motor mounts
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Charlottesville, Va, usa
so christina needs a new rear motor mount. i dont know a whole lot about motor mounts, and searches just yielded results which talk about how much of a pain in the *** the rear mount is to replace. so i'm wondering what my choices are and the pros and cons of those choices. from what i understand after my 10 minutes of research, mounts with rubber inserts prevent the car from shaking and rattling while solid mounts prevent the engine and tranny from moving. any and all info would help. thanks!
-b
-b
You dont want solid mounts...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...&rd=1 - that should do it. Mugen motor mount set is $440 also
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...&rd=1 - that should do it. Mugen motor mount set is $440 also
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,913
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From: Charlottesville, Va, usa
clemsonhatch:
the car is used mainly for hpde. i dont have wheelhop.
also, should i replace the whole mount, or just the insert? i figure the whole mount to be safe, but if i'm told otherwise, then i'll consider it.
the car is used mainly for hpde. i dont have wheelhop.
also, should i replace the whole mount, or just the insert? i figure the whole mount to be safe, but if i'm told otherwise, then i'll consider it.
if your gonna change the rear mount
i'd put a prothane insert, (acutually, that is what i did
)
an insert is very cheap, and can fix a broken motor mount
I like prothane better than energy suspension, the prothan is A LOT stiffer
i'd put a prothane insert, (acutually, that is what i did
)an insert is very cheap, and can fix a broken motor mount
I like prothane better than energy suspension, the prothan is A LOT stiffer
those are nice if you don't have mounts or doing a swap
but overkill for replacing a stock mount
My prothane/energy suspenion inserts, do the job just the same
Engine doesn't rock one bit
but overkill for replacing a stock mount
My prothane/energy suspenion inserts, do the job just the same
Engine doesn't rock one bit
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You dont want solid mounts...
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why not?
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why not?
Inserts are cheap and do work better than stock but if u got the money do it right I switched my prothanes out with the profab and noticed a big difference, when you drop the clutch hard or down shift hard the motor moves alot with inserts, I know this because i was experimenting with a shifter that did'nt use a stabalizer bar and that **** was moving all over the place with the new mounts it hardly moved at all.
Profab mounts
Profab mounts
i used new stock mounts with inserts in all of them. however, you have to get both the energy suspension and prothane kit to get the inserts for all 5 mounts.
.RJ rode in my car, it wasn't too bad with the mounts it, but it did vibrate some.
.RJ rode in my car, it wasn't too bad with the mounts it, but it did vibrate some.
if you are going with a stiffer mount, (insert or other) make sure to replace all mounts with the stiffer ones.
personally, I would say do the inserts on all the mounts. cheap, effective, and a minor upgrade while still streetable
personally, I would say do the inserts on all the mounts. cheap, effective, and a minor upgrade while still streetable
You can buy tubes of urethane and simply fill in the mount. Then paint it if you want it blinging
The driver and passenger mounts simply keep the motor off the ground in a turn and provide minimal dampening but do little in the way of actually controlling engine tq/ movement
One of the easiets ways to remove it is to pull the header, jack it up high enough so you can get under ther and keep the body level by using 4 jack stands, undo the front bolt so there is enough play f to back and undo the rear.
When you bolt the rear back in lift up the front of the car and the motor will tilt back enough to slip the front bolt back through
The driver and passenger mounts simply keep the motor off the ground in a turn and provide minimal dampening but do little in the way of actually controlling engine tq/ movement
One of the easiets ways to remove it is to pull the header, jack it up high enough so you can get under ther and keep the body level by using 4 jack stands, undo the front bolt so there is enough play f to back and undo the rear.
When you bolt the rear back in lift up the front of the car and the motor will tilt back enough to slip the front bolt back through
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,913
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From: Charlottesville, Va, usa
so the vote goes towards poly mounts like these:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=713941

now, who's got a rollbar they wanna sell me?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=713941

now, who's got a rollbar they wanna sell me?
3m window weld is cheap and more effective than inserts. its just a little messy if not handled with care. take your time and maybe even wear some latex gloves because if you get it on your hands, it will NOT come off for a while. ive done several set of mounts with it and all have yielded excellent results.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your gonna change the rear mount
i'd put a prothane insert, (acutually, that is what i did
)
an insert is very cheap, and can fix a broken motor mount</TD></TR></TABLE>
i disagree 100%!!!! put a new mount in.....you will eventually and quickly wear out an insert....
it is NOT A FIX....it is a disguise....only hiding a problem that is there and since it is so much of a pita to do this you might as well do it right....
and a rear hasport mount would NOT cause big vibrations....will cause some but not like you think
i'd put a prothane insert, (acutually, that is what i did
)an insert is very cheap, and can fix a broken motor mount</TD></TR></TABLE>
i disagree 100%!!!! put a new mount in.....you will eventually and quickly wear out an insert....
it is NOT A FIX....it is a disguise....only hiding a problem that is there and since it is so much of a pita to do this you might as well do it right....
and a rear hasport mount would NOT cause big vibrations....will cause some but not like you think
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i disagree 100%!!!! put a new mount in.....you will eventually and quickly wear out an insert....
it is NOT A FIX....it is a disguise....only hiding a problem that is there and since it is so much of a pita to do this you might as well do it right....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes! I just picked up a brand new mount from Acura for $55 or so for the rear. Get a new one then throw an insert in.
it is NOT A FIX....it is a disguise....only hiding a problem that is there and since it is so much of a pita to do this you might as well do it right....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes! I just picked up a brand new mount from Acura for $55 or so for the rear. Get a new one then throw an insert in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i disagree 100%!!!! put a new mount in.....you will eventually and quickly wear out an insert....
it is NOT A FIX....it is a disguise....only hiding a problem that is there and since it is so much of a pita to do this you might as well do it right....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your full of crap...
I have used inserts for years on my broken front mount and non broken rear mount, they are fine still, best 35$ spent..
(prelude/accords front mounts are very different from civic/tegs fwiw)
it is NOT A FIX....it is a disguise....only hiding a problem that is there and since it is so much of a pita to do this you might as well do it right....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your full of crap...
I have used inserts for years on my broken front mount and non broken rear mount, they are fine still, best 35$ spent..
(prelude/accords front mounts are very different from civic/tegs fwiw)
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