i plan on replacing a few of my bushings when spring starts..i won't have time or manpower to do all the parts that come with the kit hyperflex kit so i'm thinking about replacing what i can...i'm wondering which parts of the suspension were easiest to do (without needing a machine or anything)?

i really want to focus on the most effective parts..i was planning on changing the front/rear upper and lower control arms and trailing arms and front swaybar...are these easy to do (i know the swaybar is lol)? any other parts that were easy or recommended to change?

i'm also planning on putting front and rear motor mount inserts as well

 

hyperflex = junk.

Get oem or mugen rubber.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hyperflex = junk.

Get oem or mugen rubber.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Care to explain? Besides the fact that you have 2 keep a few lubricated...

 

The reason most people don't like polyurethane is because it only allows movement in one direction. Since there is no ball joints in a civics rear suspension, the oem bushings are designed to move in multiple directions (like a spherical bering). If this system is defeated, your suspension will bind in certain situations. There is tons of info on this, but it can be hard to find. The biggest problems usually occur in the oversized rear trailing arm bushings. Since there is a toe link controling the arms movement, that bushing is forced to move in all kinds of crazy directions. Poly-no-workie in there...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> There is tons of info on this, but it can be hard to find.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just search......

 

maybe you guys can help me out

the upper left and right bushings on my SPC rear camber kits are really worn out, to the point where with the car on jack, you can move the wheels and see the gap and the play

i had the kit on for about 5 month on JIC coilovers, in that time, i have done 7 track days, 3 autoX, and about 50 nights of canyon running(safe cruise)

is this normal, due to wear and tear?

do i just keep replacing the camber kit or can i get something else in place of the rubber bushing

rear suspension setup:

zero toe
1.5 neg degree camber
JIC coilvers
Progress sway bar
cusco rear strut bar

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The reason most people don't like polyurethane is because it only allows movement in one direction. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Your argument only applies to the trailing arm bushing. There are differing opinions about using them in other spots. For one, they're much more cost-effective than any other solution.

 

yea i was searching about the trailer arm while posting..i'm plannin on just using oem for the trailer arm and poly on the control arms...but are there other important suspension components i should replace?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Your argument only applies to the trailing arm bushing. There are differing opinions about using them in other spots. For one, they're much more cost-effective than any other solution.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was gonna say, that sounds like the RTA argument (and I agree, which is why I have the Mugen RTAs rather than the poly version). However, I'm running prothane poly bushings in the whole rear suspension otherwise (except for an offset solid upper, outer, rear CA bushing) and I'm very pleased with the results. On the other hand, I replaced all of my front bushings (except for the metal bearings in the front radius rods) with OEM. I have heard numerous complaints about the poly bushings up front.

My suggestion would be to not buy any kit and just buy what you need as you can install it. The hardest ones are the control arms in the front (both) without a press. The rear lower CAs can be tough too without a press (removal is hard, install is easy). The rear upper CAs are easier. The RTA can be done with a BFH, but I would have used a press if I had the option at the time. Radius rods don't need a press, nor do any of the sways or steering rack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by azian21485 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i was searching about the trailer arm while posting..i'm plannin on just using oem for the trailer arm and poly on the control arms...but are there other important suspension components i should replace?</TD></TR></TABLE>

going m00gen on the trailing arms, OEM everywhere else.

my question is: where is everywhere else ?

this would be on an EG btw.

 

Having just replaced all of my bushings, I can honestly say the only ones you can do without a hydraulic press are the anti-sway bar and toe link bushings. The rest definitely need to be pressed out.

 

I don't know if it would work, but Harbor Freight has a $100 i think 6 ton press, get that and then buy new rear lower arms with the bushigns already installed for about $65ea (bushigs would cost this much already from dealer) and then buy the bushings for the FLCA, two inner and two shock bushings. Then buy the RTA bushings, part number 52385-S21-003, this is the Honda part number, it will fit EG/DC2.

Thats what I plan to do, is get new RTA bushings, new RLCArms, new rubber bushings for the FLCA, and possibly delrin for the rear and front upper arms, new rubber for toe links, and poly for sway bar endlinks/D-bushings.