Swapping out ITR pistons for CTR pistons on new ITR short block?
I'm going to be getting a new ITR short block for my project and was wondering what exactly will need to be done to swap out the ITR pistons for CTR's?
This is what I've read so far:
Drop oil pan
Remove oil pickup
remove bearing cap bridge
remove connecting rod bolts
remove connecting rod and pistons assembly
Here is where my questions start:
-Can I just swap the rings on the ITR pistons to the CTR pistons?
-Will I need to recheck ring gap in the cylinders?
-Do I need to bring the Piston/rod assembly to a machine shop to swap the pistons?
-Will I need new gaskets? Oil pan, ect.
-stretch gauge or Torque spec?
-do you lube the bolts with motor oil or something else before assembly?
Anything else?
This is what I've read so far:
Drop oil pan
Remove oil pickup
remove bearing cap bridge
remove connecting rod bolts
remove connecting rod and pistons assembly
Here is where my questions start:
-Can I just swap the rings on the ITR pistons to the CTR pistons?
-Will I need to recheck ring gap in the cylinders?
-Do I need to bring the Piston/rod assembly to a machine shop to swap the pistons?
-Will I need new gaskets? Oil pan, ect.
-stretch gauge or Torque spec?
-do you lube the bolts with motor oil or something else before assembly?
Anything else?
This is assuming you meant brand new itr block and brand new ctr pistons.
You dont need to remove the bearing cap bridge.
Yes you can swap the new rings from the itr to the ctr.
Honda rings are pre gapped and you wont need to check the gaps for this situation.
Yes you need to have the old pistons pressed off the rods and the new ones pressed on.
Its a good Idea to replace the oil pan gasket but isnt 100% needed.
Replace the paper gasket between the oil pan pickup and pump.
When you re torque the pickup tube bolts apply some locktite, I have seen them loosen and motors blow.
Yes you need a tq wrench, dont use a 59 dollar special either.. Rod bolts have to be tqed properly or you will have issues down the road.
Lube the rod bearings, rod bolt threads. Locktite the oil pickup tube bolts. blue is good, red is not needed(locktite)
You will need to clock the rings once on the pistons, Eric's thread had a diagram of this
You will need a piston ring compressor to reinstall the pistons.
Be carefull when installing them that you dont just push them in all the way so you con rod doesnt smash into the crank.
You dont need to remove the bearing cap bridge.
Yes you can swap the new rings from the itr to the ctr.
Honda rings are pre gapped and you wont need to check the gaps for this situation.
Yes you need to have the old pistons pressed off the rods and the new ones pressed on.
Its a good Idea to replace the oil pan gasket but isnt 100% needed.
Replace the paper gasket between the oil pan pickup and pump.
When you re torque the pickup tube bolts apply some locktite, I have seen them loosen and motors blow.
Yes you need a tq wrench, dont use a 59 dollar special either.. Rod bolts have to be tqed properly or you will have issues down the road.
Lube the rod bearings, rod bolt threads. Locktite the oil pickup tube bolts. blue is good, red is not needed(locktite)
You will need to clock the rings once on the pistons, Eric's thread had a diagram of this
You will need a piston ring compressor to reinstall the pistons.
Be carefull when installing them that you dont just push them in all the way so you con rod doesnt smash into the crank.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is assuming you meant brand new itr block and brand new ctr pistons.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes!
Thanks for the info
Modified by 6ghatch at 7:54 PM 11/26/2004
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes!
Thanks for the info
Modified by 6ghatch at 7:54 PM 11/26/2004
you might need to borrow a rod strech gauge if you dont have one because the factory manual gives you a strech figure that is more acturate. i believe the type r is the only one that calls for it in the manual.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R@mon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might need to borrow a rod stretch gauge if you don't have one because the factory manual gives you a stretch figure that is more accurate. i believe the type r is the only one that calls for it in the manual.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, but will the stretch specs be the same since the rod bolts have been stretched once before? Are rod bolts like head bolts and can only be stretched/torqued once?
OK, but will the stretch specs be the same since the rod bolts have been stretched once before? Are rod bolts like head bolts and can only be stretched/torqued once?
to be completely honest im not sure, ill have to check on the in.acura.com network and let you know. ill post the answer once i find it.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R@mon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to be completely honest im not sure, ill have to check on the in.acura.com network and let you know. ill post the answer once i find it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks!
Anyone else?
Thanks!
Anyone else?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R@mon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to be completely honest im not sure, ill have to check on the in.acura.com network and let you know. ill post the answer once i find it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didnt think any OE honda rod bolts had the dimples for a stretch gauge? Anyone know if this is true?
I didnt think any OE honda rod bolts had the dimples for a stretch gauge? Anyone know if this is true?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 743power »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I didnt think any OE honda rod bolts had the dimples for a stretch gauge? Anyone know if this is true?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know the ITR rod bolts call for a stretch gauge spec, so I'd guess they are compatible.
Anyone else know?
I didnt think any OE honda rod bolts had the dimples for a stretch gauge? Anyone know if this is true?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know the ITR rod bolts call for a stretch gauge spec, so I'd guess they are compatible.
Anyone else know?
I have a set of itrs right here and they do indeed have the dimples for a stretch gauge... anyone know the stretch spec?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tbone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a set of itrs right here and they do indeed have the dimples for a stretch gauge... anyone know the stretch spec?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the spec, it's .13-.15mm (.005-.006in). Thanks
I'd still like to know if the strech guage technique is only good with unused rod bolts????
I have the spec, it's .13-.15mm (.005-.006in). Thanks
I'd still like to know if the strech guage technique is only good with unused rod bolts????
Update: Looks as if I will need to send the rods and pistons out to JE Import Performance to get the pistons swapped out on the rods. All of the local machine shops around are setup for only larger domestic piston pins or don't want to work on "Honda's". Or they want to heat the rod, a process I'm not comfortable with.
Since the engine is new and I don't want to plasti gauge, how should I label the rods as to what cylinder they came out of?
Also, It looks as if I will need to take the bearing cap bridge off to be able to use the stretch gauge.
Since the engine is new and I don't want to plasti gauge, how should I label the rods as to what cylinder they came out of?
Also, It looks as if I will need to take the bearing cap bridge off to be able to use the stretch gauge.
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