As I am about to get started assembling my oil cooling system, two questions came to mind:

1- when you first install it, did you fill the radiator with oil prior to hooking up all the lines? ditto with the remote oil filter? or did you just let the system purge itself of air as the engine ran.

2- when you change the oil, how do you empty the oil radiator? There must be a couple of quarts of oil in the system, and I'm guessing that not all of it comes out when you remove the oil pan drain plug.

3- when filling the engine with oil, should I add the regular amount of oil, run it a little bit, to fill the oiling system with oil. Then add some more to top off (2, 3 extra quart?) Or just overfill it by 2 or 3 quarts right off the bat before starting the engine? Keep in mind my engine has never been started... and has sat in my garage, dry, for about 9 months so far.

thanks

 

what i did when i installed one for a customer
was leave the spark plugs out, so there wouldn't build pressure in the cylinders, and therefor not put stress on the bearings

prime the oil pump with the starter several times
check the oil level, and add more oil as necessary

I wouldn't just dump 3 extra quarts of oil in there


as far as oil changes, ive heard of one person, making a small hole in the oil filter, and running compressed air thru it to purge the cooler and the lines of oil

 

1. Yes, yes, NO. But there is another way...

2. Disconnect a line as close to the lowest point of the system as you can. Also, do your oil changes with the oil hot.

3. Both of the options you describe leave you running the risk of no oil at the bearings for a bit during start-up. You need to try to fill from the lowest point of the system upward, so it kind of depends where you mount the heat exchanger.

It might be a good idea to see about building an oil pump spinner (I don't know how the drive works on a Honda) or disconnect the pertinent electrics (so the injectors aren't squiting and the plugs aren't firing) and turn the engine over on the starter to prime it completely.

The "other option" is to not change ALL of the oil when you do oil changes. I don't adhere to the "change it every race" doctrine that most people do so I'm comfortable changing just the amount of oil that drains from the pan. That's just me, though.

K

 

thanks for the inputs guys.
I'll fill the filter and rad upon final assembly
Remove plugs and disconnect injectors - crank a few times and top off oil
I tend to also not be all that **** about changing all the oil every time the car runs, and I was leaning towards just changing what comes out the pan, often.

thanks again, and happy day-after-turkey-day.

Sebastien, enjoying a 4-day weekend - I might even get some work done on the race car...

 

here's an update after about 2 hours worth of work, as I try to type with pieces of stainless steel strands embedded under my fingernails... ouch.

Note the fancy tie-wrap mounting of the cooler, it's temporary, I haven't figured out how to mount it more solidly yet. Also, I have not tightened any of the connections, this is just a dry run to make sure all the hoses are the right length, etc. I don't think you could do that with the water radiator in place.

Anyway, here are the pics.





Note that I had not ordered a nipple to mount the oil filter... It is currently on its way from Pegasus. Grrr.





I am glad that I opverbought on the AN connectors as I had to use two 45deg angles, instead of the 90deg that I had planned. If anyone need two 90deg connectors and two straight throughs, let me know. All that and I have exactly one foot of line left over. Phew!

 

What did that set-up run you SJR?

 

I can give you exact figures on monday, but if memory serves, about $350.

 

Looks good Sebastien.

I ran my filter and plumbing all around to the transmission side as I was concerned about not having enough room on the engine side to get past the drive pulleys and belts cleanly. The only issue this created was difficulty getting lines in front and around the radiator as there are few holes in the core support and the rad does not leave much gap to the bulkhead to safely get around without risking abraiding the lines.

Now that my car will not have as high strung an engine from the class and spec change, I decided to do the initial shakedowns without the extra oil systems and Accusump so reduce potential complicaions. I never ran an oil cooler on the ITA cars and only people I spoke to who ran them in high altitude Colorado or super hot Southwest really felt they were needed. I ran M-O on a 110-112 degree weekends and the egine was fine although the driver and crew nearly melted.

 

Fill as much of the lines, cooler, and filter as you can. It is a slow, messy job, then spin without plugs, and injectors, every little bit helps. To fill the whole system just on the starter has to many things turning for to long with out oil pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fill as much of the lines, cooler, and filter as you can. It is a slow, messy job, then spin without plugs, and injectors, every little bit helps. To fill the whole system just on the starter has to many things turning for to long with out oil pressure. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If knowing how big of a PITA it is to get the adapter for the oil lines onto the GSR block wasn't enough to convince me, the above sure is. If/when the H3 car gets an oil cooler, OPM will be installing it.

40+ weekends in the log book without one and still counting ...

 

you know, other than the shard of metal in my fingertips, it hasn't been all that bad. So far I have about 3 hours of real work into it, plus the couple of hours it took researching and planning it. Granted, I still have to fill it, but I don't think it's going to be that big of a deal - I will fill the rad and filter, but not the lines. I am nervous, though. I will be keeping an eye on all those connections like a hawk when I first start the engine.
Of course, on a D16 without the exhaust header in the way, there are all kinds of room to work with. Sure helps.

 

SJR, Nice job. Here's another pointer... be sure to protect EVERYTHING from those braided lines. The bumps and vibrations while driving the car turn those braided lines into hacksaws that will eventually cut through each other, wiring harnesses, heater hoses, etc.

Short pieces of 3/4" dia rubber hose, slit lengthwise and wrapped around the braided stuff, then ty-wrapped to strategic points does the trick.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPiFF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If knowing how big of a PITA it is to get the adapter for the oil lines onto the GSR block wasn't enough to convince me, the above sure is. If/when the H3 car gets an oil cooler, OPM will be installing it. </TD></TR></TABLE>



Zsolt, the oil cooler on my GS-R was the most hateful job I've ever done on any car, ever. Save money if you need to, and have Trevor and the guys do it for you. You'll be glad you did.

Sebastien, I'm sure the D motors are a little different. At least I would hope so.

 

Nice post, I'm planning on installing a Oil Cooler I just purchased from one
of our Honda-tech sponsers so this is a valuable info.

 

For those who wish to tackle this job themselves, removing the intake manifold improves access to the back of the block for adapter plate mounting and plumbing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Track rat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For those who wish to tackle this job themselves, removing the intake manifold improves access to the back of the block for adapter plate mounting and plumbing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

nah! They should just dump the B-engine, and join theranks of the D-engines in H4 and H5. easier, cheaper, well, and somewhat slower.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Track rat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SJR, Nice job. Here's another pointer... be sure to protect EVERYTHING from those braided lines. The bumps and vibrations while driving the car turn those braided lines into hacksaws that will eventually cut through each other, wiring harnesses, heater hoses, etc.

Short pieces of 3/4" dia rubber hose, slit lengthwise and wrapped around the braided stuff, then ty-wrapped to strategic points does the trick.</TD></TR></TABLE>

PLEASE TAKE THIS TO HEART. Just this past weekend, I found one of mine oil lines to be rubbing a little againts a motor mount. I've went through all my oil lines and fuel lines that could even touch anything and added some rubber hose tywrapped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPiFF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If knowing how big of a PITA it is to get the adapter for the oil lines onto the GSR block wasn't enough to convince me, the above sure is. If/when the H3 car gets an oil cooler, OPM will be installing it.

40+ weekends in the log book without one and still counting ...</TD></TR></TABLE>

So was it the "Messy" part that made you think you didn't want to do it, or was it the "work" factor?
Just want to clear that up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPiFF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If knowing how big of a PITA it is to get the adapter for the oil lines onto the GSR block wasn't enough to convince me, the above sure is. If/when the H3 car gets an oil cooler, OPM will be installing it.

40+ weekends in the log book without one and still counting ...</TD></TR></TABLE>

The spin on adapter is a real PITA to install. However, the Canton Racing adapter is so easy to install due to different design. Much more expensive, but it is worth every penny IMHO. Saved me about 1/2 hour fiddling and swearing!