I have these Ohlins, i dont know the model, but on top theres a **** that you can turn to adjust stiffness, however the ***** were broken so i dont know if its 5 sets or 6 or more...but whatever the case, im going to set it all the way to as soft as possible, how many clicks do you guys recomend for front and rear as how clicks of stiffness or maybe the ratio, 4 in the front 2 in the back, etc...thx i have 25mm front 23mm rear sway btw

 

clicks for what?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">clicks for what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

on top of most coilover systems theres a lil button that you turn and each time it clicks or dials in at a certain stiffness setting, since i dont have the ****, i can only feel/listen to the click/dials

 

Put it on the setting that feels right. What is it with all the people buying these busted, worn out JDM shocks lately?

 

click, click, click..... turn it to 11... burn down the neighborhood.

 

Ohlins is not busted JDM *****.

 

ja, ja... dey are frum sveeden

Wouldn't the first place to ask be with the manufacturer, especially if you don't know the model, they would have better luck accurately identifying it and giving a definitive answer (especially if there's something unique about it).

...It took about a minute to Google Ohlins and dl this .pdf http://www.ohlins.com/pdf/07450-01.pdf (specifically for the "Car, Road and Track" models) from http://www.ohlins.com/car_manuals.shtml.

Page 5-6:
"Setting the damping
The adjusting possibilities of Öhlins shock absorbers
facilitate fine setting. You can optimize
adjustments to suit your own vehicles weight and
equipment, your individual way of driving and the
condition of the road. To be able to improve the
road holding qualities it is of the utmost importance
that you fully understand the functioning
of the shock absorbers. Then you can learn by
trial and error how they affect the vehicle.

Depending on the model there are adjustments
for damping forces; rebound damping and compression
damping. Damping is set with a ****
with a normal right-hand thread (Fig 6). By turning
clockwise they increase the damping action
and counter clockwise they reduce it. The ****
has definite positions with a noticeable “click”,
so it is easy to count to the right setting. On some
models compression and rebound damping are
set individually (Fig 7).

NOTE!
When making new adjustments it is easiest to go
back to zero, and then count forward to the new
setting. The adjusting **** should not be
screwed in too hard. Never use tools when attempting
to adjust the shock absorber. The adjustment
should be made when the shock absorber
is cold.

Setting your vehicle
By utilizing the adjustment possibilities you can
test by trial and error, and learn how they affect
your vehicle.
Always begin by test driving with all adjustments
at their basic setting. Choose a short run
of varying character, ie, long and sharp bends,
hard and soft bumps. Keep to the same run and
adjust only one setting at a time.
Setting the damping
If the vehicle feels unstable, loose and rather
bouncy then the damping should be increased.
If the vehicle is hard and bumpy, especially over
a series of bumps, then the damping should be
reduced.
If the vehicle feels soft, has low riding position
and a tendency to bottom easily in long dips then
the damping should be increased. If the vehicle
feels harsh and has hard resilience, eg, over
changes in the road paving, then the damping
must be reduced.
Begin by turning the adjusting **** two (2) steps
(clicks). Test run again and adjust one (1) step
back if it affects the vehicle too much.
When you have sufficient feel of the vehicle
then you can make further fine adjustments. It is
feeling and experience that counts.

NOTE!
Ensure that the springs are in good conditions
and properly preloaded before attempting to
make any adjustments.

NOTE!
Always begin with the basic settings recommended
by Öhlins. Always make notes, adjust in
small steps and make only one adjustment at a
time. Adjustments should be made with max. two
steps (clicks) at a time. Do not shut adjuster more
than one click from fully closed.
When you feel that you have achieved an improvement,
go back to where you started and
check once more. Be observant of other relevant
factors such as tyres, temperature, etc. Test run
to make sure whether further fine adjustment
should be made.

CAUTION!
When suspension components are exchanged it
is of greatest importance that the wheel
alignments are checked."


Modified by XrcR6 at 9:02 PM 11/26/2004

 

Or you could just turn them all the way counter clockwise (probably soft) and go drive around and then turn them all the way clockwise (probably firm) and go drive around. I doubt they would have some other strange method other then vice verse what I listed.

Or you could jump on the rad support or lick them. That always works too.

 

You don't need a "****" if you look into the top of the shaft it should look like a Allen key head...use a allen key to adj the damping. There should be around 22 clicks on those if I rember correctly.

I don't know what car those are for but the Ohlins I had similar to that model are basic street shocks and don't like to be lowered more then 1/2 inch. The rear shaft bottoms out WAY too early and you have to run the full bumpstop which is ridiculosly tall. I didn't even use the rears after I saw the rear travel.

Actually those might even be mine who knows how many owners mine have been through

Oh yeah take off the springs and make sure none are blown , some people use the valve on the bottom to refill em with gas if they find a blown one and sell em like that...problem is theres no fluid in the thing.


Modified by 89civicdx at 7:37 PM 11/27/2004