165 whp
115 torque

Here's my set up:
2nd gen b16a
port n polish
3 angle valve job
shaved .020"
crane stage 2 cams
crane dual valve springs
crane ti retainers
ferrea valve locks
adjustable cam gears
bone stock bottom end
vafc2
generic CAI
dc 4-1 header
2 1/4" pipe with magnaflow muffler

This was done on a dynojet that of course everyone says reads low.
How do i get rid of that huge dip in power between 3500-4500?
Do i need an aftermarket intake manifold/throttle body to help out up top? It seems to flatten out at 7500rpm.

Anyways these are pretty typical #'s for my set up eh?
? ?


Modified by zman at 9:30 PM 12/16/2005

 

Nice #'s but i think there could be some more power

 

not bad, my buddy had a b16 with p&p, toda b's, toda valvesprings, ctr's, toda cam gears, he made 161 106 prolly a weak motor though. possible knock activity, try changing plugs. not bad though. good luck

Shaun

 

Also, when i got my car back from being tuned it idles like a bag of ****.
It bogs so bad that it wants to stall. When stopped i have to give it gas just so it idles. Before the tune i just leaned out the fuel at idle and it fluctuated a bit, but now it barely runs....pulls hard when i am rippin but idles like a bag.
He mentioned that maybe it was my o2, but my ecu is chipped b/c the knock sensor was broken, so the CEL won't come on if something were wrong.
Will a faulty o2 sensor cause a bad idle?

 

I think that seems a little low for the mods u have done, especially if u have a 2nd gen b16a motor. Look @ my #'s in my sign, I consider my #'s above average for my setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, when i got my car back from being tuned it idles like a bag of ****.
It bogs so bad that it wants to stall. When stopped i have to give it gas just so it idles. Before the tune i just leaned out the fuel at idle and it fluctuated a bit, but now it barely runs....pulls hard when i am rippin but idles like a bag.
He mentioned that maybe it was my o2, but my ecu is chipped b/c the knock sensor was broken, so the CEL won't come on if something were wrong.
Will a faulty o2 sensor cause a bad idle?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It sure could

 

dynojet doesn't read lower.. it's all relative... mustang dyno reads even lower, dynapack reads higher than the 2...

 

Andrew, i'll help you. check your TCC pm.


Modified by B16C1 at 10:34 PM 12/2/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nvmyb20hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not bad, my buddy had a b16 with p&p, toda b's, toda valvesprings, ctr's, toda cam gears, he made 161 106 prolly a weak motor though. possible knock activity, try changing plugs. not bad though. good luck

Shaun</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know why your boys motor seems weak, its because he's running ctr's and toda b's.

 

I think you can get more hp with better tuning.

For reference, I got 157hp from my b16a1 w/ only i/h/e, im, tb, pulley. No cams, No headwork, 10.2:1 compression, 1.75" chambered axleback, 8k rev limit, faulty b&m fpr.

It also sounds like you need to work on part throttle mapping as well.

 

you can definitely get more out of that setup. that head has a lot of potential. You need more tuning, but you won't be able to extract the power you can get with just a VAFC.

you're probably idling like crap because you have a lot of overlap dialed into those cams. What you would normally do is advance the timing at idle, but you can't do that with a VAFC. either move the exhaust cam to 0 or get some tools to tune the timing maps.

s

 

great number

i have a 170 whp b16 bone stock bottom end with itr cam...ect

i think that a im will be a great purchase because your cam will need it
my 0.02 c

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> How do i get rid of that huge dip in power between 3500-4500?
Do i need an aftermarket intake manifold/throttle body to help out up top? It seems to flatten out at 7500rpm.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i had the same exact dip in my powerband and I've noticed it on other b16's. I'm convinced it's the b16 mani/tb combo. The power topping out at 7500rpm is also a function of the manifold I believe. I had S2S1 cams and my power band was finished by 7800, which is right where the stock redline is near. So i think with an better IM you'll pull farther up the powerband. But you might lose midrange as a result. I didn't worry about it on mine cause I was getting 117ft/lbs of tq so I was happy with that and didn't want to lose it. I didn't tune mine to it's potential either so that dip might be able to be tuned out, but I couldn't get rid of it. I didn't play around enough with my timing maps when I had my b16a though.

s

 

Nice numbers.

Looks similar to mine.

You're just making a little bit more torque.

 

I've seen similar numbers with PCT cams.
What are the specs of the cams you're using?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flesh199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 170 whp b16 bone stock bottom end with itr cam...ect
</TD></TR></TABLE>

170hp and 114ft/lbs are great numbers.

Are you using only ITR intake cam? Mind sharing your setup?

 

Here's the specs on the cams:
http://www.cranecams.com/?show...-0012

I've been looking into gettin a ported p30 IM and a 64mm t/b. This should help my top end a bit right? Or should i just get an aftermarket IM? If so, which one?

 

ITR IM, better header, and bigger exhaust will definitely smooth out the curve and pull out more power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've been looking into gettin a ported p30 IM and a 64mm t/b. This should help my top end a bit right? Or should i just get an aftermarket IM? If so, which one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you could lose mid range with a different IM. I would invest more in some sort of engine tuning such as hondata, uberdata, crome, etc. chip the ecu, have it tuned more. i wouldn't just dump more money into parts right now. get the most out of what you've got, then see if you want to go further. why bother getting better parts if you're only getting 85-90% of the potential of the parts you have?

s

 

I totally agree with the above post.
You definatelly need tuning.
Also I would do a compression test.

 

I too have noticed that dip in the powerband between 3500-4500rpm. I was never able to get rid of it, just decrease the severity of it.

 

That’s weird because my 00 si stock with a peiced t3t4 kit put out 267 hp and 181tq bone stock. With the turbo which is prolly a cheap eBay turbo. Car still runs been that way since 03. I know 267 isn’t high by far but bro I got a fmu. For y’all who don’t it’s a dinky looking sandwich plate thingamabob to stabilize the fuel. This was wen they didnt know to much about boost. Though my pieced turbo kit put out more than the greedy , revhard, the apexi every turbo kit that came out around the same time in 03-04. My hp numbers were unheard of at the time. Meanwhile I’m like so is 267 hp good or junk. Stock Ecu, upgraded fuel pump and a vafc2 meter is all I had to tune with. Which as I know now there’s not much tuning you can do with a vafc. The only similarity we share is the huge dip at 35-45k mines was on a winpep Dyno still got the chart if you don’t believe me. Apparently not much other tuners would have the same results with what they had to work with. Now it’s like 267 hp what do you got an hondata s300 and 1000cc injectors. Not to mention the many different snail trim you can get for your application. I do live in Hawaii so sea level atmospheric pressure. Oh and I was running pump gas and the stock clutch was shot after the tuner took my car off the Dyno and did a few burn outs. My tuner also had the fastest 4cylinder in the state at the time. I’m not sure if that means anything but I’m putting that out there. Oops it was on a 7psi set spring wastegate and no boost controller. Sorry I’m new here and didn’t realize I added turbo talk to a n/a thread. My apologies

 

I think you got great numbers out of your B16A considering what you have to tune it. My question is: What does all this that you posted have to do with a NATURALLY ASPIRATED B16A thread ??? You should have posted your own thread and bragged about your car in the "Forced Induction" sub-forum and not "Necro-Bumped" a 17 year old dead thread.

Welcome to the forum rookie.