Welding Pipe to flange (flat surface, etc) NEED HELP
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well i was gonna try to make some manifolds this weekend so before i wast good material and expensive header flanges i thought it woudl be a good idea to try to weld a pipe to flat peice of steel. ive only been tig welding for about a month now and can lay pretty decent beads on a pipe to pipe weld. I was alittle disapointed and frustarated with welding a pipe to a flange, etc...any input would be greatly appreciated...thanks
Heres some pics of a few of my attempts..


Heres some pics of a few of my attempts..


Not all that bad really...now the first pic really sucks...could have gotten a bit better focus 
But...are you making sure to keep your tungsten sharp?
Try this:
Get a puddle going the size you want and dab in wire. Move forward about 1/8" and repeat...
OR
Leave the wire in the puddle and just zig zag back and forth across it, melting it as you move along.

But...are you making sure to keep your tungsten sharp?
Try this:
Get a puddle going the size you want and dab in wire. Move forward about 1/8" and repeat...
OR
Leave the wire in the puddle and just zig zag back and forth across it, melting it as you move along.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not all that bad really...now the first pic really sucks...could have gotten a bit better focus 
But...are you making sure to keep your tungsten sharp?
Try this:
Get a puddle going the size you want and dab in wire. Move forward about 1/8" and repeat...
OR
Leave the wire in the puddle and just zig zag back and forth across it, melting it as you move along.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll admit, i was getting lazy with the tungsten tonite so that could have been a culprit..
When you say leave the rod in teh puddle and zig zag, kinda like walking the cup?

But...are you making sure to keep your tungsten sharp?
Try this:
Get a puddle going the size you want and dab in wire. Move forward about 1/8" and repeat...
OR
Leave the wire in the puddle and just zig zag back and forth across it, melting it as you move along.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll admit, i was getting lazy with the tungsten tonite so that could have been a culprit..
When you say leave the rod in teh puddle and zig zag, kinda like walking the cup?
exactly. If you know how to walk the cup, either do that or dab wire. Don't bother a freehand weave unless you can't get the torch in position to walk the cup.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">exactly. If you know how to walk the cup, either do that or dab wire. Don't bother a freehand weave unless you can't get the torch in position to walk the cup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
im pretty good with walking the cup on pipe to pipe welds, lay a pretty consistent nice looking bead almost everytime...i guess thats why this kinda frustarated me so much, I'll have to give it a try
im pretty good with walking the cup on pipe to pipe welds, lay a pretty consistent nice looking bead almost everytime...i guess thats why this kinda frustarated me so much, I'll have to give it a try
do you guys wanna explain what walking the cup is? i'm new to tig. i've done it for 3 classes so far and we dont go over things like that. just laying flat beads, lap joints, and t-joints
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks nice , maybe could use some more filler rod, but still nice none the less, </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks, can't wait for the collectors
thanks, can't wait for the collectors
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Atheist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea looks great but very concave. Needs a bit more filler to increase the strength</TD></TR></TABLE>
i seem to have a problem undercutting it when i have to reposition my self and the torch sits for a second..
i seem to have a problem undercutting it when i have to reposition my self and the torch sits for a second..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mpir3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i seem to have a problem undercutting it when i have to reposition my self and the torch sits for a second..</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are probably moving when you reposition. Also, a little more filler can help to avoid this. Undercut is usually caused when you move your heat to the side too fast and either don't give the molten metal time to flow into it before moving, or you simply don't have enough filler to spread out that far.
i seem to have a problem undercutting it when i have to reposition my self and the torch sits for a second..</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are probably moving when you reposition. Also, a little more filler can help to avoid this. Undercut is usually caused when you move your heat to the side too fast and either don't give the molten metal time to flow into it before moving, or you simply don't have enough filler to spread out that far.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mpir3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thanks, can't wait for the collectors
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you will have them thursday , and did you get my pm i sent you ???
thanks, can't wait for the collectors
</TD></TR></TABLE>you will have them thursday , and did you get my pm i sent you ???
Dannnnnnng,
Nice job Jesse, Ill be working on CNCing those flanges in a couple of weeks. Just get them to me and we will right the program. Time to make a mani for the green machine.
Nice job Jesse, Ill be working on CNCing those flanges in a couple of weeks. Just get them to me and we will right the program. Time to make a mani for the green machine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you walk the cup ? </TD></TR></TABLE>
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