I think the timing belt was installed wrong and may be off a tooth or two.
What would be the most efficient way to check and fix this problem?

 

check the timing

 

outta curiousity what makes you think the timing belt was installed wrong. you can always pull hte valve cover and check to see if the cam sprockets are lined up as well as the marks on the crank pulley.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cjsls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">outta curiousity what makes you think the timing belt was installed wrong. you can always pull hte valve cover and check to see if the cam sprockets are lined up as well as the marks on the crank pulley. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It seems to be missing. It has some hesitation/jerking in the middle rpm's. When I check the timing I have to turn the dizzy all the way to get it close to the white band. It had a low compression check. It is low on power.


What do the marks look like?

 

Does anybody know an easy way to fix a timing belt being off a tooth?

 

Get yourself a Helms.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get yourself a Helms.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have one it shows replacing the belt and it seems like a PITA. I was wondering if there is an easy way to just move the belt a tooth or two.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgsr91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have one it shows replacing the belt and it seems like a PITA. I was wondering if there is an easy way to just move the belt a tooth or two.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah the easiiest way would be too take it too a mechanic

 

im thinking you dont have both cam gears set to TDC. make sure the crank is TDC to.

 

loosen the tensioner take off the timing belt from the cams, get everything lined up. tighten tensioner. rotate it manually a couple of times to make sure its correct.

 

take it to a mechanic that knows what they're doing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pb16b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take it to a mechanic that knows what they're doing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How much is a fair price for this job? I was quoted $200.00 I thought that was too much.

 

i would charge about $150.

 

If nothing is milled off of the head or block, every thing should line up...ie crank at top dead center, and cam gears lined up straight. if you put the crank at tdc, and pull the valve cover and top timing cover, it shouyld be easy to check

 

here do it for free:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php

i would remove the valve cover and the top timing belt cover. turn the crank pulley bolt with a 19mm socket counterclockwise until the single white dash line on the crank pully is lined up with the pointer/marking on the timing belt cover. this is TDC. now check the cam gears to make sure that the arrows are pointing up and the two dots are lined up: on the intake cam gear, the dot is 90 degrees to the left of the intake cam gear and for the exhaust cam gear, it is 90 degrees to the right of the exhaust cam gear. if they are not lined up, loosen the 14mm tensioner bolt which is just to the bottom left of the water pump gear (u might have to remove the rubber plug thats in the way to gain access to the tensioner bolt) now after it's loose, take the timing belt off the cam gears and turn the cam gears with a 14mm open wrench until the arrows point up and the two dots are lined up (make sure the motor is still at tdc i.e. single white line on the crank pulley is lined up with mark on timing belt cover) after cam gears are set, put the timing belt back on. put the belt on the exhaust cam first to make the install easier. then tighten the tensioner pulley bolt. put everything back on and start her up.

 

Bam....there's everything you need to know explained by ^ with a link with pics too . And if you can't figure that out then you probably should take it to a mechanic

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here do it for free:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php

i would remove the valve cover and the top timing belt cover. turn the crank pulley bolt with a 19mm socket counterclockwise until the single white dash line on the crank pully is lined up with the pointer/marking on the timing belt cover. this is TDC. now check the cam gears to make sure that the arrows are pointing up and the two dots are lined up: on the intake cam gear, the dot is 90 degrees to the left of the intake cam gear and for the exhaust cam gear, it is 90 degrees to the right of the exhaust cam gear. if they are not lined up, loosen the 14mm tensioner bolt which is just to the bottom left of the water pump gear (u might have to remove the rubber plug thats in the way to gain access to the tensioner bolt) now after it's loose, take the timing belt off the cam gears and turn the cam gears with a 14mm open wrench until the arrows point up and the two dots are lined up (make sure the motor is still at tdc i.e. single white line on the crank pulley is lined up with mark on timing belt cover) after cam gears are set, put the timing belt back on. put the belt on the exhaust cam first to make the install easier. then tighten the tensioner pulley bolt. put everything back on and start her up.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Thanks I forgot about C-speedracing's how to's. I owe you big.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Thanks I forgot about C-speedracing's how to's. I owe you big.</TD></TR></TABLE>

u owe me big huh? how bout 50 bucks to contribute to my engine build. lol.

 

I checked everything the cam gears were right and the crank was on the mark. The only other things I can think of are the dizzy and the ECU.

 

clogged fuel filter? injectors? bad spark plugs? distributor rotor and cap? dirty air filter? bad spark plug wires? etc...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pb16b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">clogged fuel filter? ...</TD></TR></TABLE> changed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pb16b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">injectors? ...</TD></TR></TABLE> possibly
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pb16b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> bad spark plugs? </TD></TR></TABLE> changed twice
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pb16b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> distributor rotor and cap? </TD></TR></TABLE> changed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pb16b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> dirty air filter? </TD></TR></TABLE> not likely
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pb16b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> bad spark plug wires? etc...</TD></TR></TABLE> changed

As you can see I have been troubleshooting this problem for a while now.

 

you said it was "missing" only in the middle rpms right??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cjsls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you said it was "missing" only in the middle rpms right??</TD></TR></TABLE>

That it when it is the most noticable at light throttle in between 3-5k rpm's. It could be happening all the time, I am not sure. It was tuned with a VAFC II and made 151 whp

 

does it happen at full throttle? who tuned the vafc?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cjsls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does it happen at full throttle? who tuned the vafc?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am not sure if it happens at full throttle but the dyno curve was smooth. Just both the whp and torque were low.

A local tuner shop tuned it on a dynojet.