Going from 12.0:1 - 14.0:1
I have this "problem". I can't decide if I want to rebuild my block with aftermarket sleeves and higher compression pistons. Right now I use this car for daily driving but in spring time next year I will get another Civic I can use for everyday driving. What is really tempting is the HP difference by just changing the pistons but this means I will have to buy 100 octane gas and that is serious expensive over here in Denmark. The other downside is I will have to rebuild the block at less miles and I think I will also have head gasket problems. The CRX I have the B20VTEC in will still be a street car and mainly used for drag racing but I can't decide if it's worth the 20-30 whp I may be getting. What do you guys think?
My setup will be:
B20B3 block bored/honed to 85 mm. (alternative Darton sleeves)
IB Spec Wiseco 12.0:1 pistons (alternative 85 mm IB Super Dupers or Ultimates)
Probe Industries Ultra Light rods
Hondata B16A heatshield
RLZ Stage2 B16A head
RPM Service 72 MM TB
IB Spec RLZ intake manifold
3" short ram with 6" vel. stack at the end
IB Spec cams
IB Spec valvetrain
IB Spec valves
Ad. cam gears
SMSP B20VTEC header
3" Carsound cat
3" Thermal cat back
7 lbs Clutch Masters flywheel
ACT 6 puck clutch with extreme pressure plate
B&M fpr.
Hondata S200 with P28 ECU
My setup will be:
B20B3 block bored/honed to 85 mm. (alternative Darton sleeves)
IB Spec Wiseco 12.0:1 pistons (alternative 85 mm IB Super Dupers or Ultimates)
Probe Industries Ultra Light rods
Hondata B16A heatshield
RLZ Stage2 B16A head
RPM Service 72 MM TB
IB Spec RLZ intake manifold
3" short ram with 6" vel. stack at the end
IB Spec cams
IB Spec valvetrain
IB Spec valves
Ad. cam gears
SMSP B20VTEC header
3" Carsound cat
3" Thermal cat back
7 lbs Clutch Masters flywheel
ACT 6 puck clutch with extreme pressure plate
B&M fpr.
Hondata S200 with P28 ECU
Like 185 whp but that's with stock B16A head, cams etc. I'm still missing all my head stuff from RLZ but I was told it has been shipped.
Man that sucks i am sorry to hear that i hope you get some answers her but my opinion is that 13:1 is nice and good enough and i don't think you need resleeving for that
congrats on that RLZ stuff.. IMO i would wait, throw the RLZ head on, and redyno. i dont think the jump in compression will be worth the time and labor execially when u wont be able to drive it daily anymore. it looks like you have an smsp header which will work great with the rlz head. just portmatch your IM and header before u throw that sucker on to get that last little HP out of ur setup and spray if u want that extra HP
Yes I will have the TB port matched to IM and also the header + IM to the head. Right now I don't think it's worth only 20 whp but if we talked about 40 whp it might be worth it. Let's see what it makes with this compression and maybe rebuild next winter. I guess I would also have to run ITB to take full advantage of the higher compression and that's not so great with Hondata.
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