First, the H23A. It has been sleeved and bored to 89mm. The crank we will be using is the F23. ERL fabricated the plugs for the balance shaft (shown in the second picture). The crank for this engine was lightened, balanced, and polished. We will also be using custom JE 14:1 pistons and pauter rods.




Second is the B18A. This one is sleeved and bored to 86mm. The stock crank has been heavily reworked. 7lbs have been removed from this one. this engine also features the new ERL 5 point girdle, probe ultralight rods, 13.5:1 arias pistons.







Please everyone, give me some feedback on what you think about these blocks. If you have any questions feel free to pm me or call us. (see sig)


Modified by 1320project.com at 5:10 PM 11/16/2004

 

thats some weight reduction on rotating mass, knife edge looks nice should let the motor spin with less effort.

 

what head/head work is going onto the b18a?

 

GSR head. ITBs. done by TSR Performance here in MD.

 

lookn good

 

speechless

 

holy ****

 

bumps. for my bad *** block. can not wait till she's running.
thanks much to TSR. they do get work ! see you guys tomarrow.

 

Damn, Nice looking blocks man that girdle looks insane

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OnePointSicks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

holy **** </TD></TR></TABLE>dam.. 7lbs. shaved!?.. good ****..

 

very nice. exactly how much does a b18 like that cost?

 

My brother went to bed. He said he will get back to all of you tomorrow for what questions you have. BUMP FOR ERL PERFORMANCE AND TSR PERFORMANCE.

 

looks great Mike and Steve, always good work from you guys. I can't wait to see "you's" guys at the track.

 

OH, you's are silly. Also thanks to JRP USA for hooking us up with the parts *cough* need bigger discounts*cough*

 

lovin it man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HECDWS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very nice. exactly how much does a b18 like that cost?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those are going to be some crazy torque monsters. I want that crank

-Aaron

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OnePointSicks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

holy **** </TD></TR></TABLE>

Im not a big fan of knife edged cranks....we had one in a setup like your doing for your b18 and the crank ended up bending.....came out of balance, broke the oil pump, loosened every bolt on the flywheel, and loosened the crank pulley bolt. we put a stock crank back in and made the same power.......we talked to omniman about it once when he was up here at the shop.....said he has tested both stock and knife edged cranks and have not seen any huge differences between the 2 other then the stock crank just balanced is more reliable. Besides......if you use an 8lb flywheel then you have done more then enough to reduce the rotating mass of the crank assembly.....and there is such a thing has being to lite!......just offering my experiences and opinion about it, hope it helps out a little.

The setups are really nice and should create great numbers when you are all finished. good luck with your build and keeps us informed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HECDWS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very nice. exactly how much does a b18 like that cost?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Email or pm for prices

 

Nice!

 

well its obvious that the b18 is gonna be an all motor monster, man its gonna rev to redline quick as hell (im assuming a LW flywheel will be used as well)

i do know that endyn has said for a while that its actually better to have a heavier crank for higher revs to help cancel out vibration/harmonics (ex type r is actually heavier)

 

Both of those are all motor seen in the pictures, we also have a block at our shop for turbo. If anyone would like to see those get ahold of one of us (tsr performance or 1320project.com) and we will post some pictures up of that in the Turbo Forum.

 

LOOKING GOOD

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedZone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im not a big fan of knife edged cranks....we had one in a setup like your doing for your b18 and the crank ended up bending.....came out of balance, broke the oil pump, loosened every bolt on the flywheel, and loosened the crank pulley bolt. we put a stock crank back in and made the same power.......we talked to omniman about it once when he was up here at the shop.....said he has tested both stock and knife edged cranks and have not seen any huge differences between the 2 other then the stock crank just balanced is more reliable. Besides......if you use an 8lb flywheel then you have done more then enough to reduce the rotating mass of the crank assembly.....and there is such a thing has being to lite!......just offering my experiences and opinion about it, hope it helps out a little.

The setups are really nice and should create great numbers when you are all finished. good luck with your build and keeps us informed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would have to agree. Crankshafts are made with structural integrity and rigidity that are inherent to their designs. I have read debates between engine builders and engineers about this particular issue, and the resounding arguement is that knife-edging and lightening of the crank causes vibration issues in the second and third order (I'll explain this later), especially at high rpm's. That is why Redzone said that all kinds of bolts where coming lose, etc.

I don't wish to bash TSR or project1320.com, just a little more info on the subject. Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1320project.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First, the H23A. It has been sleeved and bored to 89mm. The crank we will be using is the F23. The crank for this engine was lightened, balanced, and polished. We will also be using custom JE 14:1 pistons and pauter rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Got any pics of that setup? Are the F23 rods the Pauter shelf rods or did you get a shorter compression height piston//longer rod combo? What are you going to do about the H23's mains being 50mm and the F23 crank's being 55mm? I noticed that you also have the H23 oil control orifice. is this going to be a 2.4l VTEC or an actual allmotor H23? What cams/header are you going to run on it? More info please... Looks great!

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suzuka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would have to agree. Crankshafts are made with structural integrity and rigidity that are inherent to their designs. I have read debates between engine builders and engineers about this particular issue, and the resounding arguement is that knife-edging and lightening of the crank causes vibration issues in the second and third order (I'll explain this later), especially at high rpm's. That is why Redzone said that all kinds of bolts where coming lose, etc.

I don't wish to bash TSR or project1320.com, just a little more info on the subject. Good luck! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey, we are going to give it a try. Doing this was recommended to us. If we have to rebuild then so be it. Thanks for the info.

PS- I didnt think it would be making any more power, but it should help us get to our power quicker. Ill rebuild to be quicker. Just a thought