I was wondering of you guys who are actually running LS/VTEC how long have you been running them and what precautionary measures did you take to make it reliable. I'm not really interested in your compression ratio and choice of cams. I want to know what you use to make it rev past 7k reliably. stuff like ARP rod bolts, block girdle, balanced rotating assembly, ect. And please only people with first hand experience none of that "well my friend's friend's LS/VTEC is built with.... because chances are thats only half the story. Any help from people who built there own or had there's built profesioinally would be helpful. Just trying to make sure i spend my money on reliability first then hp.

 

arp rod bolts , stock rods , all honda parts and bearings , no girdle , no balancing , 8800 revlimiter and 65,000 miles yes 65,000 on 8800 all most ever day.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodav &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arp rod bolts , stock rods , all honda parts and bearings , no girdle , no balancing , 8800 revlimiter and 65,000 miles yes 65,000 on 8800 all most ever day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did decide to run a girdle and block gaurd with mine, but i also said no to the balancing.

I have heard from engine builders around here that used to balance the honda cranks quit reccommending it because there was never much to balance.

 

Also, i would use OEM bearings and make sure u got good clearances. Bearings are key longevity.

 

45,000 miles built in 1999

 

so
forged rods and pistons
block girdle
arp rod bolts
and good bearings should make for a reliable block up to about 8500-8800 rpms
should i use gsr bearing or go with a custom set from acl

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_KJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">45,000 miles built in 1999</TD></TR></TABLE>

what did you use in your block

 

i think with all the info that is out now with ls/crv-vtec this set up has come along way and become VERY reliable than most think.
i remember hearing horror stories about them having major leaks between the block and head due to not being properly aligned but now these days dowel pins with no maching have made it a **** load better

 

bump for lsVtec's

 

I kinda wish now I had done an LS/VTEC in my DA instead of a GSR but I know the engine is untouched so it's reliability factor is good, not saying LS/VTEC isn't!

 

ls block
stock rods, ARP bolts
itr pistons
itr oil pump
gsr water pump
balanced rotating assembly

very basic setup and it has worked really good.

 

hondaluva I would say that list u got there sounds pretty good, And i reccommend using the oem bearings. Gsr seems to be a good bet, but i have used the oem ls bearings in mine and no probs so far. Using them w/9,500 fuel cut and its seen that a few times.

Also a good set of dowel pins as suggested makes your life easier and they arent much money. I used the full race pins, and Golden Eagle also makes dowel pins.

GE also makes a killer ls/vtec conversion kit to run the oil line, but u could always to it yourself with some earls or summit fittings for about $50.

 

fully balanced bottom end
micropolished crank journals
rods fitted for GSR bearings
GSR oil/water pump
resized stock rods/bolts

11000 hitting 8000-8500 every time I drive it. The motor runs so smooth just as the day it was assembled

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecDA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fully balanced bottom end
micropolished crank journals
rods fitted for GSR bearings
GSR oil/water pump
resized stock rods/bolts

11000 hitting 8000-8500 every time I drive it. The motor runs so smooth just as the day it was assembled </TD></TR></TABLE>

How long have you been running your set up. How much did the whole balanced rotating assembly cost you.

 

Stock rods, no girdle, all honda parts and b16 bearings, not balance, over 13,000 miles 8500 to 8800 once in a while but i use it for work and i work all over the state...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaluva &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How long have you been running your set up. How much did the whole balanced rotating assembly cost you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wanna know how much balancing the bottom end cost to
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_KJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ls block
stock rods, ARP bolts
itr pistons
itr oil pump
gsr water pump
balanced rotating assembly

very basic setup and it has worked really good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
whats your rev limit? how many miles?

 

93 b18a bored 25 over acl bearings no gertle balanced shotpeened rods factory rod bolts hittin 8500 rpm all summer long and a 55 shot of zex still have awsome oil presure just did compression test still perfect its only got 10,000 miles on it but i beat the *** out of it everyday all day ls/vtec

 

B18B block
Ls rods
PR4 pistons
ARP bolts
GSR oil pump
GSR head and CTR cams
skunk2 harness, chipped to mugen specs
Had it for 2 1/2 years now, prolly over 30,000 or so miles on it.
Runs great, hits 8 grand no prob!
lil oil blow by between shifts it at 8 grand

 

Mine lasted not very long...My fault though....misshifted....only thing I see as down fall for most of the suggestions has been the bearings....OEM PR4 bearings (LS/B20) are bi-metal and should be avoided for RPM usage....ACL's are Tri-metal better suited for higher RPM usage GS-R and ITR's use this type of bearing also...This info is taken directly from rocket...if your gonna replace rod bolts and its that far down go with good bearings....
http://m24x.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=499
Crank Girdle is a plus and balance it... ....With my experience the head flew apart before the bottom end did just an FYI....VAFC read 9999 and dropped 2 valves....

 

mine lasted just over 100 miles.....i didnt personally build it, so im going to do it right....gsr head, stock ls bottomend with b16a pistons...high comp.....dont see any bearing shavings in oil....i think im gonna have my rotating assembly balaced, and put it in a gsr block...so i can get me some of them earl squirters :-)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaluva &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How long have you been running your set up. How much did the whole balanced rotating assembly cost you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have been running it over a year now. the setup costed I think $2100. I got some good deals. The block is pretty much spankin brand new except the pistons and rods. The balancing I believe was $135 - clutch and flywheel, rods, pistons, crank, and crank pulley.

 

with a good balance crank u shouldnt have a problem

 

ok so when yall are talking tri-metal gsr/itr, this is only rod bearings right?
not mains?

 

anyone gonna answer this mans question and bump for more responses to the question at the top.

 

12.1:1 CR, ARP Rod/head bolts, bottom end balance, no girdle, Rev to 8000 RPM... I drive this car from AZ to NC at a crusing RPM of 4300... Runs great.