V-Bands as Exhaust Clamps
I'm going to be putting a custom 3" exhaust on my car soon as well as a 3" downpipe. I'll be running a V-band clamp off the exhaust housing of my turbo, but I was wondering if anyone has used V-bands other places in their exhausts. I plan on putting one at the bottom of the downpipe and probably another somewhere back near the axle. Anybody have any experience with this/any suggestions?
They seal great, are easy to remove (i.e. open downpipe) and the weight is negligable. No gasket to blow out either. Slip fits nice as well, but not as easily detachable as a V-band. I don't know what V-bands others have, but the ones I use weigh in at just under 0.8 lbs, that's with both 3" flanges included in the band with locking nut. A piece of expanded 3" stainless with a length of 3" (an approximation of a slip joint) weighed in at 0.45 lbs. Then weigh the portion of exhaust that slips inside the expanded piece and you probably have the same weight as the original V band set up.
Somewhat related, where do you guys get your v-bands? I'm looking for the cheapest source, online prices vary widely and seem to be outrageous.
Sam
Sam
I just found a good place for V-bands and stainless bends ... I'm just starting an exhaust on a Jetta today. Check the sick prices on hivolume ...
http://www.hivolume.com -> look for the "stainless bends" link in the second menu.
http://www.hivolume.com -> look for the "stainless bends" link in the second menu.
ATP turbo sells stainless V-band clamps and flanges as well. They come up to $50 as well for two flange ends and the clamp (3.00")
But what I noticed is that ATP's do not require a Teflon seal... Their flanges are tapered so they create a leak-proof seal by just tightening it. They are basically good up to 1000+ deg or whatever temperature their SS is good up to.
The ones on hivolume requires a Teflon seal and is only good up to 450 deg F. That's too low for the exhaust anywhere close to the turbo/cat...
I would suggest ATP's V-band clamps
But what I noticed is that ATP's do not require a Teflon seal... Their flanges are tapered so they create a leak-proof seal by just tightening it. They are basically good up to 1000+ deg or whatever temperature their SS is good up to.
The ones on hivolume requires a Teflon seal and is only good up to 450 deg F. That's too low for the exhaust anywhere close to the turbo/cat...
I would suggest ATP's V-band clamps
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v-bands are the way to go. i recently redid a s14 exhaust and converted from 3.0 in 2 bolt flanges to 3.0 in v-bands at every connection. they work great. you can get the flanges and clamps anywhere from 1.5 to 4.0 in dia. the clamps are almost always stainless and flanges can be either mild or ss.
v-bands also make for easy installation in tight spots
v-bands also make for easy installation in tight spots
try checking out the stuff that http://www.vibrantperformance.com has they always have in stock as they produce the stuff and price point is awesome. The new 2005 catelog isn't up yet, but should be soon with much more products. They have v-bands, flanges, flex joints upto 5", race mufflers, intercooler cores, silicone connectors is different sizes and shapes IN STOCK!!
Cody (tinket219) sells the option to use v-bands on any header that he sells....along with flexpipes upon request....very very good idea if you ask me
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tony the Tiger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would suggest ATP's V-band clamps
</TD></TR></TABLE>
same here, http://www.atpturbo.com
i use them on all my exhaust connections, makes removing the downpipe sooooooooooooooooooooooooo much easier.
I would suggest ATP's V-band clamps
</TD></TR></TABLE>same here, http://www.atpturbo.com
i use them on all my exhaust connections, makes removing the downpipe sooooooooooooooooooooooooo much easier.
hey... on ATP's site... does this 2.5" v band come with the flanges?
http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=CLA
http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=CLA
I'm new to this exhaust making game, just wondering why these are not just as good ?
Band Clamps

Collar clamps

T- Bolt style

The original U clamps, besides crimping what else is bad ?

So whats so bad about all of these ?
Band Clamps

Collar clamps

T- Bolt style

The original U clamps, besides crimping what else is bad ?

So whats so bad about all of these ?
vbands for cheap at summit..i dont know how well they work though..
http://store.summitracing.com/...9&y=6
http://store.summitracing.com/...9&y=6
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DefiantGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vbands for cheap at summit..i dont know how well they work though..
http://store.summitracing.com/...9&y=6</TD></TR></TABLE>
where at? I couldnt find them.
http://store.summitracing.com/...9&y=6</TD></TR></TABLE>
where at? I couldnt find them.
There is nothing per says bad about usingf those mhtods for connection
Some people have personal preference some ppl dont have an expander for slip fits thich 2 of those 3 need the collard i have never seen used in a racing application
i prefer V bands becaseu there easy to connect/disconnect and add a good degreee of versatility
Some people have personal preference some ppl dont have an expander for slip fits thich 2 of those 3 need the collard i have never seen used in a racing application
i prefer V bands becaseu there easy to connect/disconnect and add a good degreee of versatility
The only problem with V-bands is when you are fabricating and installing the piece. Since they are free to rotate, it is possible to get a part out of alignment without really noticing until it's too late. If you pay attention, it's no more difficult to fab with them then normal flanges.
Weight, they are lighter then normal flanges. It's a toss up compared to a slip fit.
Cost, they are cheaper then a set of good CNC'd flanges, a copper gasket, and stainless hardware. Using some cheap *** stamped mild steel flanges, grade 5 bolts and a paper gasket might be cheaper, but you get what you pay for. The V-band is going to seal perfect every time. the only flange setup that can say the same is something with some thick flanges and a good metal gasket.
Full Race sells 3" V-band kits for $50. I like the flanges on the Full race V-bands, they are machined instead of stamped or rolled like most others. I like the quick release clamps of the burns stainless V-bands over the ones full race sells however. Burns wants and extra $30 for their V-band kits though. To the guys at Full Race, any chance you can switch over to the quick release style clamps? I'm lazy and don't like loosening a lock nut down 2" of rod.
Weight, they are lighter then normal flanges. It's a toss up compared to a slip fit.
Cost, they are cheaper then a set of good CNC'd flanges, a copper gasket, and stainless hardware. Using some cheap *** stamped mild steel flanges, grade 5 bolts and a paper gasket might be cheaper, but you get what you pay for. The V-band is going to seal perfect every time. the only flange setup that can say the same is something with some thick flanges and a good metal gasket.
Full Race sells 3" V-band kits for $50. I like the flanges on the Full race V-bands, they are machined instead of stamped or rolled like most others. I like the quick release clamps of the burns stainless V-bands over the ones full race sells however. Burns wants and extra $30 for their V-band kits though. To the guys at Full Race, any chance you can switch over to the quick release style clamps? I'm lazy and don't like loosening a lock nut down 2" of rod.
I bought a couple of burn's v-bands. The clamp is a nice piece, but i've seen better flanges before. It'd be very nice if they had the machined piece like full race although in the end I think the difference would be minimal. You'd think for $80/ea you'd get the machined flanges too lol.
oh well, they still look sick
oh well, they still look sick
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99_GS-T »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only problem with V-bands is when you are fabricating and installing the piece. Since they are free to rotate, it is possible to get a part out of alignment without really noticing until it's too late.
Full Race sells 3" V-band kits for $50. I like the flanges on the Full race V-bands, they are machined instead of stamped or rolled like most others. I like the quick release clamps of the burns stainless V-bands over the ones full race sells however. Burns wants and extra $30 for their V-band kits though. To the guys at Full Race, any chance you can switch over to the quick release style clamps? I'm lazy and don't like loosening a lock nut down 2" of rod.</TD></TR></TABLE>
an easy way to position the v band flange is to slip the tube inside the flange. it usually stays put since they are machined for that OD and its a tight fit. 4 quick tacks will hold it too
. right, ours are cnc'd 1018 cold rolled....they weld really nice
we can get the quick release clamps if you want.....i just use power tools
they look like this

and if you want to use a regular 3 bolt flange, you can just weld the tube inside the flange...it comes out pretty clean.
Full Race sells 3" V-band kits for $50. I like the flanges on the Full race V-bands, they are machined instead of stamped or rolled like most others. I like the quick release clamps of the burns stainless V-bands over the ones full race sells however. Burns wants and extra $30 for their V-band kits though. To the guys at Full Race, any chance you can switch over to the quick release style clamps? I'm lazy and don't like loosening a lock nut down 2" of rod.</TD></TR></TABLE>
an easy way to position the v band flange is to slip the tube inside the flange. it usually stays put since they are machined for that OD and its a tight fit. 4 quick tacks will hold it too
. right, ours are cnc'd 1018 cold rolled....they weld really nice
we can get the quick release clamps if you want.....i just use power tools
they look like this

and if you want to use a regular 3 bolt flange, you can just weld the tube inside the flange...it comes out pretty clean.



