Well im doing an lsvtec and im tired of shitty prices so im just going to buy a whole damn B16 swap for cheaper then buying parts seperate. Now i can get either a Xsi 92-93($1600) or an obd0 B16 sir1($1100-1300)..OR if i can find a sir or VT front clip thatd be great... i mean doesnt sound too bad i dont know tho i would do 200 shipped and definatly buy it off you if i just plugged it all up..


Modified by tRex99 at 8:43 PM 11/21/2004

 

What do you mean by, "responsive to parts"? Like which ECU/motor will accept parts more readily? In which case there wouldn't be much difference if you're dealing with the motor, OBDI would be my choice on the ECU however. From an ease standpoint you'd be better of sticking with the SiR motor due to the fact that you should be getting a nonOBD ECU (PR3 or PW0) which will plug directly into your interior harness (assuming you have a Rex). I personally would go with the OBDI XSi motor as you'll have a newer distributor high impedance injectors without a resistor box (if you're still running stock ones on your new motor), and a better ECU to work with (assuming you'd be running Hondata or something). This will require you to make/buy a nonOBD-OBDI jumper and rewire your factory engine harness (which you'd have to do anyway unless you already have a DOHC VTEC motor in your car). Just about every Rex swap we do gets converted to OBDI but most also have built motors, etc. where you need to run an OBDI ECU at the least. Just my $0.02 tho

 

I agree. For sheer convenience of readily available parts, OBD-I gets the nod.

 

Yea i think im going to go with obd1 because we have obd1 in the states here to so its alot easier to find parts when i need them...and na i just have an ls now so i'll buy the conversion harness for like 100 bucks and then get my wire harness re wired..how much does that usually run to have it converted?? just a base idea...

 

It really depends, if I'm just making the jumper/engine harness on the side for someone I normally charge $250 for both pieces. I don't really think that's too bad of a deal for 8 hours of work but then again I guess prices could vary. I'm just extremely miticulous about wiring, etc. Here's a jumper/harness that I made for my friend Will's (WillieWillieFast) Rex.

Rex harness torn apart with a few new extra connectors and VTEC stuff...

Completed nonOBD-OBDI jumper

All Done

 

So that harness you made would keep me from having to go to the shop and have them wire crap up to make my car obd1? i mean yea i buy the jumper harness for the ecu but ur plug in deal...if i bought the jumper for the ecu and this harness would i be plug and play and done?

 

you would still need the obd1 dizzy

 

Even with my harness you'd still have to add in wires for VTEC, VTM, KS (if applicable), etc. into your interior wiring harness so it really isn't plug and play. All the aftermarket nonOBD-OBD jumpers that I have seen have their VTEC, VTM, KS, oxygen sensor signal/heater, power and ground (you really don't need to hook up these last two) wires tracing off the actual OBD pigtail side. This makes wiring your interior harness quicker but not necessarily better. I on the other hand run all my leads directly from the OBDI side to the nonOBD. This in turn makes you have to add in nonOBD pins into your interior pigtails and run lines out. It's cleaner but again a little more work. As mmuller said you will need an OBDI/OBDII dizzy. Out of all of these conversions that I've ever done I have never once wired the harness to accept an OBDI dizzy, it's just a personal preference (and makes no difference what so ever) but I like the cleaner look of the single connector.