Brand new to the Honda world and need a little help!
I just recently bought a 1995 civic EX for cheap with 185,000 miles. The engine has a grinding noise comming out of the head that is cyclic, it comes and goes about twice a second when the engine is idling. I am thinking it is something with the valve train, but wasn't sure if it may be a Honda quirk that happens all the time. some info on whether or not this is a normal service issue and anything I might be able to do about it would be great. Also, the constant velocity joint covers need to be replaced, and I was wondering if this was a job for a "half-mechanic" or something that needs professional attention on these Hondas. One last thing, the owner's manual specified API Service SF SAE 10W-30 for the manual transaxle, this sounds wrong to me b/c every manual I've had needed a heavy gear oil. Is this the right oil or not?
As for the engine noise, wouldn't know a thing about it....need more description? As for the CV's...anyone who knows what they're doing can do those...I need to do mine myself, mine are shot. Professional install not necessary if you have a skilled friend
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rporter1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just recently bought a 1995 civic EX for cheap with 185,000 miles. The engine has a grinding noise comming out of the head that is cyclic, it comes and goes about twice a second when the engine is idling. I am thinking it is something with the valve train, but wasn't sure if it may be a Honda quirk that happens all the time. some info on whether or not this is a normal service issue and anything I might be able to do about it would be great. Also, the constant velocity joint covers need to be replaced, and I was wondering if this was a job for a "half-mechanic" or something that needs professional attention on these Hondas. One last thing, the owner's manual specified API Service SF SAE 10W-30 for the manual transaxle, this sounds wrong to me b/c every manual I've had needed a heavy gear oil. Is this the right oil or not?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its the right oil. Does the grinding noise sound like a knife being sharpened? Mine did that after 300k miles and a valve seat job fixed it. I would check the distributor rotor and points. Get a mechanics' stethoscope and pin point your noise. Does the engine move when it makes the noise, harmonically?
Its the right oil. Does the grinding noise sound like a knife being sharpened? Mine did that after 300k miles and a valve seat job fixed it. I would check the distributor rotor and points. Get a mechanics' stethoscope and pin point your noise. Does the engine move when it makes the noise, harmonically?
2004.11.12
The valve train noise, that cyclic sound, is most likely just the sound of an overhead camshaft engine at work (normal). Sort of like a "tick-tick-tick-tick-" type of noise is common... if you want to minimize the noise, check the valve adjustment and oil level (change it if it's been a while). If the noise is more severe, i.e. a "clunk-ka-chunk-BANG!" type of noise--- I'd start to get worried.
The CV Joint (constant velocity joint) is a possible "do-it-yourself" little repair project. You'll need a 32mm socket (get a 6 point, not the common 12 point type sockets), a GOOD breaker bar, snap ring, punch (to punch the nut holding that axle in place), and of course a new axle/joint. Transmission oil will pour out, so have a bucket/pan ready for the future mess. Oh, and don't attempt it at first without a manual on hand (a friend whose done this is great too)! My advice is to AVOID cheap rebuilt CV joints/axles... they only leak or break after installation.
And in regards to the oil... 10W-30 for the MOTOR is recommended. The transmission can use the same viscosity (a MANUAL transmission) oil... although I recommend Honda oil (you can get it from the dealer, it'll say "Manual Transmission" fluid on the bottle--- has a red cap). If you go with a non-dealer oil, I've heard that a 10W-30 oil is fine, though I haven't used it myself.
Anyways, good luck!
The valve train noise, that cyclic sound, is most likely just the sound of an overhead camshaft engine at work (normal). Sort of like a "tick-tick-tick-tick-" type of noise is common... if you want to minimize the noise, check the valve adjustment and oil level (change it if it's been a while). If the noise is more severe, i.e. a "clunk-ka-chunk-BANG!" type of noise--- I'd start to get worried.
The CV Joint (constant velocity joint) is a possible "do-it-yourself" little repair project. You'll need a 32mm socket (get a 6 point, not the common 12 point type sockets), a GOOD breaker bar, snap ring, punch (to punch the nut holding that axle in place), and of course a new axle/joint. Transmission oil will pour out, so have a bucket/pan ready for the future mess. Oh, and don't attempt it at first without a manual on hand (a friend whose done this is great too)! My advice is to AVOID cheap rebuilt CV joints/axles... they only leak or break after installation.
And in regards to the oil... 10W-30 for the MOTOR is recommended. The transmission can use the same viscosity (a MANUAL transmission) oil... although I recommend Honda oil (you can get it from the dealer, it'll say "Manual Transmission" fluid on the bottle--- has a red cap). If you go with a non-dealer oil, I've heard that a 10W-30 oil is fine, though I haven't used it myself.
Anyways, good luck!
Actually, I do know what valve tap sounds like, and ths is not it. It does sound kind of like a knife being sharpened or sort of like a rim rolling on pavement with no tire, its pretty loud, but the engine seems to have good pickup and idles very steady.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OptionMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2004.11.12
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And in regards to the oil... 10W-30 for the MOTOR is recommended. The transmission can use the same viscosity (a MANUAL transmission) oil... although I recommend Honda oil (you can get it from the dealer, it'll say "Manual Transmission" fluid on the bottle--- has a red cap). If you go with a non-dealer oil, I've heard that a 10W-30 oil is fine, though I haven't used it myself.
....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I too was skeptical of the low viscosity, so now I use half synthetic SAE 10w-30 and half synthetic 45w gear oil. Works as well or better than honda oil in my '93 DX, albeit more expensive. Have to get the honda crush washers though.
...
And in regards to the oil... 10W-30 for the MOTOR is recommended. The transmission can use the same viscosity (a MANUAL transmission) oil... although I recommend Honda oil (you can get it from the dealer, it'll say "Manual Transmission" fluid on the bottle--- has a red cap). If you go with a non-dealer oil, I've heard that a 10W-30 oil is fine, though I haven't used it myself.
....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I too was skeptical of the low viscosity, so now I use half synthetic SAE 10w-30 and half synthetic 45w gear oil. Works as well or better than honda oil in my '93 DX, albeit more expensive. Have to get the honda crush washers though.
Well, I ran into a mechanic friend and had him listen to it. He told me to check the altenator bearing. So I proceeded to tear the altenator out and when I got around to removing the bottom brace bolt, it wasn't there! The altenator had been slapping up against the block and making that horrible noise! Worse that that, it had been doing it so long that the mount bolt had actually dug a hole through the altenator mounting brace! Anyway thanks for your help.
After all those miles it wouldn't be surprise me that the valve seats would go bad. My 95 hatchback cx has 225000+ miles and it still runs like the day it rolled off the assembly line. With freezy ac and everything.
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