are this megan any good


wut about this

wich one are good

 

i have a mugen replica on mine...honestly its the same **** more or less.

 

u get what u pay for, more or less

 

exactly, more or less

 

well one from like DC will run you about 100 bones, one from ebay will run 25 shipped. Ebay one will give u say 75-90% effect as the 100 dollar one

 

compare these 2 pics. i rather go with 2nd one.. looks more rigid..
megan looks like DC knockoff? and i know DCs sucks

 

so wut u guys think the bottom one wut u mean about more or less.i wanna know if it wil do the same ****

 

i pay wut i get for everybody say tht wut u mean by tht

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94IntegraLs04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i pay wut i get for everybody say tht wut u mean by tht </TD></TR></TABLE>
just like it sounds. you cheaper you pay, the cheaper (in terms of quality) the part will be. the more you pay, the better quality the part will be. generally when it comes to car parts the cheap knock off brands don't perform and last as long as more expensive, quality parts. there are usually fitment issues with cheaper products as well.

 

thnx well wut u think of the second one would they be good

 

but most bars will do the same job...

 

id go with something better those dont look like they are very rigid

 

they are bullshit (im drunk) reall really drunk

 

please tell me im an *** fro doing thta? im drunk again

 

IMO, just get a itr front strut and itr rear sway..
lower tie bar wont make difference

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaskedDC4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but most bars will do the same job... </TD></TR></TABLE>a lot of people say that, but i think differently. if a strut bar is doing its job stiffening the chassis, it should be under stress during cornering right? something like a strut bar is only as strong as its weakest link. looking at cheaper strut bars (like the ones pictured above), the 'weakest link' is clearly the areas near the mounts where the bar is about the thickness of a large bolt. if you look at the top notch bars, you don't see areas that are that thin (eg. mugen, carbing, benen, etc.). i'm not saying that it makes such a huge difference to justify spending $300 on it, but i would think that they do perform better than a cheap bar. there are plenty of bars out there that are in the middle range of price and seem rigid enough to perform like the oem itr, comptech (which is a itr replica), rigid, and many others.

 

don't let the big money guys fool you. go for the second one. solid is stronger than the semi-hollow, and aluminum is already light, so weight is negligible. fact is these ebay ones are generally have about 75% to 85% the rigidity as DC Sports, Neuspeed ones and such. there's definitely a nice step up with triangulated braces, but in general, the eBay ones work pretty well. i'm a fan of them myself, but do yourself a favor and only get the front upper. after that, have a friend weld in a floor brace in the back instead of a tower, as the tower brace will do nothing, and weld front and rear tie bars if you want them. or get a cusco tie bar, i think i remember that's the good one, but welding a tube of 3/4" steel sure is a lot cheaper. i'm an engineering student here at USF in tampa, FL.


Modified by 95lstegman at 12:03 AM 11/17/2004

 

**** cheap ebay ****. get COMPTECH

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fact is these ebay ones are generally have about 75% to 85% the rigidity as DC Sports ones and such. </TD></TR></TABLE>and where do these factual numbers come from?

 

from how much i have to jump on it to break it!
but really, save your money and get a buddy to weld you something, and make a nice brace for the front that bolts to the firewall.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't let the big money guys fool you. fact is these ebay ones are generally have about 75% to 85% the rigidity as DC Sports ones </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd like to know how you come up with those numbers
Secondly, DC bars suck. Seen them bend many times. I say if you want a rigid bar, don't get one with a bunch of holes in it

And I also would believe (but i'll admit i have no proof) that bars without a pivot joint would be stronger which is why I went with my Benen 3 point front strut bar. (Solid bars, no joints, mounts in stock location and bolts to the firewall.)

I also have the OEM USDM ITR rear sway, and don't think i'll get a rear tower bar until I see something to show me it's worth it.

 

thnx u guys were can i get the comptech one

 

hey u guys wut other good stuff those comptech makes

 

http://www.comptechusa.com/

 

now heres a strut bar