spark problem (help)
it's a 93 hatch with b16....there no power coming to the blk/yel wire from inside the car. when i connect the dist direct to the battey the car runs just fine. i switched the main relay nothing what could it be..thanks for any help
do you have any cels after you got it running? cause eld also have the blk/yel wire go thru it before it go thru the main relay. maybe you need to trace down the wire come from the battery to under hood fuse box wht/blk wire to wht wire, to the ignition blk/yel, the ignition and the ignitor.
Have you checked for continuity for the blk\yel wire to make sure there is no cuts or breaks in the wire, thus disabling a current from running throught that wire.
Because the helms says that igniton output signal means there is a problem with the signal circuit.
heres what the helms says to do:
-reset ecu
-try to start (if the engine won't start, it may take 20 seconds of cranking to set the code
-if you get the cel 15 again, turn off ignition switch
-Dissconnect the 2 pin connector from the dizzy
-turn ignition switch on and measure the voltage between the blk\yel terminal and body ground
-if there is no voltage then repair the open in the blk\yel wire between the 2 pin connector and ignition switch (WHICH IS WHAT I WAS SAYING)
-if there is voltage then turn off ignition switch and reconnect the 2 pin connector
-then check for voltage (with ignition switch on) between A21 (+), A22(+) terminals on the ecu and A26 (-)
-if there is ~10V between both circuits the substitue in a working ecu
-if there isn't ~10V then either: replace igniter unit or Repair open or short in Yel\Grn wire between igniter unit and ECU (a21, a22) (Also if yel\grn is shorted, the igniter unit may be damaged as well)
Hope this helps, because if not your **** out of luck, because this info is straight from the Honda Helms guide (section 11-72), which is exactly what the techs at honda dealerships use. I got mine through a 10 yr tech at honda.
Modified by turboxsi at 12:06 PM 11/28/2004
Because the helms says that igniton output signal means there is a problem with the signal circuit.
heres what the helms says to do:
-reset ecu
-try to start (if the engine won't start, it may take 20 seconds of cranking to set the code
-if you get the cel 15 again, turn off ignition switch
-Dissconnect the 2 pin connector from the dizzy
-turn ignition switch on and measure the voltage between the blk\yel terminal and body ground
-if there is no voltage then repair the open in the blk\yel wire between the 2 pin connector and ignition switch (WHICH IS WHAT I WAS SAYING)
-if there is voltage then turn off ignition switch and reconnect the 2 pin connector
-then check for voltage (with ignition switch on) between A21 (+), A22(+) terminals on the ecu and A26 (-)
-if there is ~10V between both circuits the substitue in a working ecu
-if there isn't ~10V then either: replace igniter unit or Repair open or short in Yel\Grn wire between igniter unit and ECU (a21, a22) (Also if yel\grn is shorted, the igniter unit may be damaged as well)
Hope this helps, because if not your **** out of luck, because this info is straight from the Honda Helms guide (section 11-72), which is exactly what the techs at honda dealerships use. I got mine through a 10 yr tech at honda.
Modified by turboxsi at 12:06 PM 11/28/2004
OK, I TRACE THE BLK/YEL TO THE FIRE WALL RUN IT FROM THERE CAR STARTS..IT MUST BE SOMETHING INSIDE THE CAR IT'S SELF..DOES ANY ONE KNOW WHAT SENDS POWER TO THE DIST FROM INSIDE? THANKS FOR THE HELP SO FAR..
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Try what the helms asks for i posted above for the code you have. But could be your ignitor switch (where you put the key in) thats gone bad and isn't completing the circuit. Because from the firewall to the engine it sounds like you are ok and the only other things would be main relay and ignition switch. Or ignitor in dizzy is bad and you are just arching a current across it with the battary hooked straight to the dizzy (not good).
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