a guy told me to do this for that dam crank bolt, anyone tried doing this?

Nick

 

I've heard of heating up bolts to get them off before, but never on a crankpulley bolt. I wouldn't try it. Have you tried an impact gun?

 

I've heated bolts with a torch plenty of times. I don't think the crank pulley would be a good idea seeing as how you have to heat them pretty hot and one of the main seals is sitting right behind there. Maybe hit it with some penetrating oil or something like that. But you'll more than likely need an impact or at least a crank pulley tool.

 

torches and your spinning assembly do not mix very well

 

I've heard of people doing it before, and I've also heard you have to replace them after that. Just keep working at it. 8ft of leverage, and a big *** extension, it will come off. Trust me.

 

just take it to a tire shop and have them bust it loose with an impact...thats what i always do...if the motor is still in the car its no big deal u can have them loosein it and just barely tightin it back and drive it home then u will be able to loosein it

 

I have used a torch on bolts many times, but yeah, I dunno about the crank pully bolt, I wouldn't use the torch on any ot the rotating assembley bolts. I usually use liquid wrench or wd 40 and turn up the impact as far as it will go. If that doesn't get it, I would get as much leverage as you can and get a long breaker bar.

 

My 1/2" Snap-On gun didn't budge it, even at 180 psi. I then tried the breaker bar, rolled the car forward and dumped the clutch while in reverse gear. All the car did was wheel hop (and yes, it was trying to loosen, not tighten).

Took the car ('90 CRX DX) to a shop that had a 3/4" drive impact. The guy snickered at me and pulled out his 1/2" gun. The extension acted like a torsion bar. He went for the 3/4" gun and promptly snapped the 3/4" to 1/2" adapter.

It eventually came off after he used a 3/4" drive socket (and no extension) after we pulled away part of the wheelwell liner. Guy estimates it was between 450 - 600 ft. lbs. There was no corrosion on the bolt at all and the crank bolt had never been touched before.

I didn't want to use heat for fear of annealing the bolt.

Edit: Heating the bolt won't accomplish anything anyway. It's what the bolt is threaded to that needs to be heated so it expands, that being the crank snout itself which isn't practically accessible anyway. The bolt washer and pulley being heated also won't help things either, not to mention the front main seal getting fried as already mentioned in this thread.


Modified by hybrid2nr at 10:08 AM 11/20/2004

 

thanks guys

 

ive had good success by holding a large flat rod against the head and whacking it with a hammer. seems to relieve some tension and make breaker bar more effective. replace bolt with new one and inspect crank snout threads.