Im trying to hook up the oil feed line for my turbo on my gsr and when i was under the car i didnt see the oem sending unit. I have a picture of it from this thread
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=635014
it doesnt look the same as it does on my car. any help please

 

the image in that thread,



is a pic of it already with the double adapter on.

you shoudl see just the "needle" of the pressure sendor sticking out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pissedoffsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you shoudl see just the "needle" of the pressure sendor sticking out</TD></TR></TABLE>

yupp

 

There's also a black boot thingy over the sensor... you just pull it off to get to the sensor.

It should be easy to find... I dunno what else to tell ya

 

you also should not tee directly off the block. The vibrations will cause the fitting to break off in the block. It is best to run a short braided line from the block to your tee. Especially if you have an added oil pressure sender for an electronic pressure gauge.

 

Dont listen to them, i had a lot of trouble with this.


Go to all parts or soemthing and buy a 24m deep socket.

see that black thing just to the left of the tee and needley thing, you have one of those. It covers the needley thing, it is difficult to take off. It clips on to the needley green thing. YOu have to get that off, and you will see the oil pressure sending unit. Use the 24mm socket to take off the stock unit, then attach the stock unit to the T, and attach the T to the block. Then attach the feed line.

This was a lot harder for me than everyone said, because i've never seen thius stuff before.

hope that helps

 

Like was said before, I wouldn't T directly off your block like in the above picture...

The vibrations and weight can cause the T to break off of your block... then you have a larger mess to deal with.

Just mount a T on your firewall, it's not that hard to do and it's much more safe...

Here's a picture of how I did mine...



Oh, and you don't have to buy a huge socket to get the sensor off, just use a wrench instead, if you have one that is.

 

The oil pressure sender requires a ground? I thought it grounded itself out.

 

So yall are saying this way is bad?

 

yes, because honda motors vibrate so much at high RPMs the blocks have been known to crack because of the extra weight added to the thin walled hole

 

what is the easiest way to fix this problem other that ej1 wilcox approach? ej1 wilcox approach seems to be very costly

 

IT LOOK'S GOOD TO ME BUT I WOULD'NT WORRY ABOUT THE FITTING BREAKING OFF UNLESS YOU MADE YOUR OWN BRASS FITTING.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ti3d in &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The oil pressure sender requires a ground? I thought it grounded itself out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah so did I...anyone else have any comments about this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onePOINTsix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, because honda motors vibrate so much at high RPMs the blocks have been known to crack because of the extra weight added to the thin walled hole</TD></TR></TABLE>

This method for the turbo feed has been used and debated many and many of times. Im running the same setup on my car now and have no problems. I heard that the problem with the setup is that people use the wrong thread type on the feed adapter! BTW if it did break it wouldnt crack the block it would just break the "T" off. Then when that happens you pretty much screwed unless you can easy-out it or something

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oxSLEEPERxo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So yall are saying this way is bad?


</TD></TR></TABLE>

all of my friend run it just like that, but they are all street cars, hummm
been going strong just over 1 year now like that for me

 

from i pic i showed yall, i think that way is better than the brass fitting above, don't yall think? the silver fitting is way stronger than the brass fitting.

 

Ej wilcox what is the fitting size and line coming off the block to the tee?...and the size of your tee? -4an?

oxSLEEPERox- what tee do you have coming out of the block, and what -an size is coming out of that?

I'll be starting this soon hopefully, and help would be appreciated.

 

not sure, go to http://www.tunertoys.com/ they are the ones that sells them oil lines, they makes some good quality oil lines

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96BLkGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ej wilcox what is the fitting size and line coming off the block to the tee?...and the size of your tee? -4an?.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't remember the size of the fittings... I know the line is -3AN but I don't remember the rest

I got all my fittings from Stan at Fast-turbo.com, he was very helpful and answered all my questions!

I know it's more expensive to build a T on the firewall but I'm willing to dish out the few extra bucks to ensure that my expensive turbo has an efficient oil supply and such...

I don't think running a T off your block is for sure a bad thing to do... but I have read enough articles and heard enough stories to convince me otherwise.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ti3d in &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The oil pressure sender requires a ground? I thought it grounded itself out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've heard that you need to ground the sensor if it is not directly connected to the block because the sensor only has one wire... or something like that. I don't remember the exact reason...

I have just heard that the sensor doesn't work in the location where I have it if it doesn't have it's own ground... so I figured I'd put one on there... it wasn't hard to do so I figured I might as well...

 

This is my oil line kit that I have sold for years. There are hundreds of these fittings on turbo honda's from here to Australia. I've never heard of one of them braking. This "every T breaks off the block" rumor in the honda community is getting old. I'm sure there are people that use a 1/8npt fitting (wrong size) or 100 brass fittings to create a T that HAVE broken them, but this doesn't mean that all T's break. lol
At the very most I would run two lines off of this fitting (turbo, vtec, ect) but no, I wouldn't hang an autometer pressure sender off of it. It's just common sense.
And for those that just insist on believing the rumor passers, we make a firewall kit too. Happy Boosting -Steve

 

stealthmode and tunertoys oil lines These are some good quality stuff that they sell

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oxSLEEPERxo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stealthmode and tunertoys oil lines These are some good quality stuff that they sell</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks brotha'

 

4 car with Stealthmodeperformance oil lines no problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onePOINTsix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, because honda motors vibrate so much at high RPMs the blocks have been known to crack because of the extra weight added to the thin walled hole</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've never heard of that one before. I don't quite believe it too much either. Do you have any links to threads about this story or proof that it has actually happened?

 

EXACTLY how mine is setup - and would recommend others to do as well. I too have never heard of someone breaking theirs, but I've seen engines with broken motor mounts flex almost 12 inches front to rear. To each their own.