Well...
i have posted my setup on the H-T forums before... but its now almost complete
its a VW, not a honda... but im here for some basic opinions on the setup...
i dont feel that the intercooler plumbing will effect flow to much... but some on the VW forums disagree...
soooooo... with that said, alot of the VW kids just throw opinions around with 0 explaination or any other justification to support that particular opinion....
so anyways here are some pictures...
this is the first time anything like this has been done with a vw 1.8t so i know its not the best looking.








also on the following pictures... the rusty nasty mounts that were used will be cleaned up and painted black as well...









so suggestions comments welcome...
the good the bad and the ugly.

the main concern some had was the "hump" in the plumbing...
there is no other way to fab up the plumbing, so thats the way it has to go... unless i cut the compressor outlet off and weld on a tight 90.
but i dont have the ability to weld aluminum.
most of the VW guys think that the pipe coming from the compressor is going to be restrictive.

 

Your piping looks good to me it seems to be pritty smooth from what I can see in the pictures. I would like to see a picture of the pipe that clamps to the compressor housing and what that bend looks like.. But if you have a smooth 90deg there as well than your fine...


I'm not nocking your setup of anything but what i would have done is:
I would have clocked the compressor housing so the outlet is just above the valve cover than sence you can't weld aluminum I would have bought one of those 90deg sil couplings and put that on the outlet.
Than I would have ran a 90 deg peace of pipe and welded it right there to where yours goes into that big hump in the middle of the engine.
I beleive that this would make the piping shorter and a little smoother.

Again your piping looks great unless you cheated the bend right there at the turbo outlet.

Looks nice

 

Steve are you on every god damn board???

 

looks good to me

 

you need slicks before you need more power. The ET is complete garbage for the MPH. I don't see the point of a little more HP when you can't put half of it to the ground??? You got 440 fwhp right now and putting like 250-300 down with 12.5's.

Setup looks good though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your piping looks good to me it seems to be pritty smooth from what I can see in the pictures. I would like to see a picture of the pipe that clamps to the compressor housing and what that bend looks like.. But if you have a smooth 90deg there as well than your fine...


I'm not nocking your setup of anything but what i would have done is:
I would have clocked the compressor housing so the outlet is just above the valve cover than sence you can't weld aluminum I would have bought one of those 90deg sil couplings and put that on the outlet.
Than I would have ran a 90 deg peace of pipe and welded it right there to where yours goes into that big hump in the middle of the engine.
I beleive that this would make the piping shorter and a little smoother.

Again your piping looks great unless you cheated the bend right there at the turbo outlet.

Looks nice </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats the thing...
it wont work that way... it hits the valve cover onece you start clocking it.... it only gets as far as to point the outlet at the fire wall...
this was clearly the only way to clock it...
geoff said it would have been best to weld that alum. 90 on the housing but eh...
it would have made the pipes look alittle cleaner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92BlackSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need slicks before you need more power. The ET is complete garbage for the MPH. I don't see the point of a little more HP when you can't put half of it to the ground??? You got 440 fwhp right now and putting like 250-300 down with 12.5's.

Setup looks good though</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol i know this man...
ive got a set of 24.5 m&h's now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GT61 this 1.8t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats the thing...
it wont work that way... it hits the valve cover onece you start clocking it.... it only gets as far as to point the outlet at the fire wall...
this was clearly the only way to clock it...
geoff said it would have been best to weld that alum. 90 on the housing but eh...
it would have made the pipes look alittle cleaner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well from the pictures it looks to me like you could just take the turbo off clock it to the position I'm talking about and than put it back on... or are the pictures deceiving me??

 

as far as i can tell, that would put the turbo pointing against the engine.

Its hard to see, but as long as its a smooth bend, i wouldnt worry about it too much.

 

baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaa.......SSSSSSSSHHHHH &lt;shift&gt;

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well from the pictures it looks to me like you could just take the turbo off clock it to the position I'm talking about and than put it back on... or are the pictures deceiving me??</TD></TR></TABLE>
im going to have to say the image is deceiving...
because if you loosen the compressor cover up, clock it then try to put the turbo back in place the bolt holes wont line up because the "fat" end of the compressor housing will butt up against the vavle cover...
we even discussed notching the valve cover... so we took a spare and mocked that up...
no worky

see the compressor housing has alittle more material on the outlet side... as you can see it barely clears now...
here is another picture..


trust me, if i could have ran it another way i would have.
the flange places to turbo real tight to the head.
se that? how the compressor housing gets alittle larger towards the outlet?
you can get the outlet to point at the firewall... thats as far as it will go until its digging into the valve cover...
see what im saying now?

 

The IC to TB pipe looks pretty mint.

If that is a smooth bend coming out of the compressor cover then I think the setup you have would add less turbulance than a 90 welded on, even if you could fit it.

What diameter is the hot pipe? if that is an E cover than I think the ID of the outlet is about 1 7/8". Assuming the intercooler inlet is 2.5" I would make a pipe that is 2" to the front of the hump, 2.25" to under the battery then the last foot or so 2.5". This design would introduce the least ammount of turbulance which should help offset the 400+ degrees of bends you have on the hot pipe. less bends and smooth diameter changes = good charge pipes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The IC to TB pipe looks pretty mint.

If that is a smooth bend coming out of the compressor cover then I think the setup you have would add less turbulance than a 90 welded on, even if you could fit it.

What diameter is the hot pipe? if that is an E cover than I think the ID of the outlet is about 1 7/8". Assuming the intercooler inlet is 2.5" I would make a pipe that is 2" to the front of the hump, 2.25" to under the battery then the last foot or so 2.5". This design would introduce the least ammount of turbulance which should help offset the 400+ degrees of bends you have on the hot pipe. less bends and smooth diameter changes = good charge pipes. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok its a t61 compressor, so the t04e compressor cover isnt going to work at all...
sooo that means its a t04s .70a/r cover...
now, with that addressed... the outlet is 2.5"
and the plumbing from the turbo to the core is 2.5" also...
and its 2.5" from the core to the TB....
all 2.5"
as for the bend coming off the compressor outlet...
its not kinked at all, just a 45 silicon off the outlet to a 45 hard pipe, to another 45 hard pipe...
everything is smooth flowing.

and everything is 2.5"
if it were an E cover it would more than likely fit.

 

well, looks like you got it all set then. You can't get any better than ID matched outlet&gt;pipe&gt;IC. good job

 

what kind of IC?

 

the precision 750 core.

 

i share a garage w/ vw guys called DCI...so i got mad respect for vw's. your car looks sweet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GT61 this 1.8t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im going to have to say the image is deceiving...
because if you loosen the compressor cover up, clock it then try to put the turbo back in place the bolt holes wont line up because the "fat" end of the compressor housing will butt up against the vavle cover...
we even discussed notching the valve cover... so we took a spare and mocked that up...
no worky

see the compressor housing has alittle more material on the outlet side... as you can see it barely clears now...
here is another picture..


trust me, if i could have ran it another way i would have.
the flange places to turbo real tight to the head.
se that? how the compressor housing gets alittle larger towards the outlet?
you can get the outlet to point at the firewall... thats as far as it will go until its digging into the valve cover...
see what im saying now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The first pictures are definitely deceiving, I just looked at the new images and everything that you said and there is definitely no way to point the oulet up, so yeah you pritty much did the best you could right there and if you alredy have a 45deg sil coupling there and the pipes are smooth your good to go!!

Good luck with the project, everything looks great!! Looks like your gona have a monster on your hands!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The first pictures are definitely deceiving, I just looked at the new images and everything that you said and there is definitely no way to point the oulet up, so yeah you pritty much did the best you could right there and if you alredy have a 45deg sil coupling there and the pipes are smooth your good to go!!

Good luck with the project, everything looks great!! Looks like your gona have a monster on your hands!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks man... i sure hope so...
i mean the goal is conservative(500wheel)
considering i have the proper equipment to throw down close to 600wheel... but we will see...
i dont have the luxury you guys have of rving to 9k...
i have a 7800rpm rev limit, but with a new head with solid lifters and some other gear (springs, valves, cams) ill rev out to about 8600-9k...
but its going to be a bitch adjusting the lash on this thing.