Ok i got my ARP head studs in along with a OEM headgasket from Prostreetonline.com.

I had the head milled 3 thousanth by a very reliable shop. I installed the studs and torqed them to 65 ft lbs of torqe which is what was told if i used there lube which i did. i torqed the cam cams to 20ft lbs. in the following sequence for both cam caps and head studs
9 5 2 3 7

8 4 1 6 10

When the car started ran for 2 seconds and i heard a gurgling noise and i shut it off immediately. i got out and there is oil everywhere... wtf did i do wrong? did arp give me the wrong torqe specs?

 

arp's are torqued in 20 pound increments till you hit 65....i actually torque mine to 75.

 

Did you torque the studs into the motor to 20 lb ft first?

Also use 70 lbs for the head studs

Did you install the head gasket correctly? With the numbers facing up on the passenger side of the block?

 

well the torque issue is not one that would allow it to leak that excessively. did you know that a honda b series head gaskets can be installed upside down? when you do that there is a oil galley on the back left corner of the block under the distributor that is left open. i mean totally open. take the head off and look before you pull the head gasket off i guarantee that you will see the hole i am talking about. you should probably get a new head gasket now and this time make sure that you see the word up on it before the head goes back on. i am curious to how it will turn out. make sure to post. if you only ran it for till it built oil pressure it didnt hurt anything. but some food for thought is to leave the plug wires off and crank the car over till it makes enough pressure toturn off the oil light in the cluster. that way your engine will be totally lubed before starting the first time.

 

Yeah, the HG may be upside down. And just to be sure, ARP calls for two differant TQ specs, one with their assy lube and one with 30 wt motor oil. The numbers should be on a pink piece of paper in the ARP box.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMJoelEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, the HG may be upside down. And just to be sure, ARP calls for two differant TQ specs, one with their assy lube and one with 30 wt motor oil. The numbers should be on a pink piece of paper in the ARP box.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

tq sequence is not as important as putting the head gasket on correctly....

you have put the head gasket on wrong!! now you gotta go buy a new one!

 

i gotta buy a new headgasket when the motor only ran for 2 or 3 seconds? BTW i looked on the headgakset there was no numbers, letters, or anything that said This side up. The arp sheet said 65 ft lbs with there lube and 85 with 30w motor oil.

 

I wouldn't re-use a HG. I'd use whatever torque ARP says to use. You know they determine that by the stretch of the bolt. If you use too much you can overstretch the stud which damages it.

When you torque you use the procedure they specify which is incremental tighening and after you hit the torque spec, backing off and re-torqing each stud 1/4 turn a couple times. That's to smooth out the threads and give an accurate reading. ARP ALSO says you have to re-torque the bolts after you've gotten it hot a couple times. Many people consider this to be optional.

Good to know about the HG. I'm bolting one down today myself.

 

the instructions never said any of that. it just said to torqe them and let them be

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i gotta buy a new headgasket when the motor only ran for 2 or 3 seconds? BTW i looked on the headgakset there was no numbers, letters, or anything that said This side up. The arp sheet said 65 ft lbs with there lube and 85 with 30w motor oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There should be a small set of about 7 numbers in one of the corners, its an exposed metal colored piece...take a picture of the HG and post it up

 

was this head gasket really an OEM Honda piece? I thought pro street sold OEM spec parts, not Honda brand. I have seen a couple aftermarket head gaskets that have no markings on them whatsoever.

 

http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages...q.pdf

Describes the procedure of tightening and loosening the nuts to get an accurate torque reading an smooth the threads. The instructions that came with the head gasket also described it.

As for the re-torquing, I can't find the documented. It was listed in the instruction sheet with the studs and when I called ARP they confirmed it. As I said, many people don't bother with a re-torque and honda doesn't require it with bolts.

 

yes this is Prostreets OEM spec headgasket. there are no numbers or letters on the gasket at all.


Side One


Side Two


Close up

 

look dude on the second pic it says UP

 

where?

 

second cylinder on top w/up punched out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where?</TD></TR></TABLE>



Spray some copper gasket spray on it and you should be good to go

 

ahh i gotcha now

 

cylinder number 3,it looks like it says up

 

im a dumbass..lol

 

Wouldn't be so bad if you didn't have to take the cams off every friken time.

 

yup thats what i thought. upside down. really though dont reuse a head gasket. after it has been torqued and then removed it wont seal as good as it did the first time ever again. good luck