Project CRX 1 year in the making..........56k maybe??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rostr02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">really clean all you need now is some coilovers</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks low enough to me..
Car looks clean
..but get some better pics
Looks low enough to me..
Car looks clean
..but get some better pics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFHondaRue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually on Thursday, a set of eibach sportlines and KYB AGX 4 way adjustable struts are going on all 4 corners.
Other things that can't be seen are......
-Rear disc brake conversion
-Bigger front brakes
-Polyurethane suspension bushings
-Skunk2 Front and rear strut tower bars and rear lower tie bar
-Car is wired up for v-tec, power windows, and fog lights (plan on getting more jdm stuff)
-Car wiring is changed from 88-89 to 90-91</TD></TR></TABLE>
I want to add some ideas for ya since I've "been there, done that".
1: on the rear discs, make sure you have the correct prop valve.
2: With the Polyurethane bushings, MAKE SURE TO USE ZERKS. Make sure to use grease fittings on the front LCA's and the rear trailing arm (if you use it). Instructions on installing the zerk fittings into the trailing arm and LCA's is HERE: http://overboost.com/story.asp?id=426 Without these your bushings will start squeaking in a year and/or dissintigrate (sp?)not too long after that.
4: For the front and rear strut tower bar I would say NO for 2 reasons. A: the rear body of this car is very stiff and strut bars do nothing more than take up space and look pretty. You would be better off getting something like a 4 point roll bar that you could connect belts to. The only reason I have a rear strut bar is because I attatch my subwoofer box to it to keep it from sliding around!
5: I see that you have the Hasport Billet mounts. I do as well and when I had a strut bar in the front it allowed enough vibration to be transfered that the engine would cause my CD player to skip much more often. AFter I removed the bar (and noticed no difference in handling) the CD player "skippage" was reduced by 50%. If you are having problems with vibration and your CD player then give that a shot.
Other things that can't be seen are......
-Rear disc brake conversion
-Bigger front brakes
-Polyurethane suspension bushings
-Skunk2 Front and rear strut tower bars and rear lower tie bar
-Car is wired up for v-tec, power windows, and fog lights (plan on getting more jdm stuff)
-Car wiring is changed from 88-89 to 90-91</TD></TR></TABLE>
I want to add some ideas for ya since I've "been there, done that".
1: on the rear discs, make sure you have the correct prop valve.
2: With the Polyurethane bushings, MAKE SURE TO USE ZERKS. Make sure to use grease fittings on the front LCA's and the rear trailing arm (if you use it). Instructions on installing the zerk fittings into the trailing arm and LCA's is HERE: http://overboost.com/story.asp?id=426 Without these your bushings will start squeaking in a year and/or dissintigrate (sp?)not too long after that.
4: For the front and rear strut tower bar I would say NO for 2 reasons. A: the rear body of this car is very stiff and strut bars do nothing more than take up space and look pretty. You would be better off getting something like a 4 point roll bar that you could connect belts to. The only reason I have a rear strut bar is because I attatch my subwoofer box to it to keep it from sliding around!
5: I see that you have the Hasport Billet mounts. I do as well and when I had a strut bar in the front it allowed enough vibration to be transfered that the engine would cause my CD player to skip much more often. AFter I removed the bar (and noticed no difference in handling) the CD player "skippage" was reduced by 50%. If you are having problems with vibration and your CD player then give that a shot.
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gota love that white....dude that's one fine machine you got there...and i know you'll take care of it ....one year!? You got more patience then i do....and a bigger bank account....
Looks real good with the JDM Steering Wheel and Guage Cluster...
How much rewiring and custom fabbing did you have to do to make it all work correctly?
How much rewiring and custom fabbing did you have to do to make it all work correctly?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFHondaRue »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What model crx did or do you have because when i added the rear strut tower bar i noticed a huge difference. Also with the front strut tower bar i haven't noticed any difference in vibration from when i didn't have it on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am comparing my ebay bars to your skunk2 bars so that might be the problem.
As for the rear adding a HUGE difference I would be curious as to how HUGE it is. But then again my street car has a rollbar and my race car has/had a cage.
If you want pics on how I attatched my sub to the rear bar just let me know.
I am comparing my ebay bars to your skunk2 bars so that might be the problem.
As for the rear adding a HUGE difference I would be curious as to how HUGE it is. But then again my street car has a rollbar and my race car has/had a cage.
If you want pics on how I attatched my sub to the rear bar just let me know.
your little brother's crx is coming along beautifully. i wish i had the time, patience, and money to do what you and your brother have done. keep up the good work and engine that car to it's fullest.
-Erik <---- impressed
-Erik <---- impressed
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