Are these Darton Replacement sleeves?
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finally got around to pulling the head off today and taking a few pictures. the copper thing in the middle looks like a o-ring or something and the copper color on the top of the sleeves started to rub off once i started cleaning it with carb cleaner. still, i'd still like to know if these are just replacement sleeves. sorry for the NOOB question.


did you buy the motor already assembled?
yes- that is a copper o -ring.
dont look like dartons to me, possible that they have an open and a close deck version of their sleeves.
yes- that is a copper o -ring.
dont look like dartons to me, possible that they have an open and a close deck version of their sleeves.
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yes, the motor was already assembled when i bought the car from E_Swift on here. on the receipt he gave me, it says darton full ductile iron sleeves. so i don't know if these are open deck sleeves or just the replacement sleeves from darton, or if they're even darton sleeves.
as for the copper o-ring, would it be wise to remove it since i'm putting on a new headgasket? or should i just leave it on? i can't clean the outer part of the o-ringed area with just a rag and carb cleaner alone and i don't want to scratch any part of the deck.
as for the copper o-ring, would it be wise to remove it since i'm putting on a new headgasket? or should i just leave it on? i can't clean the outer part of the o-ringed area with just a rag and carb cleaner alone and i don't want to scratch any part of the deck.
Not sure if they are Dartons, but they are definitely not stock sleeves. You can see in the last pic that the sleeves are individual pieces. The stock setup is one giant aluminum "blanket" around the sleeves.
Sonny
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thanks for the replies guys. i'm gonna guess that they're not stock replacement sleeves. but about the o-ring, should i just leave that in or should i remove it?
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damn this sucks...i'm gonna be without a car for awhile then!! do i have to replace them or can i just run without them? just wondering. and where can i get the copper wires to make my own replacements?
oh and thank you for replying guys. o-ringing is new to me so please bear with me. i'm doing a massive search about it right now in my cold garage. wireless internet kicks ***.
oh and thank you for replying guys. o-ringing is new to me so please bear with me. i'm doing a massive search about it right now in my cold garage. wireless internet kicks ***.
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you can get replacment wire from goldeneagle , and no you cant run with out them , i guess you could leave it in but you will risk a leak, but look at it this way the best things for goog h/g seal is a steped deck or o-rings , so you have a good bottom end , just call G/E and get the replacment o-ring wire,
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damn, i really wish i would of known about this sooner so i could order them
i need my car for work monday. man i'm gonna cry!! damn...oh well, guess i'll have to borrow a car from someone. thank you very much B18C1CYA.
i need my car for work monday. man i'm gonna cry!! damn...oh well, guess i'll have to borrow a car from someone. thank you very much B18C1CYA.
yes, definately replace the copper o-ring wire, that is what helps seal your combustion chaimber. GE sells the roll of wire for like 15 bucks or so. I just replaced mine. You will need some small picks to get the wire out and some patients, so take your time... getting the wire out can be a pain sometimes. good luck
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yeah...i already picked one out by accident so i guess it's not too bad. man...i'm gonna have to make the o-ring too....that's gonna be hard trying to bend the wire to a perfect circular shape.
no it's actually not that hard, the wire will form into place as you gently tap the wire into the o-ring groove with a small mallet. Cutting the wire to mate a perfect fit may take a few clippings. Hands on and trial and error, you will learn.
or you can give Lightning Motorsports a call and get them from them. The are a GE distributor and have the o-rings in stock.
They have the number on there site http://www.lightningmotorsports.com
They have the number on there site http://www.lightningmotorsports.com
try not to flatten the wire when putting it in the grove. i use a plastic hammer or a rubber mallet to install my o rings. and get the end gap tight.
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okay guys...it's 12:41 in the afternoon and i'm heading out to my local radioshack. i'll take more pictures and post them later on.
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okay so i was only able to find a pack of assorted Enamel-Coated Magnet Wire pack which had solid core copper wires. the pack came with a 22 gauge, 26 gauge, and 30 gauge roll of copper. i don't know how soft these copper wires are but i hope they work. oh and what guage would be equivalent to .041"?? i don't have any tools at home to measure at all until i get to work...but i can't get to work without my car so i'm in a lose lose situation.


http://www.calfinewire.com/wirech.htm
Sherman: You gotta get another car, man! I've been in your situation and I know that it sucks. Nothing will make you hate your car faster than being under the gun to fix it so that you can go to work. Might be time to pony up $500 for a beater backup car.
Sherman: You gotta get another car, man! I've been in your situation and I know that it sucks. Nothing will make you hate your car faster than being under the gun to fix it so that you can go to work. Might be time to pony up $500 for a beater backup car.
whats up sherman????? looks like you need to take the plug outta your block and drain your waterjacket. get some antifreeze in there. its getting cold out
We use the same O ring set up in our car . You need to go to a arts and craft store and find 8 GUAGE DEAD SOFT COPPER BARE WIRE. They have that stuff there for making braclets and stuff it only cost $3. Other than that order it from GE.


