Well i have a 1991 crx si and happen to have a 1990 motor..is there anyway they can tell the difference between 90-91 integra motors? besides the mark on the head? i mean i never seen any block stamp with a year on it. both are EXACTLY the same motor?? Also i want to put atleast the stock integra intake tube on because it has a hook up for 2 vaccum lines.. i have an aftermarket intake and yes its carb legal but those 2 vaccum lines dont hook to it so im scared to try with the intake..im gona change oil day ebfore i go and o2 sensor, they told me pretty much when they pop the hood make sure it looks like an integra.. any tips??

 

If your referring to the LS. B18a is the 90-91 and b18b are the later LS models.

 

yup Ls b18a from 90-91...do you think i'll hit problems? Should i get the full stick integra intake system or the crx box with integra tube?

 

BUmp for important info! help me out once i get this legal im going lsvtec HELP

 

Hopefully you will soon be a member of the BAR club.

(I've gotten my B18C 89 Hatchback through the Ref)

I don't think the Referee will have any problem with the fact that the engine is 90, while the car is 91. Think of it as "engine groups" and a B18a could be a 90 or 91. It's the same thing. Unless you have paperwork stating that the engine is a 90, just say that you "believe" that it's a 91 (didn't hear that from me). When I went through the Referee, he didn't ask for any bill-of-sale for the engine (I wish that he had).

Is the header legal for the engine? He will check it!!

Is the manifold legal for the engine? Once again, he will check it!

As for air intake "arm", I used an integra one and for my installation had to seal off the two small air tube connections. You have to keep the larger one that goes to the valve cover. And make sure that the hose is rated for "gas / fuel". If it doesn't have it printed on the hose, you could be bounced out.

Good luck and you will find out that it's not as bad as first thought.

Wes

 

Oh ya, and make sure that the location of the O2 sensor is correct for the engine.

Wes

 

Header..check...IM..check...o2 location...check...bog hose (not sure if fuel rated)..i have everything else...someone told me i have to have the receipt with vin the car the motor came from...dont have and you didnt need that so i shouldnt either!..my only concern is those 2 vaccum lines..should i get a stock crx box and get a stock integra tube so i cam plug those lines in??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRex99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Header..check...IM..check...o2 location...check...bog hose (not sure if fuel rated)..i have everything else...someone told me i have to have the receipt with vin the car the motor came from...dont have and you didnt need that so i shouldnt either!..my only concern is those 2 vaccum lines..should i get a stock crx box and get a stock integra tube so i cam plug those lines in??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't get asked for a bill of sale on my motor (95 B18C1) I would do as Wes suggested and plug up the 2nd smaller liner and use the bigger one for the valve cover. In my case I used the silicone hose that came with my CARB legal Akimoto intake. Good luck !!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by APEX CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would do as Wes suggested and plug up the 2nd smaller liner and use the bigger one for the valve cover.!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok now as far as i know there are 2 vaccum lines that go to the intake that are small and then the big one right?..atleast on the vaccum diagram i thought it showed that..so u guys are saying..go ahead and plug those 2 up and just leave the big one?..also the the top plastic over my cam gears is off should i put it back on? i dont have aftermarkket gears but just to make it look all normal?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRex99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also the the top plastic over my cam gears is off should i put it back on? i dont have aftermarkket gears but just to make it look all normal?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have the timing belt/lower cam gear cover, I would put that back on the motor. If your referee is **** they could automatically fail you or ask you to come back and test with it on.

When I BAR'ed my EH2 with B18C, he mentioned that the cover should be on. When I went to another referee on another occasion, he said that he didn't care.

Take that as you will, but I like to play it safe than be sorry...


Modified by makibaka at 6:57 PM 11/23/2004

 

let us know what happend

 

Yea i know exactly what your saying...all depends on who you get so yea im putting that on. Idle kinda whacks out but thats my O2 and i bought that just now. goes sometimes at 500 then sometimes at 750. I got a code tho from the ecu a few times from O2 just never chaged it!.

well i just plugged off those 2 lines and im going to use my after market intake its carb legal anyway with sticker. plstic piece is going on...im going to run some 91 when i go there and make sure its nice and warmed up. Even if it doesnt pass(and they dont notice its a 90 motor in a 91 car) then they will tell me what i need to fix and i'll go buy it. Also now did they check your ecu's? mine says 90 on that..if you guys can give me a quick list of what they check that'd be great..

 

I would hook up those two hoses for the intake, most ref's I ran into look at that. pretty much you have to hook up everything like a 90-91 teg.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRex99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if you guys can give me a quick list of what they check that'd be great..</TD></TR></TABLE>

When I BAR'ed my EH in May, they checked for the following:

-ECU stamp/code is correct for motor (i.e. P30 = USDM 1994-95 Del sol, P75 = 1995 B18B, etc.)
-correct timing (mine was off by 1 degree and I was asked to come back and retest with the timing corrected)
-fuel cap pressure (they took my gas cap and screwed it into a machine to test it)
-wiring is all sheathed, taped, and fastened properly (i.e. no loose exposed wires)
-engine block stamp to determine type of motor
-bill of sale for the motor stating the VIN of the car it came from (my ref didn't ask for it, but some others have reported that their ref did)
-document from your local Honda/Acura dealer stating that the ECU you have in your car is the correct one for the motor you swaped in (the ref didn't ask for this one either, but others said their ref asked for it)
-no CELs during the test or stored in the ECU (I cleared my ECU in a nearby parking lot just before driving into the station)
-correctly installed smog equipment equivalent to the smog requirements of the year of the motor you swapped in
-functioning SRS (this probably won't apply to you since ED/EF chassis didn't have airbags, but I was told to come back once I fixed my SRS light which was on - I miswired my GSR cluster )
-a polite and humble attitude (not necessary; but if you're a dick to the ref, he will be a dick to you... )

Other than passing the tailpipe sniffer, that's all I did to pass.

Good luck

EDIT: if you don't already have one, a Helms/Honda factory shop manual for your motor would be an excellent resource to see what smog equipment and vacuum lines will have to be hooked up...

 

**** if they are going to look at my ecu stamp code its going to say 1990 not 91! will that have an effect? i mean i can say oh i had to get a 90 ecu cause my 91 was fried..i mean its the same ecu, but still i know they can be ****..

im not sure what to think...people say i dont need those 2 vaccum lines if i have a carb legal intake then people say might as well get a stock one so i can hook them up for the safe side. Well im thinking i might want to do this. BUT should i get a crx OE intake BOX and just use the integra intake tube? or will the teg intake box bolt in? Or do you think they would say something because id have the crx intake box? hey and you said you failed the first time because of timing, did you have to pay again the second time?

 

tRex99;

Try to keep it cool and don't get too stressed! I wouldn't worry about the fact that the ECU is for a 90, and I'm not really sure if it really has a date or not. It would have the "type" on the label and it would be the same for 90 or 91.

As for the air box; I used the stock civic air filter box and an Integra "air arm". I had to cut the large diameter tube that comes off of the top of the filter box so that the integra air arm would fit.

It's my recommendation (and you can take it for what it's worth) that you are best to remove any aftermarket "air arm" or filter.

Wes

 

...ok i am going to go ahead with the stock air box...now is the air box the same for crx and civic hatch? its easier to get a hatch from the junk yard. also my ecu does say 1990 in a blue ink stamp..if they arent suppse to say it then **** i'll scub that **** off! but i think its suppose to be there and they might be looking for it so i'll leave it..anyway thanks anymore tips would be great..

 

As long as the ECU says PR4 u should be fine, regardless of year stamp. I would slap on an original integra air arm (which has the 2 vacuum nipples) along with a civic/crx air box (i believe they are identical). ALL vac lines should be hooked up correctly according to a underhood sticker on a 90-91 teggy, nothing should be plugged. Good luck.

 

Well i just picked up a PM5 air box and i decided to get the air adapter that goes above the radiator otherwise there ould just be an open hol at the bottom of the box and i wouldnt want them to complain.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRex99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i decided to get the air adapter that goes above the radiator otherwise there ould just be an open hol at the bottom of the box and i wouldnt want them to complain.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont think they're gonna trip about that, just as long as u got the OEM air box.

 

Yea i dont think that parts going to work anyway because i cant bolt it to the radiator like a hatch. i have the Y tube that comes off the box that should be fine...should i go buy a battery hold down? Like a rubber holder? i have the bolts already so might as well..

 

refs are dum their are no rules. you can take your car in obd0 pr3 or zc if you pass sniffer you can get a sticker lol.

couple of years ago I went to the ref to smog my car they said I need a P28 ecu to smog as a b16a3. I told them your data is incorrect they was like NO. Then I got pissed at them he called the Manager/boss of the ALL Local stations. Then next he came I told him you people are dumass don't know wtf you guys doing. Next day he called appolizied for being incorrect he gave me free retest I never went back to ref. They also told me to put a hydro tranny the other dum *** ref named SINGH. When I took it another station he said your tranny looks I was like wtf is wrong with my tranny.

Maybe I might go back when I try to ref the K series.
I just think this ref is the most bullshit I ever heard lol this just crack me up..

 

sorry i was short on the phone earlier i was with my girlfriend,
well basically as someone else said the motor is in a group 90-91 obd-0 and 92-93 is obd-1 it has to be either 90-91, your engine bay must look exactly like a 90-91 integra(words straight from BAR to me) meaning you must run 90-91 integra intake airbox with 90-91 integra intake tube along with the vacume lines going to that tube and the check valve that is on one of the vacume lines going to the tube. this means that you have to relocate your battery the way i did was trick, i will post pics for everyone hopefully tomarrow, if i can steal my sister camera. make sure your radiator cap is in working order, your gas cap is in working order your timing is to stock(talked to a guy i know who pre-tests cars for smogg and he suggested 15 degree advance actually passes easier but that is hear-say) you must have your dual-dashpot solonoids wired 2 black cylinder things one the firwall the crx coes stock with 1 (which you did from what you told me) you must have a pr-4 obd-0 ecu with the correct transmission type. you must have obviously no check engine light. carb legal headers for that year motor or stock exhuast manifold. recomended to have a new catylitic converter for that year integra, or one with a carb exempt number. make sure your dash vin number matches your body vin number, make sure that you have no air/fuel ratio gauges or afc/vafc type devices in or near the car they dont like those, and will send you home for that. the price to ref if you dont know already i was told was $50 you get 2 shots. From what i was told from a local shop is that you typically fail 1st time because it tends to shy people away and not make your life easy. just fix whatever they say to fix, be patient and polite they should pass you the 2nd time. im pretty sure i covered most and then some. Feel free to stop by or call if you have any questions. ive been in and out of almost every shop around here and my car is ready i just need to make the appointment.
-jason

p.s.- i forgot to mention that not only do you have to relocate the battery to fit the integra intake but you have to trim down the tube that comes out of the air box so that the tube fits to the correct length to the air box(cut box not tube!!) i am currently runing a trimmed down crx airbox with integra tube and it looks very much stock and you dont need to relocate the battery with that setup. but to be on the safe side i relocated anyways and am going for integra airbox


Modified by 1.888 at 1:08 AM 11/25/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bossman032 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">refs are dum their are no rules. you can take your car in obd0 pr3 or zc if you pass sniffer you can get a sticker lol.

couple of years ago I went to the ref to smog my car they said I need a P28 ecu to smog as a b16a3. I told them your data is incorrect they was like NO. Then I got pissed at them he called the Manager/boss of the ALL Local stations. Then next he came I told him you people are dumass don't know wtf you guys doing. Next day he called appolizied for being incorrect he gave me free retest I never went back to ref. They also told me to put a hydro tranny the other dum *** ref named SINGH. When I took it another station he said your tranny looks I was like wtf is wrong with my tranny.

Maybe I might go back when I try to ref the K series.
I just think this ref is the most bullshit I ever heard lol this just crack me up..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Reffs are lame and stupid, but they are the reffs and they determine whether or not your car gets on the road legally or not at all, havent you learned you dont fight the system directly it is far to big for that, you must destroy from with-in.

 

Sweet i think i have everything done!..im just going to clean it all up make it look perfect. It looks pretty damn nice right now but i like perfect! The ref i got off of northgate since im in sac county is only 30 bucks then 8 for a certificate and a free retest.

last time a cop pulled me over he asked what mods i had i said intake and exhuast but everything was legal her checked it(cept he didnt know i had an ls ) So next time im going to be like **** YEA! i got an lsvtec under that bitch intake exhaust, ctr int, itr exhaust this ************ moves! but its all legal(with this big smile as i point to the bar sticker, he wont know the difference to lsvtec, ls, gsr, licking my nuts) be nice to be safe.