looking for a direct replacement for my current car battery. Is an optima yellow top worth the price? Is there an alternative cheaper solution?


Modified by Tweekerz at 6:13 AM 11/16/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweekerz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looking for a direct replacement for my current car battery. Is an optima yellow top worth the price? Is there an alternative cheaper solution?


Modified by Tweekerz at 6:13 AM 11/16/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>In one word.YES. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In one word.YES. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

to which question?

 

optima

&lt;---shudders

 

yellow optima best choice

 

How old is your current battery and how's your alternator. Yellow top is a deep cycling battery so it's really only beneficial for big current draw systems where everytime the bass hits, the battery drains really low like in the 10V range and the alternator can't charge it to full all the time.

Deep cycling batteries don't need to be charged all the way and when you do recharge it, it'll hold its charge to full.

Also, Yellow tops are good for situations when you'll be bumping with the engine off, so even tho your battery gets low and dies, you can still jump start it up to 400 times. Standard batteries won't charge back 100% after its been depleted around 3-4 times.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

to which question?</TD></TR></TABLE>Both, Yes Optimas are worth it, and yes there are cheaper alternatives. 94

 

Let the record state that I'll probably never own another optima again - they really are not worth it....ask any optima dealer or professional in this industry how many warrant returns they have to do

 

I hear les schwab sells yellow tops for $75. Might want to give them a call. They also make a few direct fits for honda\acura applications.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScareyH22A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How old is your current battery and how's your alternator. Yellow top is a deep cycling battery so it's really only beneficial for big current draw systems where everytime the bass hits, the battery drains really low like in the 10V range and the alternator can't charge it to full all the time.

Deep cycling batteries don't need to be charged all the way and when you do recharge it, it'll hold its charge to full.

Also, Yellow tops are good for situations when you'll be bumping with the engine off, so even tho your battery gets low and dies, you can still jump start it up to 400 times. Standard batteries won't charge back 100% after its been depleted around 3-4 times.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My current battery is 4 yrs old. My alternator SEEMS to be fine for what I can tell. But when i turn the volume near half way on my hu i get bad dimming so i wonder if my amp is working at rated power. ive ran 750wrms before to two 12"type rs ported and dimming was there but not so bad. Now with the brutus 1500d (1500w @ 1ohm) my dash, head-lights, the blue hifonics lighted logo all dim! seems to stick to 14.2-14.4v when started and 13x volts when the engine is off.

 

Go to Wal-Mart and get there batt. Everyone may laugh but with a 3 year free replacment and then 7 years after the 1st 3 years they are pro-rated. they are good batt. and the most expensive one is $59 and go down from there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chucksnee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go to Wal-Mart and get there batt. Everyone may laugh but with a 3 year free replacment and then 7 years after the 1st 3 years they are pro-rated. they are good batt. and the most expensive one is $59 and go down from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do they have deep cycle batteries?[


Modified by Tweekerz at 7:36 AM 11/19/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweekerz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My current battery is 4 yrs old. My alternator SEEMS to be fine for what I can tell. But when i turn the volume near half way on my hu i get bad dimming so i wonder if my amp is working at rated power. ive ran 750wrms before to two 12"type rs ported and dimming was there but not so bad. Now with the brutus 1500d (1500w @ 1ohm) my dash, head-lights, the blue hifonics lighted logo all dim! seems to stick to 14.2-14.4v when started and 13x volts when the engine is off. </TD></TR></TABLE>You are going to need a "bigger" altternator, the amp is drawing more power , [when cranked] then the alt. is putting out, it makes very little differance what type of battery you get, if the amp draws more power then the alt. puts out, you will draw down the batt., at some point the alt. will give out, [as it is being overloaded, and the amp will not produce its rated output.

There is only one fix, an alt. with more output, [amps] anything else is a bandaid 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are going to need a "bigger" altternator, the amp is drawing more power , [when cranked] then the alt. is putting out, it makes very little differance what type of battery you get, if the amp draws more power then the alt. puts out, you will draw down the batt., at some point the alt. will give out, [as it is being overloaded, and the amp will not produce its rated output.

There is only one fix, an alt. with more output, [amps] anything else is a bandaid 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

FCM is right, even if you get a new battery, the alternator still has to charge it. if you cant charge it as fast as you are drawing from it you're in a better situation. get a bigger alternator.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are going to need a "bigger" altternator, the amp is drawing more power , [when cranked] then the alt. is putting out, it makes very little differance what type of battery you get, if the amp draws more power then the alt. puts out, you will draw down the batt., at some point the alt. will give out, [as it is being overloaded, and the amp will not produce its rated output.

There is only one fix, an alt. with more output, [amps] anything else is a bandaid 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

kinda wish my teg came with a larger alternator in the first place! if i am seriously pounding than i have to drive in 2nd gear at 45mph. lights barely dim then when i am revving at 5.5k rpms!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweekerz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

kinda wish my teg came with a larger alternator in the first place! if i am seriously pounding than i have to drive in 2nd gear at 45mph. lights barely dim then when i am revving at 5.5k rpms! </TD></TR></TABLE>LOL, gas mileage must got for a **** 94

 

anyone know how hard it is to change a alternator? and where are ho alts sold? if i wasnt such a bass head i wouldnt have to worry about this. 300wrms &lt;--hell no!