Has anybody seen one it person? I'm about to buy one this very second but not sure if i can use my IACV,and air temp, also in the pix they show no spot to put the throttle cable. So my my question is can i put my sensors on this IM and throttle cable?
Dont need egr running p28.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...36474

 

that thing is bling bling...

havent heard too many good things about that company tho...

 

I need it for my turbo setup. Cant afford any other one.

 

i have heard the sensors dont fit well, and that there is a couple places that arent even there.

this was for the B16 but im sure ots the same thing for the H22 i almost bought one too

 

OBX=
You get what u pay for, wait and get something thats worth it...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1SICJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OBX=
You get what u pay for, wait and get something thats worth it...</TD></TR></TABLE>


I'm not trying to strat a thread about how much obx sucks. I'm asking a simple question please answer it. I cant wait if i do it'll be months. If anything i'm going to take my stock one in and get it ported ect. For 200.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1SICJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OBX=
You get what u pay for, wait and get something thats worth it...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have seen the d-series manifold in person and it's complete junk

Save your money and get a Euro-R manifold.

 

Umm look for a used on on here. Probally be able to find one for $200. How much is the eddlebrock new?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRex91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have seen the d-series manifold in person and it's complete junk

Save your money and get a Euro-R manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont need to save money for Euro-r they cost the same. But i'm boosting.

 

you know if blox makes a h22 manifold?

i would get that one over the obx

 

euro r manifold sucks... at least for NA it does, its hurting us quite a bit right now. we will be going with the obx manifold here shortly... the manifold dosnt look like it has provisions for anything except a few vac lines.. its 175 bux.. deal with it

 

What im wondering is how do you exactly "deal" with not having sensors that make your car run right. When it gets really cold my car throws the IAT sensor code and it runs like crap.....and thats just the Intake Air Temp sensor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> deal with it</TD></TR></TABLE>

Than how do you deal with no IACV?

 

just make a vac leak ... thats how we have been doing it.

 

Than what? close that vac leak when the car warms up.....lol I'm guessing these IM are for drag only and not good for everyday driving.

 

no.. it just idles high when its warm...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just make a vac leak ... thats how we have been doing it.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

There will be no cold/warm idle like that. The engine also has to idle fairly high to prevent stalling when there is load on the alternator from engine fan/AC/headlights.

Why not fab a plate that goes on top of the IACV, tap a 1/4" NPT thread for the plate and place a barb fitting there. Plumb the IACV from the barb fitting and into the intake manifold.

That's how you should run it. Basically every ITB-equipped engine has it set up like that including my own.

 

Will i got an email and asked if i ca put my stock sensors on and this is their reply.

"no this manifold is just like the venom manifold only 4 hole on the top of the manifold"

I'm going to go ahead and get one and mack it work. the new skunk2 IM comes with a kit to move your IACV so go to try to get ahold of one. Does any body have one laying around they will sell?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tony the Tiger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There will be no cold/warm idle like that. The engine also has to idle fairly high to prevent stalling when there is load on the alternator from engine fan/AC/headlights.</TD></TR></TABLE>


when the engine is first cranked in the morning i have to hold it with the gas for about 20-30 sec, then it wil settle into about a 8-900 rpms lumpy idle while its cold... once its warm it idles solid at ~1300 and never stalls. IMO the lumpyness and not wanting to run when its cold is because of the jun3 cams, not the lack of IACV.. when it had hte iac and i tuned the idle down to 900 rpms it was really lumpy and didnt wana run even when cold.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


when the engine is first cranked in the morning i have to hold it with the gas for about 20-30 sec, then it wil settle into about a 8-900 rpms lumpy idle while its cold... once its warm it idles solid at ~1300 and never stalls. IMO the lumpyness and not wanting to run when its cold is because of the jun3 cams, not the lack of IACV.. when it had hte iac and i tuned the idle down to 900 rpms it was really lumpy and didnt wana run even when cold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1300RPM is kinda high for warm idle... I used to have my TODA Spec B's (with much more agressive non-VTEC profiles than the Jun3's) idle at 950RPM steady. Either way, you can get the car to idle without the IACV during summer weathers, but you'd still lose the steady idle whenever you switch on accessories/engine fan/AC, etc...

The mod I am talking about requires almost no effort. This is also what the ENDYN/Air intake manifold tells you to do whenever you buy one of their IM's. Basically fab a retangular aluminum/metal plate, about 1/4" thickness that bolts on top of the IACV. Have a barb coming out of the IACV which plumbs back into the IM. I'll try to get some pics up to show how simple this mod really is

On the other hand, here with Canadian weather the car will not idle at all without the IACV, unless you bleed enough vacuum to the extent that the car would warm idle at 1800+ RPM I've tried to run without one when I had the ITB's on, but hell no the car would not want to idle at all even during an autumn morning (about 5-8 deg C).

 

haha, damn cold sucks.. the coldest we see on a regular basis is low 40's maybe high 30's, but only for a few days.

we have the euro r manifold in the car right now and the iacv wont fit.. we are gona be going through a few different intakes for testing and im not gona put the work into fabing up some stuff we wont be using for long..

the jun3's for h22 have a really agressive primary lobe, and it lopes pretty hard. we dont have a/c, or ps so there is never much load at idle, the headlights dont really effect the idle at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
we have the euro r manifold in the car right now and the iacv wont fit.. we are gona be going through a few different intakes for testing and im not gona put the work into fabing up some stuff we wont be using for long..
.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, if it will be installed for testing only, then it is not worth the effort. As long as the car idles during testing, that is all it matters

But for those who wants to be using these intake manifolds for a long time and worry about the IACV issue, they can follow what I did and fabbing a plate.

 

another option would be to get the "kit" for the skunk2 intake manifold.. it has that plate and such already made for you

 

jdogg...let us know how it goes with the obx manifold

 

I was looking into getting one of this for my EG H22 turbo setting.

I'd say mod the manifold to fit the sensors.