Bolt inside front subframe snaped - Would this be safe?
Well, i was unscrewing the LCA bolt that connects to the front subframe and then i snaped the nut inside the subframe off. I really don't want to replace the entire subframe for the time being because its really cold outside. I am planning on doing it in the spring/summer. So my question is how safe would it be if i where to weld the indicated part(pic) to the subframe until the weather allows me to do the swap. Also im going to cut the bolt thats in their right now and see if could put in a slightly bigger bolt and thighten it up.
Circled part

BTW this is for my 92 hatch
Circled part

BTW this is for my 92 hatch
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpdFrk »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah but do you think its safe? Will the welds hold up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
how good of a welder are you?
how good of a welder are you?
Sorry, but don't weld anything.
Can you get to the part that stuck in?
If so try a bolt extractor and back the bolt out, then replace.
Yeah I make it sound so easy
Can you get to the part that stuck in?
If so try a bolt extractor and back the bolt out, then replace.
Yeah I make it sound so easy
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry, but don't weld anything.
Can you get to the part that stuck in?
If so try a bolt extractor and back the bolt out, then replace.
Yeah I make it sound so easy
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He said the NUT snapped off, i.e. there's nothing to screw the bolt #19 in anymore?
Maybe something a bit more permanent, can you weld a bolt into the subframe and use a nut to hold the LCA in place?
Sounds like a bad idea as I type it. Good luck with that.. I'd replace it personally.
(Edit, Yes "I'd" replace it, but I'm a girl.)
Can you get to the part that stuck in?
If so try a bolt extractor and back the bolt out, then replace.
Yeah I make it sound so easy
</TD></TR></TABLE>He said the NUT snapped off, i.e. there's nothing to screw the bolt #19 in anymore?
Maybe something a bit more permanent, can you weld a bolt into the subframe and use a nut to hold the LCA in place?
Sounds like a bad idea as I type it. Good luck with that.. I'd replace it personally.(Edit, Yes "I'd" replace it, but I'm a girl.)
so let me get this right...
there is a flat piece of metal that had a nut on one side and then you would pass a bolt thru the flat metal to screw into the nut that used to be attached?
I don't get whats so hard here, jimmy rig the nut on one side and when the bolt gets tight it's done.
Am I way off here?
there is a flat piece of metal that had a nut on one side and then you would pass a bolt thru the flat metal to screw into the nut that used to be attached?
I don't get whats so hard here, jimmy rig the nut on one side and when the bolt gets tight it's done.
Am I way off here?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry, but don't weld anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And why the hell not?
Thats how that nut is attached by the factory.
And why the hell not?
Thats how that nut is attached by the factory.
Well see in order to get to that bolt you have to do alot of cutting into the subframe and i don't have the tools to cut into the subframe. Here is a better pic of what i want to do.

The part i want to weld onto the subframe is the part i circled in the above parts pic.

The part i want to weld onto the subframe is the part i circled in the above parts pic.
look rob, he drew you a picture!
SpdFrk, weld that **** to the subframe.. it's safe.. it'll be fine.. just make sure someone who is a competent welder does the work.. if you are paranoid, fix it when the weather is nicer.. or leave it forever..
-mark, whose rear UCA is welded to the frame rail, since the nut is snapped off inside just like this.. 5k miles(1.5k on track) later and it's fine..
SpdFrk, weld that **** to the subframe.. it's safe.. it'll be fine.. just make sure someone who is a competent welder does the work.. if you are paranoid, fix it when the weather is nicer.. or leave it forever..
-mark, whose rear UCA is welded to the frame rail, since the nut is snapped off inside just like this.. 5k miles(1.5k on track) later and it's fine..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So your saying that you can't get a hand inside the rail?
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his is inside the front subframe(which bolts to the rails).. to access the welded(or formerly) nuts on the inside, you have to cut it open.. wasn't worth the hassle to me..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
his is inside the front subframe(which bolts to the rails).. to access the welded(or formerly) nuts on the inside, you have to cut it open.. wasn't worth the hassle to me..
Oh!
I see now.
what about cutting the opening just a hair bigger then the nut it self, then welding the nut to a plate (Nice and thick) then placing the plate over the hole with the nut facing inside the rail and have a damm good welder attach the plate?
Does that make any sense?
I see now.
what about cutting the opening just a hair bigger then the nut it self, then welding the nut to a plate (Nice and thick) then placing the plate over the hole with the nut facing inside the rail and have a damm good welder attach the plate?
Does that make any sense?
no point in going through all that when you can just weld that puppy on there.. i would weld it with the bolt in the hole though(even if it's hanging free in there)..
but yes, rob, your methods would all work..
but yes, rob, your methods would all work..
I was actually looking at some tourch cutters and found one for $72.99. I thought maybe i could cut off a small piece of the subframe so i could get a wrench in their to hold the nut while someone else unscrews the bolt then reassemble everything and weld the peice back up.
Here is the cutter i found:
http://www.bernzomatic.com/ber...19614
Im pretty sure i'll cut threw the subframe since it's not that thick.
What do you all say??
Here is the cutter i found:
http://www.bernzomatic.com/ber...19614
Im pretty sure i'll cut threw the subframe since it's not that thick.
What do you all say??
I say what ever you do try to minimize the cutting... don't cut more then you have to. only will weaken the metal.
I say find a welder, maybe not a car mechanic but a welder, and ask what he thinks.
I say my plan of:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OR...
Just make the hole the same size as the nut and place in the hole of the frame and weld the nut into the frame?</TD></TR></TABLE> would be the best...
I say find a welder, maybe not a car mechanic but a welder, and ask what he thinks.
I say my plan of:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OR...
Just make the hole the same size as the nut and place in the hole of the frame and weld the nut into the frame?</TD></TR></TABLE> would be the best...
same **** happened to me, well sorta
it was one of the 14mm bolts that bolts the passenger side torque mount up into the frame, the weleded nut inside the frame broke loose but was still attached to the bolt....i wound up having to cut the bolt off and made a half dollar size hole in the frame....just big enough to hold a nut onto the new bolt
you think honda would do a better job tack welding those nuts inside the frame...the welds sucked
it was one of the 14mm bolts that bolts the passenger side torque mount up into the frame, the weleded nut inside the frame broke loose but was still attached to the bolt....i wound up having to cut the bolt off and made a half dollar size hole in the frame....just big enough to hold a nut onto the new bolt
you think honda would do a better job tack welding those nuts inside the frame...the welds sucked
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But anyway that nut is secured it has to transfer the stress to the frame, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You want the subframe to take the stress NOT the weld.
You want the subframe to take the stress NOT the weld.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm lost 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know
To do what you're talking about properly requires pulling the subframe out, which is what homeboy is trying to avoid for right now.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know

To do what you're talking about properly requires pulling the subframe out, which is what homeboy is trying to avoid for right now.


