Second O2...splice in a simulator...help! OBD2.
These are wires I have:
black
black
white
green
I need to know the ground and the signal.....the ground "should" be black...but then why are there two black ones??? ah...honda you get a
for this one. By the way I nned to know this so I can install my O2 simulator....thanks in advance for the imput!
black
black
white
green
I need to know the ground and the signal.....the ground "should" be black...but then why are there two black ones??? ah...honda you get a
for this one. By the way I nned to know this so I can install my O2 simulator....thanks in advance for the imput!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one ground is the sensor ground, the other is heater ground
White is sensor +
Green is heater +

(edited for colors
)
Modified by pdiggitydogg at 3:42 PM 11/17/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
did I forget to...
U R the Man!
White is sensor +
Green is heater +

(edited for colors
)Modified by pdiggitydogg at 3:42 PM 11/17/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
did I forget to...
U R the Man!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one ground is the sensor ground, the other is heater ground
White is sensor +
Green is heater +

(edited for colors
)
Modified by pdiggitydogg at 3:42 PM 11/17/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Although your schematic looks to be correct that is not how the signal and heater are setup on my '99 civic. Both the primary and secondary O2 sensors the heater circuit +/- are both back and the signal is white/green. I too run a o2 simulator on my car and had previously hooked it up in the white/black manner however after the CEL returned I did some checking. Both the shop manual and an OHM meter confirm 13.6 Ohms across the two black leads (heater).
Looking at the o2 sensor end as in the above picture -
Upper Left - White (Signal) Upper right - Green (singnal ground)
Lower Left - Black ( +12v heater) Lower right - Black ( heater ground )
The +/- of the drawing seem to be right however the colors are not.
Modified by spdweb.net at 10:38 AM 11/24/2004
Modified by spdweb.net at 10:39 AM 11/24/2004
White is sensor +
Green is heater +

(edited for colors
)Modified by pdiggitydogg at 3:42 PM 11/17/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Although your schematic looks to be correct that is not how the signal and heater are setup on my '99 civic. Both the primary and secondary O2 sensors the heater circuit +/- are both back and the signal is white/green. I too run a o2 simulator on my car and had previously hooked it up in the white/black manner however after the CEL returned I did some checking. Both the shop manual and an OHM meter confirm 13.6 Ohms across the two black leads (heater).
Looking at the o2 sensor end as in the above picture -
Upper Left - White (Signal) Upper right - Green (singnal ground)
Lower Left - Black ( +12v heater) Lower right - Black ( heater ground )
The +/- of the drawing seem to be right however the colors are not.
Modified by spdweb.net at 10:38 AM 11/24/2004
Modified by spdweb.net at 10:39 AM 11/24/2004
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Try this site this is how i wire mine:
http://phear7imports.net/trey/6gen/
thanks to Trey Sullivan
it's in the middle of the page or around the bottom you'll see a diagram.
hope this helps
Last but not least, the second O2. The plug goes through the floor board behind the cup holder. If you have an EX and are performing the swap, then all you need to do is plug the O2 to the plug behind the cup holder. If you have the CX or DX then look at the O2 plug from the pin side and then look at this diagram below and wire to the ecu.

(viewed from the pin side on the male plug)
For the 96-98 OBDII ecu:
1 (green) goes to D13 (green/ blk) for sensor ground
2 (white) goes to D14 (white/ red) for sensor signal
3 (blk/white) goes to A5 (blk/ white) for heater signal
4 (blk/yellow) needs to "TAP" into A11 (yellow/ blk) for 12v power
http://phear7imports.net/trey/6gen/
thanks to Trey Sullivan

it's in the middle of the page or around the bottom you'll see a diagram.
hope this helps
Last but not least, the second O2. The plug goes through the floor board behind the cup holder. If you have an EX and are performing the swap, then all you need to do is plug the O2 to the plug behind the cup holder. If you have the CX or DX then look at the O2 plug from the pin side and then look at this diagram below and wire to the ecu.

(viewed from the pin side on the male plug)
For the 96-98 OBDII ecu:
1 (green) goes to D13 (green/ blk) for sensor ground
2 (white) goes to D14 (white/ red) for sensor signal
3 (blk/white) goes to A5 (blk/ white) for heater signal
4 (blk/yellow) needs to "TAP" into A11 (yellow/ blk) for 12v power
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its straight out of helms...its correct from what I can see
This was for a 96-98 anyway</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah the pin outs are correct on that diagram, looking at the connector but the colors for a 96 - 00 are not.. at least on the cars I have seen. They may differ between o2 sensor brands though.. who knows.
As esoterEK.. said I have my o2sim wired directly to the wireing harness. I am now in the midst of wireing in a resistor to take care of the heater side of the o2 sensor so I can remove the o2 sensor completely. I only have 1 bung (primary o2) in my header so it will work out great.
If anyone is planning to do the same, the heater side of the o2 sensor should measure 10 - 40 ohms (13.6 in my case). A 12v 15ohm resistor wired between the heater leads will take the place of the heater and stop any CEL light.
This was for a 96-98 anyway</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah the pin outs are correct on that diagram, looking at the connector but the colors for a 96 - 00 are not.. at least on the cars I have seen. They may differ between o2 sensor brands though.. who knows.
As esoterEK.. said I have my o2sim wired directly to the wireing harness. I am now in the midst of wireing in a resistor to take care of the heater side of the o2 sensor so I can remove the o2 sensor completely. I only have 1 bung (primary o2) in my header so it will work out great.
If anyone is planning to do the same, the heater side of the o2 sensor should measure 10 - 40 ohms (13.6 in my case). A 12v 15ohm resistor wired between the heater leads will take the place of the heater and stop any CEL light.
I have made an article for this install on my web page.. this may help.
http://spdweb.net/index.php?op...id=64
http://spdweb.net/index.php?op...id=64
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