I was pulling my wheels off today to test fit my stylin' new autocross wheels/tires when I noticed this in the right rear:



I'm assuming the oil all over the outside of the shock is suposed to be inside of the shock.

I was really hoping to get one more year out of these shocks and then send them to Lee next winter for rebuilding / revalving and possibly make the rears externally adj. (the fronts already are) Because this year I blew my "upgrade" budget on these stylin' new wheels and tires:



So, my choices:

1) run a season on these blown shocks and hope it doesn't tear them up too much more

2) rack up my credit cards on sending just the rears to Koni for rebuild / revalving (and if there's enough room on the card - adding external adjusters) and get the fronts done next year.

3) sell my left ******** to afford sending all 4 shocks in..... oh, that's right, I no longer have a left ******** to sell.... scratch that option.

 

It's time to ***** yourself...

What spring rates were you running to blow your shock like that? I somehow managed to blow my stock LF shock on my stock car after only 18k miles on the odo

 

i would guess a 600 but im probley way off

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LX4CYL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I somehow managed to blow my stock LF shock on my stock car after only 18k miles on the odo </TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the same shock blow out on mine. Stock springs, stock shocks, everything but the tires were stock. Go figure.


For the Konis, are they under warranty? Maybe you could get them fixed for free then send them in for rebuild. Or maybe Lee could swing an upgrade with a discount for the "warranty" part of the work. I don't know what the koni warranty covers. I bought my shocks used so I never looked since I'm not covered.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MattG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the Konis, are they under warranty? I bought my shocks used so I never looked since I'm not covered.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I got mine used too.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LX4CYL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What spring rates were you running to blow your shock like that? </TD></TR></TABLE>

450lb in the rear. I only had them on for about a year and they seemed to be in great shape when I got them. I was running them at 1 turn away from full stiff and was daily driving on them as well as autocrossing. I was thinking of going to 550's next year and move these 450's up front but now I think I may want to wait on that plan. I wasn't running a dust boot because of the GC's being in the way and I never got around to doing the steering rack boot trick.

 

Looks like you have aleaker that needs to be repair or replaced. They are not covered by warranty as you were not the original purchaser. We can service them with the same or a race valving (my suggestion) for $100 each in labor plus about $20ish in parts. If you want them made externally adjustable, then for about another $40 each the rods can be replaced. That would give you fresh, externally adjustable race valved units for about $160 each.

Also for around $150 each an no waiting, you can buy the new externally adjustanble 8041-1164 Sport units that will have a street warranty (voided of course when used for racing, autocross, etc.) but not be race valved. Finally, there are still some dealers that have new old stock of the compress to adjust units like you currently have that will be much cheaper and I think Todd may have some remaining new ex-TC Kline 8040-1078 SPSS early race valved but still compress to adjust units for sale.

So there are several options, including several for simiolar money so it would be best for you to decide where you want to be when it is done... with race valved units, with warranted street externals, more of the same for less money, etc.

 

Thanks for the reply Lee, looks like I'll be giving you a call to get at least the rears rebuilt. The car will be heavily campaigned on the Autocross courses next season so new shocks with a warranty that will be voided doesn't really make sense.

Is it going to throw things too far off balance to be running race valved rears and off the shelf ("Neuspeed" style) in the front for a season and then getting the fronts done next year?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Louie B. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is it going to throw things too far off balance to be running race valved rears and off the shelf ("Neuspeed" style) in the front for a season and then getting the fronts done next year?</TD></TR></TABLE>

"Some" is better than "None" but "All" is best.

Just be ready for the car to rotate much better and expect to find yourself a bit higher in the front adjustment range. I would highly recommend that you adjust the rears back down pretty far when driving on the street so you don't get surprise oversteer on the street. I would not recommend this set-up to a neophyte driver on the street but with the right understanding you will be fine and much better off in the mean time. Normally if you must do one end at a time, you would do the front first for a greater safety margin as risk of some understeer on the street is safer generally than risk of some oversteer when you are not ready for it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

risk of some understeer on the street is safer generally than risk of some oversteer when you are not ready for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I second that, it is really surprising when the rear comes out on you...