Thats my dilemna right now. Boosting 15psi and spending absolutely most of my budget on going turbo. Or just spending a few hundred to modify my dry zex kit to make it a direcot port and spray a 150 shot

Ive got a D16a6, fully built head. SRP 10:1 pistons, eagle rods, venom intake manifold....

Now if I went nitrous I could afford, brakes, suspension, new wheels....

But Im also fairly sure that my car at 15psi VS the 150shot, the nitrous would absolutely destory it in the 1/4.... the car is daily driven and would only be on 93-94 octane.

Who has some insight

 

a boosted car would be more fun to drive around town and such IMO. Seems to me like 15psi would be safer than a 150 shot but im no nitrous expert.

 

the 150 shot would romp on a nitrous vehicle. cuz theres virtually no lag and it provides a strong power band as well as GOBS of torque.

 

i would rather have 10 psi than a 150 shot.... turbo owns NO2.

i plan on running 15+ psi setup next spring. if yoy budget yourself you can make a decent setup for cheap. But if you only want to run the car in the 1/4 then i guess no2 would work but as said above turbo is fun all the time!

 

Well for one, for an unexpierienced person with boost, it would have been my first setup and running such a complicated system wouldnt have of worked. Plus if somethign went wrong, there is not a single shop in my area that does anything of the sort. I live in bumfuck town, knowone has performance except for the stock cobras and z06's.

Even for just scooting around town, 10.3:1 compression or so plus a fully built head, venom intake mani, probably a bisimoto header and a 3" side exit exhaust would still be pretty quick and fun. But with a few changes I could add 150hp and hope she dont blow lol

If I blow it up, whatever, its all in the learning curve, I know Id blow some ringlands or rings with turbo.

Management is the only thing I mayhave some trouble with, I have a wideband but knowone makes a nice system for obd0

 

go with a turbo. You will have power all the time and not have to constantly refill a bottle. Unless you have a drag only car I think turbo would be way more fun. Also for obd0 fuel managment you should check out turboedit. Its like uberdata where you chip your ecu.

 

Well if you think about it a 10lb bottle on a 150 shot doesn't last too long as we know already and at about $40 a fill, it doesn't take long before you spend more on the NO2 than the turbo setup. Now, lets say that you go through a bottle every weekend, in less than a year you could have afforded the turbo, that's saying that you pieced together a turbo kit for $1500 (easily done) which would equal about 37 bottle fills and 52 weeks in a year... I'd go with the turbo (plus you'd have boost every time you touch the gas)

 

Just think of how slow your car was N/A in relation to how fast it is currently with the turbo. It will be that slow 99% of the time if you go nitrous. If you're thinking you will just spray any time you wish to go fast, think of how much money you are going to spend on refilling the bottle. The only way I would spray would be on my daily driver when I just wanted some fun on Saturday night, or if it was purely a track car.

 

on a b-series n2o is nice, but the d-series needs more for everyday driving. that said a d15vtec can do 13.1 in totally stock form with juice (that's 170whp total with juice). if you have the zex kit already, build a turbo kit with a little cheaper turbo and no ic to save $ and use the zex as you intercooler with the higher weekend boost setting

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RMS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on a b-series n2o is nice, but the d-series needs more for everyday driving. that said a d15vtec can do 13.1 in totally stock form with juice (that's 170whp total with juice). if you have the zex kit already, build a turbo kit with a little cheaper turbo and no ic to save $ and use the zex as you intercooler with the higher weekend boost setting </TD></TR></TABLE>

That would be a large step backwards.

 

There has to be a reason why the fastest 4cyl use turbo rather than nos.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RMS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if you have the zex kit already, build a turbo kit with a little cheaper turbo and no ic to save $ and use the zex as you intercooler with the higher weekend boost setting </TD></TR></TABLE>


I say don't give people advice on topics that you have no personal experience with

What does an intercooler do? It only lowers charge temps, and allows you to run more boost and timing, or reduce your octane level. What does nitrous do? Drops IAT's marginally, but requires you to pull timing or add more octane. It's a double negative. A 50 horsepower hit of nitrous might drop IAT's 10 degrees, HARDLY what an intercooler does, and then you blow right past any gains you might have gotten from dropping your IAT's 10 degrees due to the fact that the nitrous increases cylinder pressures and temps.

 

Id say, save and do it right. If you need bakes you shouldn't do either one anyways. same w/ if you had bad tires. I ran a 100 shot on my b20 and I ran a turbo kit w/ 8psi, Slips below

100shot of nitrous (NOS dry) B20b
i/h/Testpipe/exhaust SAFC tuned 440's, Gutted, 2190lbs w/ me in it

r/t .009
60 2.074
330 5.642
1/8 8.560
mph 84.53
1000 11.081
1/4 13.224
mph 105.23


TUrbo kit, 8psi B20b
FMU 12:1, pump, missing link. Untuned
2350lbs w/ me in it, full interior, full tank of gas.

r/t .086
60 2.031
330 5.432
1/8 8.237
mph 87.11
1000 10.671
1/4 12.728
mph 110.50

I'll never go allmotor or spray again. Boost is adictive.
I spent a lot on nitrous, I filled my bottle a good 30-40 times. times that by $40 each. PLus i missed out on A LOT of nice races and was stuck saying... damn i wish i had my bottle ... or Damn i wish i could have got my bottle filled.. or Damn i waisted $40 on a SHITTY fill. With boost its always there but even better

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM S1eeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Id say, save and do it right. If you need bakes you shouldn't do either one anyways. same w/ if you had bad tires. I ran a 100 shot on my b20 and I ran a turbo kit w/ 8psi, Slips below

100shot of nitrous (NOS dry) B20b
i/h/Testpipe/exhaust SAFC tuned 440's, Gutted, 2190lbs w/ me in it

r/t .009
60 2.074
330 5.642
1/8 8.560
mph 84.53
1000 11.081
1/4 13.224
mph 105.23


TUrbo kit, 8psi B20b
FMU 12:1, pump, missing link. Untuned
2350lbs w/ me in it, full interior, full tank of gas.

r/t .086
60 2.031
330 5.432
1/8 8.237
mph 87.11
1000 10.671
1/4 12.728
mph 110.50

I'll never go allmotor or spray again. Boost is adictive.
I spent a lot on nitrous, I filled my bottle a good 30-40 times. times that by $40 each. PLus i missed out on A LOT of nice races and was stuck saying... damn i wish i had my bottle ... or Damn i wish i could have got my bottle filled.. or Damn i waisted $40 on a SHITTY fill. With boost its always there but even better
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 Cam Wonder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If I blow it up, whatever, its all in the learning curve, I know Id blow some ringlands or rings with turbo.

Management is the only thing I mayhave some trouble with, I have a wideband but knowone makes a nice system for obd0
</TD></TR></TABLE>

with good tuning you dont have to worry about your ringlands, try http://www.turboedit.org great free obd0 software. I ran it last season and had no problems

 

i'll make this quick, just go turbo. The power will be there when you need it, and ontop of that you can only run nitrous in spurts otherwise you start melting ****. it's much more worth it to invest the money in a turbos etup especially since u have a built motor already . . . . it will be much more enjoyable for you.

 

one thing most people dont consider when thinking ONLY about power, is this. you cant control 150 shot in the 60ft. even with slicks on such a light weight car its hard to keep it to the ground.....unless you use a progressive controler, which i dont htink is an option you can use on a zex kit......but with boost you have a littel more control in the 60 ft with usable power............i have BOTH types of cars and i have been using NOS for about 12 years.

heres an idea, use BOTH turbo and spray.......i have a fully built turbo motor and spray a 30 shot on it.............its FUC&ing insane the power and torque it creates

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM S1eeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Id say, save and do it right. If you need bakes you shouldn't do either one anyways. same w/ if you had bad tires. I ran a 100 shot on my b20 and I ran a turbo kit w/ 8psi, Slips below

100shot of nitrous (NOS dry) B20b
i/h/Testpipe/exhaust SAFC tuned 440's, Gutted, 2190lbs w/ me in it

r/t .009
60 2.074
330 5.642
1/8 8.560
mph 84.53
1000 11.081
1/4 13.224
mph 105.23


TUrbo kit, 8psi B20b
FMU 12:1, pump, missing link. Untuned
2350lbs w/ me in it, full interior, full tank of gas.

r/t .086
60 2.031
330 5.432
1/8 8.237
mph 87.11
1000 10.671
1/4 12.728
mph 110.50

I'll never go allmotor or spray again. Boost is adictive.
I spent a lot on nitrous, I filled my bottle a good 30-40 times. times that by $40 each. PLus i missed out on A LOT of nice races and was stuck saying... damn i wish i had my bottle ... or Damn i wish i could have got my bottle filled.. or Damn i waisted $40 on a SHITTY fill. With boost its always there but even better
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Amen brother

 

chip, i doubt anyone on this thread has near the experience i have with n2o on a honda...350+whp on a stock sleeve b20 for over a year ingesting HUNDREDS of pounds of juice without a failure. also, no one has a n20 system as sophistocated as ours for the honda obdI ecu. so your own comment right back at you!

the guy wants input, a stratagy for a very limited budget. go turbo! or go nos! is hardly much help.

 

150 shot vs. 15 psi is a bad comparison. 15 psi on what turbo. Furthermore, you are going to want to tune for hp, not psi. I say spend the money and boost it. Sell your N2O and pay for good tuning. With those SRP's and Eagles there is no reason why you couldn't make well in excess of 300 hp with out and engine failure.

 

up to u but either way u r gonna be fast

 

You guys are acting like we all race 24 times a day.

N/A isnt going to be like my sohc zc right now, its going to be alot quicker and I already romp on most cars with just the dry 65 shot.

Bottle fills here are about $65 (canadian), Id say Id maybe fill it 5 times every TWO months or so. Work an overtime shift or two and it covers it.

To me, spraying a 150 shot is perfect, Im assuming Ill have about 150-160whp n/a
plus the 150to the wheels if not more on the bottle, plus the gobs of torque

Theres jsut so much **** I can see going wrong with turbo, so many mechanical pieces that can **** up, boost leaks, to much oil, oil in the charge pipes, charge pipes popping off, boost creep, running lean, shaft play, manifold cracking

<FONT SIZE="15">THEFT</FONT>

If people around here got there hands on a turbo known car smoking everyone, itd be gone in a day

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RMS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">chip, i doubt anyone on this thread has near the experience i have with n2o on a honda...350+whp on a stock sleeve b20 for over a year ingesting HUNDREDS of pounds of juice without a failure. also, no one has a n20 system as sophistocated as ours for the honda obdI ecu. so your own comment right back at you!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

What was your setup? I'm looking to do a nitrous setup soon. That's a little bit more power than I'm aiming for, but I'd like to know what kind of setup you had so I can get some ideas.

 

 

we have a pcb that mounts within the ecu using hondata AND extra inputs from within the ecu to switch to a second and third (2 stage) memory on the fly. allows huge DRY shots (see: very easy to hide) with the correct amount of fuel from the injectors tunable at each rpm point in the map (same for timing). no wet kit will give a linear a/f ratio, but this does. we've had this running for over two years now. i've even had customers pass at the cali ref with the system on their car (hard to detect, in fact single stage is nearly impossible to find within the engine compartment). if i'd get my *** in gear for testing, hondata has been good enough to provided us with a beta two stage control that takes manipulation/control to a whole new level while simplifying our circuit board install.

the b20 (crvtec) i'm refering to is a high mileage engine (no hone marks whatsoever visible) that had eagles and our custom je pistons (8.4:1) installed (with the old rings...budget deal) without removing the engine from the car. skunks with very mild head work. two stage set up with first in stock airbox and second direct port on botton of mani. hp was dynoed on a d'jet. car won money and respect at the races in LA though it's from out of the area.

another is a totally stock b16 that dynoed 260whp on a single stage. been running for a couple years (car we prototyped on).

lots of others at 225-250whp (peepee shots )

down side is we have to do the tuning at our shop...rather complicated and a small mistake even burning the chip can have disasterous results