do i really need to get a set of arp rod bolts for my LS rods if i dont plan on rev n past redline? im gonna rebuild my engine in a few months and would like to know if i really need this part on the engine build. i might probably end up do n it just for security but i wanna have about a 1 to 2 day turn around time to rebuild the motor which i am gonna do myself with the help of a friend who owns a race shop. how long will the machine shop take to install these bolts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do i really need to get a set of arp rod bolts for my LS rods if i dont plan on rev n past redline? im gonna rebuild my engine in a few months and would like to know if i really need this part on the engine build. i might probably end up do n it just for security but i wanna have about a 1 to 2 day turn around time to rebuild the motor which i am gonna do myself with the help of a friend who owns a race shop. how long will the machine shop take to install these bolts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would highly recommend it. The machine shop will also have to resize the large end of the rods, because the press fit of the new bolts will distort the shape of the bearing housing.

It will be around $80 to have them installed and have the rods resized.

DO NOT cheap out and not have the rods resized.

 

If you dont plan on revving past 7k then I wouldnt invest into a set.

 

strongly recommend it...i have a set if youre interested pm me

 

any more opinions if im not rev n over 7K's?

 

resize the rods? this is the first I've heard of this....can you explain more?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any more opinions if im not rev n over 7K's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would do it, even if you say you are only revving to 7. What's to say you won't put cams or a vtec head on down the line, and be revving over 8k? Might as well spend the $130 for parts and labor and have it done.

If you really, honestly have no plans on revving over 7, you will be perfectly fine without them.

 

the reason for doing it is so that you dont spin a bearing and have to get a new crankshaft and rod(s)

 

resizing (bore) to make sure the rod and cap when torqued are of the correct size. primarily circle instead of slightly oval. also highly reccomended when you install main studs.

 

my motor has arp rods bolts in the ls rods good thing to have.
i hit 9k lots of times.

 

your friend owns a race shop and he can't tell you if you need ARP's or not?

 

i never asked him if i needed them. i dont go to the shop everyday, just fridays. so i'll ask him tomorrow too.
well i got cams in my car already. im only do n a semi-built non-vtec motor. future plans for this car calls for B20/VTEC turbo with all internals changed for forged.

thanks for the replies

 

i wouldn't bother with those. i got an lsvtec with stock rod bolts but i just used new ones and rev to 8k all day. as long as you use new oem components you'll be fine. by the way, the guy that built my motor uses stock rod bolts on his companies drag car lsvtec motor. he hits 9 grand everytime for over 4000 miles.

 

It all about what is going to make you feel good !
My first ls/tec is still together and has not been apart in 4 years. Stock rod bolts raced at over 9,000 and now getting me to and from work every day. It went 11.86 in my crx.

 

werd

 

cool. so i wont get them. will get a set of arp head studs though

 

do you guyz know if it's gonna be a bitch installing new rod bolts wid the block still in the car?

 

u gotta take out the pistons and rods when u install rod bolts. u need to get the stock ones pressed out and the new ones pressed in plus some other machine work neccessary.

i asked the same question a while ago when i didnt know what was involved in install n them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u gotta take out the pistons and rods when u install rod bolts. u need to get the stock ones pressed out and the new ones pressed in plus some other machine work neccessary.

i asked the same question a while ago when i didnt know what was involved in install n them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh so u took it to the shop and let them install it for u?

 

no i didnt get ARP rod bolts. since i wont be rev n past 7K rpm's, i decided not to get them. im not gonna have this setup in my engine for a long time, so i dont wanna spend the extra cash to get the rod bolts installed. im a poor college student

 

haha same here...i'm poor also...i'm tryin to save some money and jus slap on that vtec head...i really don't want to take that heavy *** block out my car...maybe i'll slap on my head and rev at 7 K also ...wat are you running?

 

u dont need to pull the block out. just remove the rod and piston assembly. then take it to a machine shop to have them install it. if ur gonna go VTEC, then i would recommend the rod bolts cuz u need to rev to like 8K to take advantage of that head. plus u can install a set of new rod bearings and piston rings to make ur motor a little more reliable. dont forget to get ARP head studs too when u do the install.

im gonna pull my piston and rod assembly out of my block with it still in the car. no pull n out the motor for me! Im gonna install some PR3 B16 pistons in my block. this is go n on a straight LS setup with some CROWER cams. VTEC will be in the future for me

 

yeah i might do that also...after takin out the pistons and rods assembly...i take it to the shop and what do they do? and after they do w/e they do...wat kind of work would i have to do to put the whole piston and rod assembly back in the block?

 

after the machine shop puts in the rod bolts, all u need to do is put eveything back together. ur gonna need new rod bearings, piston rings, head gasket, ARP head studs r recommended. if u havent change ur timing belt and water pump i would change those too.
ur gonna need to gap the rings to spec when u install it back. get a manual like helms, hayne, chilton.... they explain how to do it