ok so i have a weird idle and everything points to the cause being the fast idle thermo valve,....so i remove the tb and there is n fitv......i but i notice that under the stock gsr manifold, right next to where the tb bolts up it feels like there are 3 holes, and nothing in them. im wondering what goes there and if this may be a source of a vaccum leak, causing my erratic idle

 

can someone just lmk what bolts to the bottom of the manifold

 

I don't think anything goes into those holes. And as far as a FITV yes you do have one(unless it was removed). It's attatched to the throttle body. Coolant goes in/out of it. Its on the botom of the TB. Good luck.

 

i dont have one bc i removed the tb and there is nothing there where the coolant lines are, they are just there so my tb plate doesnt freeze. its just very frustrating bc it cold idles just fine, then when its all warmed up it jumps between 900-1400

 

What do you have an edelbrock tb? No sense in even running coolant through the TB if you don't have a FITV(it will do nothing but make the air charge hotter). But with that not being there your car should not cold idle at all. I don't have mine on and my car idles at about 750~900 roms cold or hot. Sucks on a cold morning I have to hold the throttle at 1500-2000 for a minute. If thats not the issue you probably either have a vacuum leak somewhere(use starting fluid to find it) or maybe your IAC is going bad.

 

no its a stock gsr tb....ive read alittle bit and it seems that obd0 and obd1 gsrs have the fitv on the tb, but the obd2 motors do not. where i life it can get quite cold so that coolant goigmng through the tb is helpful so i doesnt freeze up. but my car does cold start........do the obd2 gsr motors have the fitv somewhere else on the motor?

 

The way to tell if you have a leak on your intake mani or not is to spray carbc leaner or some othe rliquid on the seal. If it bubbles, you have a leak.

What about the IACV?

 

i dont think its iacv bc itonly has this erratic idle when it has warmed up.
see when i start it it idles fine at 1500, but then after its warmed up to normal temp it starts to jump from 900-1400

 

^^

 

can we have some pics of these 3 holes and some of your intake manifold area , throttle body, and under the throttle body area.

 

id love to take some, however the limited space under the manifold will not allow me to get a camera in there

 

ok Well I have a edelbrock tb. And it came with a block off plate to go in place of the FITV to plug the hole's. Im sure you would need somthing like this as well another idea would be to put it back on plug the coolent hole's and just leave the coolent line routed as you do now.

 

ok its like no one is reading what im saying.....my tb did not have, doesnot have, and never dod have a fitv. there are no holes for it to bolt on the tb, nor is there a hole in the tb for the air passage that the fitv uses
i have read that the obd2 gsr motors did not come with it on the tb......so i want to know if they are located else where on the manifold by chance , or were just not on the motor at all

 

ok didnt see that part so try this

Take your intake off and plug the small hole in the tb. Does the car die?


I had a similer problem and it was a vac leak for the reason I posted before (forgot to use the block off plate)

 

what block off plate

 

well that was the block off plate that went in place of the FITV


you should just take it off and take a pic of what your talking about its only 2 nuts 2 bolts and like 2 sensor plugs, and a throttle cable to take off the TB it would help everyone figure out what your talking about.

 

ok the holes i am talking about are NOT on the tb, they are on the bottom of the intake manifld, right next to the tb..........and there is no fitv on my tb, i kow this bc ive taken it off and examined it

 

^^^

 

ok man....if there are three holes at the bottom of IM if those three hole is hallow and see throw inside of the IM? if not those three holes are fine...

if they are hallow and see thro inside of IM they must be for vacuum lines....test them by blocking them and see how ur idle goes...if the idle runs back to normal then seal them up...if erratic idle still there...they are not the cause

what yr is ur GSR? OBD1 or 2...you did not say anything about it...wat IM do yoiu have...etc...technique stuff need more info from you

 

ok they are not hollow...i know they are not causing a vaccum leak...but they are there for a reason...all i want to know is what goes there? its a p72 head on a b16 block

 

^^

 

I just went out and checked my B18C which is on an engine stand. The FITV is on the bottom of the TB. So if yours is gone, there must be something there covering the holes.

 

Check your vaccum lines and map sensor.

Honda map sensors are known to take a ****.

 

ok i already swapped the map sensor with a known good one.....im not talking about holes on the tb, ill say it again the 3 holes of which i speak are on the bottom of the manifold, i just want to know what bolts there

 

first my bad for not keeping you updated..my verizon dsl is so focking lame....last 3days can't access to IE

at the bottom if IM the three holes are not hallow then dont worry about...most likely those holes are the bracket to hold or stablized the IM during engine vabration...so they are no the cause for sure only if they are not hallow..and you confirmed that..

IAC and FITV aint easy to get malfunction...cuz i opened them up and spray carb cleaner inside and they still work fine...so ur chances of messing it up is really small although the chance does exist...

IAC and FITV work before installation right....if they work before and doesn't work after a new IM installed then most likely:
there are only a couples of reasons idle is focked up..

1. most major one is gaskets leak (could be a wrong tb's gasket, never reuse used OEM gasket...compared new gasket vs old gasket are they identical? yes? then good, IM gasket too), clean all the left over or dirty shlts on the head and old TB,
2. for me there are exactly 4 vacuum lines as picture shows below.....and one of them i didn't use so i found a way to block them...there shouldn't be any unhooked up vacuum line all vacuum should be hooked up to its destination if for some reason you dont use them then you must block them...like i did
3. are all coolants lines correctly back to its orginal location?

here are the order of how to torque down the IM bolts...
welll for those who doesn't know the sequence...
pick a position where your view is.... for me...i stand at front of my car and bend over to look at the IM

here are the sequence of bolts (top has 5bolts and so bottom has 5)

1. top center
2. bottom center
3. left of top center
4. left of bottom center
5. right of bottom center
6. right of top center
7. right of #5 above
8. left of #3 above
9. last bolt on the right
10. last bolt on the left

here are the informatin from me...i made this check list while i had vacuum leak down of my TB, some check task are not require to perform,,,,so do what you can..
Disclaimer, I am not responsible for any damage caused by misunderstanding of my information...do not perform any task below if you think they are not safe...thankx

Erratic Idling Check Lists

( ) Vacuum lines leak?
( ) Check PCV, if bad or crack, then replace it,,,,
( ) Is Throttle blade full close? Yes, then good, No? then adjust TB’scable
( ) Throttle cable is tight? Then lose it, make sure tb’s blade if fully close to test for erratic idle
( ) Throttle bolts are tight? Torque spec are 20lbs each, I torqued at 23lbs diagonally
( ) Stock idle screw should be fine, don’t adjust it just if the idle act erractically
( ) Bleed coolant system, eliminates air buddle (very minor, but make sure there are enuff coolant)
( ) FITV, tighten screw inside of FITV (require to open up the FITV, at the same time clean it, don’t do it unless you have too, FITV is controlled by its merchanism, no easily fail to do what it should do, but if you want to open it up anyway go ahead, recommend to do this if have no choice)
( ) Feel the FITV hole (is the lower hole inside the TB), it shouldn’t sux too much air..just a little
( ) Block both FITV hole and SIAC (SIAC hole on the top of FITV and it sucks hard so get something to help ur finger) hole inside the TB, engine should suffer to die, if it doesn’t suffered to death…and the idle still up and down or it stopped surging up and down and stay idles constant while blocking both holes then for sure there is a vacuum leak
( ) Check SIAC for damage, positive for blk/yel, and negative for blu/yel
( ) When covered both FITV and SIAC, car idles still high, there is a vacuum leak
( ) Check IM bolts, spray Starting fluid around, look for leaking symton (im not sure on this)
( ) Check SIAC and FITV connection check for leak down at gasket
( ) Check TPS for voltage with fully close throttle blade, voltage should be 4.8, -,+.6 (
( ) Check MAP for voltage, should be 5v with marginal error of .5 or less, 4.5 is fine
( ) Check IAT for voltage, should be 5v with marginal error of .5 or less, 4.5 is fine
( )
( ) Replace ECU, or if have an extra ECU to test…
( )

Additional Problems Found by me

( ) Transmission oil is low
( ) Wrong gasket, sound stupid but there is a chance on that
( ) PCV cracked
( ) Stock idle screw should be fine as it is, don’t adjust it just bcuz if the idle acts erractically, idle screw should only be adjusted when the idle is higher than normal and only when the idle is constantly stable
( )
( )
( )