i have a 93 coupe ex with a stock honda tach. i have a jdm b16 with a chipped ecu with a rev limiter at 9500, i was thinkin that what if my stock tach was off? and i was reving higher than 8200 rpms? how would i know? i really wouldnt. is there any way to tell what the tach is really reading?

 

Other than getting an aftermarket tach, which I believe are a little more accurate, no. Stock tachs are usually off, and this is more true the higher in the RPM band you go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ****** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Other than getting an aftermarket tach, which I believe are a little more accurate, no. Stock tachs are usually off, and this is more true the higher in the RPM band you go.</TD></TR></TABLE>very true, my factory tach in my 97 civic ex is waaaaay off. i swapped in a 95 gs-r with a chipped p28, and the program i am running has no rev limit. i had been shifting where the factory tach says 8,000 and the engine always felt like it wanted to pull higher but i was afraid to over rev it.........until i bought an aftermarket tach, at 8,000 on the factory tach i was actually only revving 6,700 rpms on the aftermarket unit. by revving to 8,200 on the aftermarket tach(Auto Meter Pro Comp Ultra-Lite) my factory tahc needle was pointing straight down in the black

 

yeah but when doing this how do you know that the aftermarket tach isnt reading higher than it should and you are really reving higher than 8000? since you are pulling two tach signals. i have a shift light in my car and the pill is set to 8000 and i almost never see it light up, but i dont know if i should believe that it is reading 8000 rpms or if i should believe the tach, just a thought but how do you know which one to believe. and any advice on where to mount a tach in a 93 civic? i have a shift light mounted in the air vent on the drivers side and i dont want to block that. any advice on a neat place to put one?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16Civic93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah but when doing this how do you know that the aftermarket tach isnt reading higher than it should and you are really reving higher than 8000? since you are pulling two tach signals.</TD></TR></TABLE>engines don't like more rev than they are supposed to have, the valetrain starts to make noise if you rev it very high, i have misshifted a couple of times and the memory playback showed 9500+ rpms, and 10,000 once you can hear when it is in overrev......the noise will make your skin crawl

as far as a "neat" way to mount auto meter makes this dash mounted pod for your car i personally would use this if i had a 92-95, a friend of mine has one in his mustang that is just like it, the gauges are angled right at ya looks very clean also

 

yeah, i know the sound you are referring to, i was just wondering if you thought the shift light was more accurate than the tach? it is an autometer shift light, and sometimes the pills arent exactly accurate, and i dont know if the pill is inaccurate or if its the tach. btw i like that dash mount, where exactly does it mount? any idea on price?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16Civic93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, i know the sound you are referring to, i was just wondering if you thought the shift light was more accurate than the tach? it is an autometer shift light, and sometimes the pills arent exactly accurate, and i dont know if the pill is inaccurate or if its the tach. btw i like that dash mount, where exactly does it mount? any idea on price?</TD></TR></TABLE>not real sure about the accuracy of the pills, from what i understand they work on resestance(sp?)

and here is how the tach pod mounts


from summit you are looking at about $55.95
here is the link to it http://store.summitracing.com/...h+pod

hope this helps

 

yeah , the pills work off of resistance, but do you know of how accurate they are? anyone else know? i dont want to go off of that if its not accurate. is there any way to check it to see? btw thanks for the link

 

where did you tap into for your rpm signal for your shift light?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrokeAssWhiteboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not real sure about the accuracy of the pills, from what i understand they work on resestance(sp?)</TD></TR></TABLE>
i always thought they were crystals. the same way you pick a frequency to transmit on when building a radio?
stock tachs are off for your cars safety. i know my friend shifts his gsr at 8k, meaning he goes a bit over even tho stock limiter is at 8k. i had a vafc on my rs and tached up to 7. the vafc would read like 6800 on the peak-hold or whatever its called. almost 200rpm off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrokeAssWhiteboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where did you tap into for your rpm signal for your shift light?</TD></TR></TABLE>

into the blue wire in the left harness.

i dont think they work off crystals but resistance. and 200 rpms isnt that much, compared to what some people are off

 

anyone know if it is off or not?

 

all stock tachs are innacurate man.

BUT luckly for you, they usually read HIGHER than you're actually revving.

now that is USUALLY.

still, I don't like the idea of a 9.5k redline

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
still, I don't like the idea of a 9.5k redline
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wouldent like the idea of a 9.5K redline either if i had a single cam

 

No need for that huge *** tach in my opinion. Swap the cluster and get a stock unit that has a tach. The tachs (stock) are usually off by about 300rpms. That is, 8,300rpms would actually be 8,000 even. Again, this is a generalization.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No need for that huge *** tach in my opinion. Swap the cluster and get a stock unit that has a tach. The tachs (stock) are usually off by about 300rpms. That is, 8,300rpms would actually be 8,000 even. Again, this is a generalization.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds about right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sounds about right</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah that does sound about right, because if i watch the tach, the shift light doesnt come on till about 8200-8300 rpms, so i think i'm safe, thanks for teh info guys