Help me put together my tranny!~
Alright, finally went and gota bearing & gear puller to get the countershaft apart. When I started to assemble the new one (JDM shaft) I noticed a few signifcant differences. First off, the very first piece to be swapped over is called the "thrust shim" This shim seats fine on the usdm shaft, but does not on the jdm and just sits loosely, un centered. Should this piece just be omitted?
Secondly, the JDM 1st gear has a sleeve in it while the USDM does not. I remember D saying something about how he forgot to put a piece in, I think it was the firction damper, piece #93 in the helms. If you try to put this on the JDM first, when the gear seats, the sleeve pops out and pushes the damper out of place.
TIA
Secondly, the JDM 1st gear has a sleeve in it while the USDM does not. I remember D saying something about how he forgot to put a piece in, I think it was the firction damper, piece #93 in the helms. If you try to put this on the JDM first, when the gear seats, the sleeve pops out and pushes the damper out of place.
TIA
I feel for you, Ed. One thing I don't recommend is going internal on transmissions without *some* hands-on or something.
I did the R&R on my transmission.. but I had my friend do the ATS FD install.
I watched him.. but trannies scare me.
I did the R&R on my transmission.. but I had my friend do the ATS FD install.
I watched him.. but trannies scare me.
I can walk you through this, call me tomorrow after 9 AM PST, **censorship is cool**
Jeff
[Modified by jeff652, 9:25 PM 1/11/2002]
Jeff
[Modified by jeff652, 9:25 PM 1/11/2002]
I feel for you, Ed. One thing I don't recommend is going internal on transmissions without *some* hands-on or something.
I did the R&R on my transmission.. but I had my friend do the ATS FD install.
I watched him.. but trannies scare me.
I did the R&R on my transmission.. but I had my friend do the ATS FD install.
I watched him.. but trannies scare me.
I'm pretty confident things will turn out alright.

PS Mike- I left a message w/ Kevin, give me a call when you get a chance.
Jeff-Thanks for the offer I will most definetly do so.
Maybe this will help you in the meantime . . .
"Alright, finally went and gota bearing & gear puller to get the countershaft apart. When I started to assemble the new one (JDM shaft) I noticed a few signifcant differences. First off, the very first piece to be swapped over is called the "thrust shim" This shim seats fine on the usdm shaft, but does not on the jdm and just sits loosely, un centered. Should this piece just be omitted?"
The 'thrust shim' from the USDM countershaft is NOT used on the JDM countershaft. The Collar ring is used in it's place.
"Secondly, the JDM 1st gear has a sleeve in it while the USDM does not. I remember D saying something about how he forgot to put a piece in, I think it was the firction damper, piece #93 in the helms. If you try to put this on the JDM first, when the gear seats, the sleeve pops out and pushes the damper out of place."
I pulled the friction dampner out of my USDM fist countershaft gear and put it in the JDM first and it worked fine. Some people say the US friction dampner needs to be replaced with the JDM version as part of the conversion, but this has not been my experience.
Put the friction dampner into the first gear, then slide the first gear (GENTLY) onto the collar ring. Does it still slide off/out? can you slide it back on/in?
Which way are you putting the sleve? It goes on first, with the larger collar part twoard the diff gear . . .
In the very top edge of this picture, you can see the sleve and first gear on the countershaft, and how the sleve is supposed to be positioned.

Ok, have to go to bed now, if your still stuck tomorrow morning, call me . . .
"Alright, finally went and gota bearing & gear puller to get the countershaft apart. When I started to assemble the new one (JDM shaft) I noticed a few signifcant differences. First off, the very first piece to be swapped over is called the "thrust shim" This shim seats fine on the usdm shaft, but does not on the jdm and just sits loosely, un centered. Should this piece just be omitted?"
The 'thrust shim' from the USDM countershaft is NOT used on the JDM countershaft. The Collar ring is used in it's place.
"Secondly, the JDM 1st gear has a sleeve in it while the USDM does not. I remember D saying something about how he forgot to put a piece in, I think it was the firction damper, piece #93 in the helms. If you try to put this on the JDM first, when the gear seats, the sleeve pops out and pushes the damper out of place."
I pulled the friction dampner out of my USDM fist countershaft gear and put it in the JDM first and it worked fine. Some people say the US friction dampner needs to be replaced with the JDM version as part of the conversion, but this has not been my experience.
Put the friction dampner into the first gear, then slide the first gear (GENTLY) onto the collar ring. Does it still slide off/out? can you slide it back on/in?
Which way are you putting the sleve? It goes on first, with the larger collar part twoard the diff gear . . .
In the very top edge of this picture, you can see the sleve and first gear on the countershaft, and how the sleve is supposed to be positioned.

Ok, have to go to bed now, if your still stuck tomorrow morning, call me . . .
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Thanks, that cleared everything up, I think I had the collar upside down, because when I recieced it it was placed inside the wrong way.... I got it all back together, not having a press sucks, but after 50,000 tiny little taps with hammers I got everything seated.
One more concern:
Upon test-fitting the new countershaft, I noticed that the 1st gear teeth are extremely close to both the FD gear and the casing, to the point where if the shaft is off more than 1 degree it will scrape. I'm assuming that once the case is assembled and the shafts have support on both ends all will be well?
I have to order even more parts now, because the top bearing is binding I tapped it on using a 32mm socket, but I think the socket contacted the ***** themselves and damaged the bearing. Next time I will use a smaller socket that just touches the bearing hub. I'll also replace the top needle bearing while I'm at it.
Just for those interested/reference:
The mainshaft was much easier, no pullers or presses needed, everything slides on/off with minimal force. I installed a new 3/4 synchro, although the existing one didn't look very bad (then again it was my first time to ever see one
). I'll try and post pics to make sure it will solve my upshift grinding problem on both 3 & 4.
I hope this helps anyone else going through what I am
[Modified by sackdz, 2:46 AM 12/31/2001]
One more concern:
Upon test-fitting the new countershaft, I noticed that the 1st gear teeth are extremely close to both the FD gear and the casing, to the point where if the shaft is off more than 1 degree it will scrape. I'm assuming that once the case is assembled and the shafts have support on both ends all will be well?
I have to order even more parts now, because the top bearing is binding I tapped it on using a 32mm socket, but I think the socket contacted the ***** themselves and damaged the bearing. Next time I will use a smaller socket that just touches the bearing hub. I'll also replace the top needle bearing while I'm at it.
Just for those interested/reference:
The mainshaft was much easier, no pullers or presses needed, everything slides on/off with minimal force. I installed a new 3/4 synchro, although the existing one didn't look very bad (then again it was my first time to ever see one
). I'll try and post pics to make sure it will solve my upshift grinding problem on both 3 & 4.I hope this helps anyone else going through what I am

[Modified by sackdz, 2:46 AM 12/31/2001]
.....man, I was gonna help you but jeff beat me to it!
Anyway, make sure you replace that pinion nut... seems like the old one doesn't like to go back on... Also, don't use a hammer - use a bench press... and yeah, only touch the center of the bearing - not the outer race or the bearings themselves... And the rest jeff said was correct.
You could've filed the syncro's and not had to buy new ones too I think... But oh well, peace of mind costs a little $... And yeah, the easiest thing to do is to reassemble the tranny and then when you flip it over/ shake it a little that little lock inside will keep everything aligned just right... Just make sure to put a screwdriver through the shift linkage hole and test out all the gears... Trust me, you're almost there!
Anyway, make sure you replace that pinion nut... seems like the old one doesn't like to go back on... Also, don't use a hammer - use a bench press... and yeah, only touch the center of the bearing - not the outer race or the bearings themselves... And the rest jeff said was correct.

You could've filed the syncro's and not had to buy new ones too I think... But oh well, peace of mind costs a little $... And yeah, the easiest thing to do is to reassemble the tranny and then when you flip it over/ shake it a little that little lock inside will keep everything aligned just right... Just make sure to put a screwdriver through the shift linkage hole and test out all the gears... Trust me, you're almost there!
Anyway, make sure you replace that pinion nut... seems like the old one doesn't like to go back on... Also, don't use a hammer - use a bench press... and yeah, only touch the center of the bearing - not the outer race or the bearings themselves... And the rest jeff said was correct. 
You could've filed the syncro's and not had to buy new ones too I think... But oh well, peace of mind costs a little $... And yeah, the easiest thing to do is to reassemble the tranny and then when you flip it over/ shake it a little that little lock inside will keep everything aligned just right... Just make sure to put a screwdriver through the shift linkage hole and test out all the gears... Trust me, you're almost there!

You could've filed the syncro's and not had to buy new ones too I think... But oh well, peace of mind costs a little $... And yeah, the easiest thing to do is to reassemble the tranny and then when you flip it over/ shake it a little that little lock inside will keep everything aligned just right... Just make sure to put a screwdriver through the shift linkage hole and test out all the gears... Trust me, you're almost there!
... where does it go? It had 2 pieces of rather thick wire on it, that was scary! 
[Modified by sackdz, 5:15 AM 12/31/2001]
look at the pic above... The two magnets fit into a holder that slides into a slot that is between the 2nd and 3rd bolt holes on the bottom of the case if counting from right to left.
Thanks, I found where they go, the service manual makes no mention of them.
When the magnet fell out it had 4-5" of what looked like broken wire, or metal gasket type stuff. I have no i dea wha tthis is, I'll try and post a pic.
When the magnet fell out it had 4-5" of what looked like broken wire, or metal gasket type stuff. I have no i dea wha tthis is, I'll try and post a pic.
glad you cleared everything up.
anyone know what the hell the friction damper does other than "damp friction"....
like, can someone put this in some simple terms my ******* brain can understand physically...
D
anyone know what the hell the friction damper does other than "damp friction"....
like, can someone put this in some simple terms my ******* brain can understand physically...
D
like, can someone put this in some simple terms my ******* brain can understand physically...
D
D
You are an endless supply of quotes.
Sorry,i can['t answer your q

[Modified by sackdz, 6:28 PM 12/31/2001]
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