euro r redline?
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From: columbus, ms, usa
euro r redline?
i have just ordered my euro r swap for my 99 accord and i cant find out what the motor redlines out at. i have found all other specs but any help with this will be appreciated. thanks
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
Re: euro r redline? (fw190bvi)
my euro-r redlines at round 7400-7600 depending which gear you are in.
but looking at my dynosheet the power reached it's peak at 7600rpm and dropped a tiny bit at 7800rpm.
Good choice of engine btw
but looking at my dynosheet the power reached it's peak at 7600rpm and dropped a tiny bit at 7800rpm.
Good choice of engine btw
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From: Glen Cove/Richmond, NY/VA
Re: euro r redline? (TakeiTeg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TakeiTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good choice of engine btw
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah nice H22.
Good choice of engine btw
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah nice H22.
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From: North Carolina
Re: euro r redline? (TakeiTeg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TakeiTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good choice of engine btw
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have to disagree. It is a great engine (especially if your car came with it from the factory, as I suspect yours did since you're in New Zealand) but it is ridiculously expensive compared to the JDM H22. Why would you spend $3200-4000 when you can get an H22 for $2K??? You'd be well on your way to a turbo setup with the cash saved buying a JDM H
Good choice of engine btw
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have to disagree. It is a great engine (especially if your car came with it from the factory, as I suspect yours did since you're in New Zealand) but it is ridiculously expensive compared to the JDM H22. Why would you spend $3200-4000 when you can get an H22 for $2K??? You'd be well on your way to a turbo setup with the cash saved buying a JDM H
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From: Glen Cove/Richmond, NY/VA
Re: euro r redline? (JDMAccord2nr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMAccord2nr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but it is ridiculously expensive compared to the JDM H22. Why would you spend $3200-4000 when you can get an H22 for $2K??? You'd be well on your way to a turbo setup with the cash saved buying a JDM H </TD></TR></TABLE>
Very true.
but it is ridiculously expensive compared to the JDM H22. Why would you spend $3200-4000 when you can get an H22 for $2K??? You'd be well on your way to a turbo setup with the cash saved buying a JDM H
</TD></TR></TABLE>Very true.
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From: PA
Re: euro r redline? (TakeiTeg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TakeiTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my euro-r redlines at round 7400-7600 depending which gear you are in.
but looking at my dynosheet the power reached it's peak at 7600rpm and dropped a tiny bit at 7800rpm.
Good choice of engine btw
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It shouldn't depend on what gear you're in...a redline is a redline...read your cluster. Where does the red start? That's your redline.
but looking at my dynosheet the power reached it's peak at 7600rpm and dropped a tiny bit at 7800rpm.
Good choice of engine btw
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It shouldn't depend on what gear you're in...a redline is a redline...read your cluster. Where does the red start? That's your redline.
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From: Houston, TX
Re: euro r redline? (Justin Klemgold)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Justin Klemgold »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It shouldn't depend on what gear you're in...a redline is a redline...read your cluster. Where does the red start? That's your redline.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, if it's anything like the last USDM prelude (98+), the tach is a little slow in keeping up with the actual rpms, which means you could hit the rev limiter at different readings from the tach. that could be reason for the perceived changing redline.
It shouldn't depend on what gear you're in...a redline is a redline...read your cluster. Where does the red start? That's your redline.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, if it's anything like the last USDM prelude (98+), the tach is a little slow in keeping up with the actual rpms, which means you could hit the rev limiter at different readings from the tach. that could be reason for the perceived changing redline.
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From: PA
Re: euro r redline? (philadd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well, if it's anything like the last USDM prelude (98+), the tach is a little slow in keeping up with the actual rpms, which means you could hit the rev limiter at different readings from the tach. that could be reason for the perceived changing redline.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The tach is not at all accurate and does not depict redline. The ECU has the redline programmed into it...the tachs on hondas are notorious for being inaccurate. So, in essence, the redline never changes...you just think it does.
I would try to avoid hitting the rev limiter. That's not very wise.
well, if it's anything like the last USDM prelude (98+), the tach is a little slow in keeping up with the actual rpms, which means you could hit the rev limiter at different readings from the tach. that could be reason for the perceived changing redline.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The tach is not at all accurate and does not depict redline. The ECU has the redline programmed into it...the tachs on hondas are notorious for being inaccurate. So, in essence, the redline never changes...you just think it does.
I would try to avoid hitting the rev limiter. That's not very wise.
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From: Midlothian, Va, 23113
Re: euro r redline? (Justin Klemgold)
correct me if im wrong, but i believe it redlines at 7800 rpms. im not 100% sure tho. buy a VAFC and i gurantee you that redline doesnt change rpms in any gear.
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From: anaheim, ca, usa
Re: euro r redline? (AVcTcEoCrd)
screw the h22 id get this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33615 very unique
very unique
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From: Midlothian, Va, 23113
Re: euro r redline? (vizion22)
well whatever<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vizion22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33615 </TD></TR></TABLE> is, the link didnt work. so i'd stick with euro R
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From: Houston, TX
Re: euro r redline? (Justin Klemgold)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Justin Klemgold »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The tach is not at all accurate and does not depict redline. The ECU has the redline programmed into it...the tachs on hondas are notorious for being inaccurate. So, in essence, the redline never changes...you just think it does.
I would try to avoid hitting the rev limiter. That's not very wise.</TD></TR></TABLE>
isn't that basically what i said?
The tach is not at all accurate and does not depict redline. The ECU has the redline programmed into it...the tachs on hondas are notorious for being inaccurate. So, in essence, the redline never changes...you just think it does.
I would try to avoid hitting the rev limiter. That's not very wise.</TD></TR></TABLE>
isn't that basically what i said?
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From: anaheim, ca, usa
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: columbus, ms, usa
i chose the euro r swap just for the fact that i know what it is and there are not that many out there that i know of. i thought about either putting a turbo on my f23 or getting a f20b but decided not to.
my car as sits is a 99 4door auto and this swap converts to 5sp, lsd, mounts, ecu, cables, motor, trans, and a couple other peices which is still more than what i would get from buying a h22 so it does balance cost to a degree
my car as sits is a 99 4door auto and this swap converts to 5sp, lsd, mounts, ecu, cables, motor, trans, and a couple other peices which is still more than what i would get from buying a h22 so it does balance cost to a degree
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From: Michigan State University, USA
Re: euro r redline? (vizion22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vizion22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JDM F20B SIR-T DOHC VTEC
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33615</TD></TR></TABLE>
that engine is a bit overrated here in the states IMO...h22 is cheaper, makes more power, has greater displacement, has ALOT more aftermarket support (especially state side).....even the seller on that EBAY thing is retarded....the euro-r has the h22, not f20
if you wanna be cool and JDM, yet you want to have power, just pick up an f22b and boost it....their cheap as hell
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33615</TD></TR></TABLE>
that engine is a bit overrated here in the states IMO...h22 is cheaper, makes more power, has greater displacement, has ALOT more aftermarket support (especially state side).....even the seller on that EBAY thing is retarded....the euro-r has the h22, not f20
if you wanna be cool and JDM, yet you want to have power, just pick up an f22b and boost it....their cheap as hell
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From: columbus, ms, usa
im not trying to build a fast car i just want it to be decent. how is a f22b a big jdm motor when the h22 euro r motor is rare and makes more then any other stock honda motor with exections to the k series (220hp and 163 tq) this is a true R motor setup and f20b is 200hp and 153tq. the reason im getting this is not to build for serious power to for what is supposed to be in my car. the only other mods to it will proboly be msd
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From: Olathe, KS, 66061
Re: euro r redline? (vizion22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vizion22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JDM F20B SIR-T DOHC VTEC
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33615</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not to mention you're spending that much for an automatic, screw that!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33615</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not to mention you're spending that much for an automatic, screw that!
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From: Michigan State University, USA
Re: (ifeldwn02)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ifeldwn02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not trying to build a fast car i just want it to be decent. how is a f22b a big jdm motor when the h22 euro r motor is rare and makes more then any other stock honda motor with exections to the k series (220hp and 163 tq) this is a true R motor setup and f20b is 200hp and 153tq. the reason im getting this is not to build for serious power to for what is supposed to be in my car. the only other mods to it will proboly be msd</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually, when you get a complete h22a swap from a reputable online source, youll get EVERYTHING for around 2.5k.....honestly dude, your wasting your money....just get an h22a w/ lsd, throw on the euro-r ITM, jun cams, bolt ons, and your making as much power as teh euro r.....
actually, when you get a complete h22a swap from a reputable online source, youll get EVERYTHING for around 2.5k.....honestly dude, your wasting your money....just get an h22a w/ lsd, throw on the euro-r ITM, jun cams, bolt ons, and your making as much power as teh euro r.....
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
Re: (fw190bvi)
just to clear things
SiR-T = manual only = 200hp
SiR = auto only = 180hp
if it's a SiR-T auto then it's not a SiR-T.
Ido agree with getting cheaper h22a with LSD and then dumping parts into it.
I used the euro-r h22a because I had a wrecked euro-r.
SiR-T = manual only = 200hp
SiR = auto only = 180hp
if it's a SiR-T auto then it's not a SiR-T.
Ido agree with getting cheaper h22a with LSD and then dumping parts into it.
I used the euro-r h22a because I had a wrecked euro-r.
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From: Michigan State University, USA
Re: (TakeiTeg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TakeiTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just to clear things
SiR-T = manual only = 200hp
SiR = auto only = 180hp
if it's a SiR-T auto then it's not a SiR-T.
Ido agree with getting cheaper h22a with LSD and then dumping parts into it.
I used the euro-r h22a because I had a wrecked euro-r. </TD></TR></TABLE>
and because you live in ******* australia and so you get all teh goood c4rs!!!
SiR-T = manual only = 200hp
SiR = auto only = 180hp
if it's a SiR-T auto then it's not a SiR-T.
Ido agree with getting cheaper h22a with LSD and then dumping parts into it.
I used the euro-r h22a because I had a wrecked euro-r.
</TD></TR></TABLE>and because you live in ******* australia and so you get all teh goood c4rs!!!
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From: Glen Cove/Richmond, NY/VA
Re: (TakeiTeg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TakeiTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ido agree with getting cheaper h22a with LSD and then dumping parts into it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ido agree with getting cheaper h22a with LSD and then dumping parts into it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: NORCAL, USA
Re: (v4lu3s)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">teh redline is a mark on the tach gauge, and it will occur usually about 100-200 rpm short of the REVLIMIT.</TD></TR></TABLE>
?? redline is a oil. and a movie about pacific WWII. clifford is a big red dog.
?? redline is a oil. and a movie about pacific WWII. clifford is a big red dog.
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
Re: (fw190bvi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and because you live in ******* australia and so you get all teh goood c4rs!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
New Zealand to be exact, lucky i'm not in ******* australia, aftermarket parts and everything there is pretty much illegal.
and because you live in ******* australia and so you get all teh goood c4rs!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
New Zealand to be exact, lucky i'm not in ******* australia, aftermarket parts and everything there is pretty much illegal.