading on each wire when checking the ignitor? The book just says that there should be voltage. If not, replace it. I checked each wire, and it was reading like 1-2 volts I believe. Is that what it should be reading?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd replace that coil. Not only that it's way cheaper than the ignitor.

 

Yes, you primary input coil sounds like too low resistance. Probably a partial short in the windings or bad contact. Pick another coil up at Autozone or Advance if you have those 2 around you. Last time I checked they were like $40-50. You can order the parts online too at :

http://www.autozone.com
http://www.advanceautoparts.com

Also, the other member is correct about the ignitor issue. Someone replaced it on a recall on my 1989 Integra LS. But as I mentioned, they forgot to put one of the wires in a retaining clip. This small issue caused my car to repeatedly miss and stall out. Make sure you double check (ohm out) the ignitor and all contacts.

Check spark with an inline spark tester. You can buy them at Harbor Freight for $1.99. DOn't waste your time trying to see the spark fire as the ground might not be strong enough to allow for a spark to be produced. Spark voltage is usually 20,000-40,000 volts. Don't try to measure it. Just look for flash of the light bulb in the inline spark tester and you will know you have good spark. The best $1.99 I ever spent!

 

Napa has the coil for $85 in stock.

 

you need to get that running instead of driving the "moogen" s10 lol.. give acura a call tomorrow to find out how much it is. i might be able to get it for a little cheaper for you...

 

Acura wants $107.97 for the ignitor and $101.05 for the coil. Both parts are in stock. So for an extra $15, I can get an OEM coil instead of a NAPA coil. Is it worth it?

 

if i were u after buying a car ill change these ff: distributor cap, spark plugs, spark plug wires, oil change, flush coolant, change timing belt if its more than 100K miles.. these basic tune up will help ur car life