Car won't start and about to take it to dealer.
Hey peeps. Well where should I start off. My car is an EM1 (2000 Si) with practically stock items NOW. Only mods is I/H/E and maybe some internal head work which is Not very important (valves, springs, retainers); since I gotta smog my car. Well my f-ing car don't want to start; this is what I've check so far.
Main Relay = good (can here prime and plugs have fuel on them)
Dizzy= (Brand New)
Fuel= Yes fuel is present (fuel on plugs when pulled out and smells like fuel)
Spark= Also present (checked by pulling plugs and used timing light)
Fuses= Checked all of them and all are OK.
Compression= Practically 180 ACROSS
Ecu= Tried 2 ECU's from SI (P2T) (still nothing)
Grounds= All should be fine since I've never touched them and they all look good.
Battery= Brand NEW from Honda (also have a mini jumper just in case)
Starter/Switch= Has lots of life left
Timing Belt= A-OK (lots of life)
I think thats it, well now for the story. Once upon a time I decided to do a compression test on my car, failing to pull FI/ECM fuse I wanted to start car after completion of the test Car didn't start (Fast Forward) Ended up being ECU I guess being fried. So after replacing ECU car was OK until I notice like a misfire from 1500-2500rpm then it would pull, after thinking about going back to my MSD I installed it and tried starting it with NO success. Pulled out MSD and put back New distributor on tried once more and no progress. Assuming the ECU was fried again I purchased another one today and No change. Basic troubleshooting was done (checking for Spark, Fuel, compression, timing, fuses, etc) All was fine. I'm almost giving up and prob gonna take it to the dealer tommorow but hopefully peeps can help so I can save Money.
Main Relay = good (can here prime and plugs have fuel on them)
Dizzy= (Brand New)
Fuel= Yes fuel is present (fuel on plugs when pulled out and smells like fuel)
Spark= Also present (checked by pulling plugs and used timing light)
Fuses= Checked all of them and all are OK.
Compression= Practically 180 ACROSS
Ecu= Tried 2 ECU's from SI (P2T) (still nothing)
Grounds= All should be fine since I've never touched them and they all look good.
Battery= Brand NEW from Honda (also have a mini jumper just in case)
Starter/Switch= Has lots of life left
Timing Belt= A-OK (lots of life)
I think thats it, well now for the story. Once upon a time I decided to do a compression test on my car, failing to pull FI/ECM fuse I wanted to start car after completion of the test Car didn't start (Fast Forward) Ended up being ECU I guess being fried. So after replacing ECU car was OK until I notice like a misfire from 1500-2500rpm then it would pull, after thinking about going back to my MSD I installed it and tried starting it with NO success. Pulled out MSD and put back New distributor on tried once more and no progress. Assuming the ECU was fried again I purchased another one today and No change. Basic troubleshooting was done (checking for Spark, Fuel, compression, timing, fuses, etc) All was fine. I'm almost giving up and prob gonna take it to the dealer tommorow but hopefully peeps can help so I can save Money.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SleepyCx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what does it do... i.e does it turn over, or just click, or hell even nothing at all</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes what are symptoms?? check all fuses both under hood and underdash
yes what are symptoms?? check all fuses both under hood and underdash
Well yes it does turn over but it just doesn't even sound like it's firing. You would think that it would at least fire and maybe sound like it, but it doesn't. Just that whiring noise from the starter turning the engine. Just like when you first turn you car on but it never even starts. And yes all fuses under hood and dash were checked a- OK. More help plz
does it turn over & try to start at all? Since you have checked everything, I'd suggest pulling out a test light & probing. It could be a bad ignition switch, or a faulty wire some where. Just a thought...
sounds like a main relay...but i guess you stated that you checked it. sorry, i can help much here, i coudl if i was there with you or something...but theres no use for me giving advice over the internet. good luck
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sheesh man, sounds like you've done all you can . .just take it to honda. . .
did you swap out cams at all?? (sense your tryin to pass smog) if so.. maybe the timing on your cams is off. . what happened to me a few months ago
did you swap out cams at all?? (sense your tryin to pass smog) if so.. maybe the timing on your cams is off. . what happened to me a few months ago
Actually yes I did change the cams back to stock but that was around the time I couldn't get the car to start the first time because I just decided to go to stock but then problem was fixed by swapping out ECU's, like stated in the story. yea I feel like taking it to the dealer, but now all I need is a tow truck
Firing is ok also
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12 or something like that, I went with what my book says and triple checked it. In other words the wiring is good besides, It's kinda hard to incorrectly wire them up when they still got those little wire supporters that somewhat keep them in place.
ICM should be fine since it's a brand new distributor and I did swap it with another one also just in case, but usually if the ignitor is bad then you get no spark.
43
12 or something like that, I went with what my book says and triple checked it. In other words the wiring is good besides, It's kinda hard to incorrectly wire them up when they still got those little wire supporters that somewhat keep them in place.
ICM should be fine since it's a brand new distributor and I did swap it with another one also just in case, but usually if the ignitor is bad then you get no spark.
go to honda, ask them who they use to refer for towing, i almost towed my **** but i got it to start, but it would have been 30bucks to tow (long as you live in the same town as the dealership)
LOL Haleelou-ya I got it. I just saved some money on my car insurance. LOL j/k. Well I figured out the problem, for all of those peeps who have similar problem I found out that for some reason that when it sparked it was actually igniting at BDC. WEll anyways I just turned the dizzy around so
TDC (on dizzy)= TDC(on crank) and boom my car started. Cool HUH. well thnx guys for the help
but I got to it first.
TDC (on dizzy)= TDC(on crank) and boom my car started. Cool HUH. well thnx guys for the help
but I got to it first.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gomez_Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL Haleelou-ya I got it. I just saved some money on my car insurance. LOL j/k. Well I figured out the problem, for all of those peeps who have similar problem I found out that for some reason that when it sparked it was actually igniting at BDC. WEll anyways I just turned the dizzy around so
TDC (on dizzy)= TDC(on crank) and boom my car started. Cool HUH. well thnx guys for the help
but I got to it first.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow
good job bro . . . always ways to fix sum'n
TDC (on dizzy)= TDC(on crank) and boom my car started. Cool HUH. well thnx guys for the help
but I got to it first.</TD></TR></TABLE>wow
good job bro . . . always ways to fix sum'n
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