Im starting to collect parts for my manual swap
I need to buy a clutch and a flywheel but i dont know much about either. I do however know that i shouldnt go any lighter than about 12lbs with the flywheel b/c it makes it hard to drive for everyday use. It will be my daily driver so what do you guys suggest i look at?
I was looking at this clutch and it sounded like it fit my needs, is it a good buy?http://store.yahoo.com/hopup1/cestiidiandp.html

 

ACT 6 puck, and lighter fly wheel.

check sponsors forum, there is a guy who has a pretty good deal going, both for about 500.

it is a 11.something lb flywheel.

Do you know how to drive a stick yet? because have fun learning on an aftermarket one. And it doesnt make it harder to drive...just different. Lighter flywheels make your engine rev faster, and de-rev....faster.....just have to get used to it. If anything, the big difference is in the tighter and more responsive clutch engagement.

btw....how much are you going to end up paying for this swap? with clutch, tranny, work, everything...i still think you are better off selling your prelude and getting a 5spd base.

 

ACT six pucks aren't made for the street. Sprung hubs are a good idea. I would get a Exedy Sport Disc and a chromoly flywheel.

 

I found the tranny for 375 and i need a clutch and flywheel. Finding a good tranny was the hard part, im sure i can scrape together all the other parts. As for the labor im not sure exactly how much it will cost, i have a few options on where to go such as Alamo Auto Sports, Wasabi, and JoTech. If anyone wants to sell me some of the parts i need for the swap send me an email. stevensolazzo@yahoo.com
Parts list---->http://www.mazmo.com/zameoj/swap.htm

 

I have a Fidanza 8lb flywheel (cost me $205 shipped to me) and an Exedy Race clutch.

If you are only going to use your car on the streets, and OEM Exedy clutch is fine. I would not go anymore than an Exedy Race clutc (That's what I have. It cost me $248 shipped to me).

I track my car and these parts are perfectly fine for it. All of the other clutches are over kills if you don't track your car, or have a healily modded car.

 

How is this for a flywheel/clutch package.
http://www.prostreetonline.com...b-12/

I wont be major hard core racing but the car will be raced. Looks like a good price

 

You can get a combo like that for cheaper. I bought an OEM Exedy clutch from ClutchCityOnline for $120 shipped to me.

If you are looking to save a few bucks, I would buy the OEM clutch from ClutchCityOnline (I found them on eBay for $105+$15 shipping) and get a Fidanza 8lb flywheel for $205 shipped to you.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33730

I believe I bought my Fidanza flywheel from Prostreet. I know I paid $205 shipped for it.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WDVW

Flywheel. He seems to have very good feedback, too.

 

Im sort of debating the drivability differance between the 8lb and the 12 lb flywheel.
Since i normally dont drive a standard is this going to be impossible for me to drive?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ItalynStylion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im sort of debating the drivability differance between the 8lb and the 12 lb flywheel.
Since i normally dont drive a standard is this going to be impossible for me to drive?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you can't drive stick well, I suggest that you learn to do so before spending an upwards of $500 on a clutch/flywheel and then beating the **** out of it because you can't drive.

Also, if you're not used to driving stick, you may want to go with the 12 pound flywheel for your daily driving. However, I run an ACT ProLite, and I love it. It's really your choice.

If I were you, I would buy a new car. Learn to drive on it and then do your stuff. An auto to manual conversion is just to pricey, IMO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ItalynStylion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im sort of debating the drivability differance between the 8lb and the 12 lb flywheel.
Since i normally dont drive a standard is this going to be impossible for me to drive?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The 8lb is NOT hard to drive. I have NO IDEA why people ever said it was. In fact, the 8lb flywheel made it easier to drive for me. Between shifts, the motor revs down fast enough where the rpms are just perfect when shifting to the next gear.

I LOVE it. It should've been this way from the factory.

 

i have one too, and i love it

 

http://www.prostreetonline.com...b-12/
this link is for a f22 flywheel and clutch combo.

just go with a stage 1 or stock clutch, a 6 puck will have harsh engagement (compared to stock) and is unnecessary.
you can go lighter than 12 lbs but it is up to you. If you go with a flywheel lighter than 12lbs it is no longer chromoly (steel) it is in the aluminum territory then. Almost all aluminum flywheels are fidanzas (other people just slap their name on them.)
the one drawback to a aluminum flywheel is the possiblility that it could warp easier if you were relentless on it (not saying it doesnt cool down quicker) but that is about as likely as hydrolocking your motor with a CAI in arizona.

 

i just got a clutch from clutch specialties in fullerton ca 714-525-4272 talk to brian a really nice guy well i got a stage 3 6 puck clutch for my lude got the stock flywheel clean up and lightend to 12lbs all cost 350 with clutch included man all worth it felt a big difference on my 95 jdm h22 motor rpm's go up like crazy clutch grabs right away its really easy to drive!

 

do they have a web site? How much was the clutch alone?

 

i don't think they have a website but the clutch was only 250 cheap hu just call brian and tell him what ur into like street drag road racing etc. im more into street road racing!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H23AHybridEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you can't drive stick well, I suggest that you learn to do so before spending an upwards of $500 on a clutch/flywheel and then beating the **** out of it because you can't drive.

Also, if you're not used to driving stick, you may want to go with the 12 pound flywheel for your daily driving. However, I run an ACT ProLite, and I love it. It's really your choice.

If I were you, I would buy a new car. Learn to drive on it and then do your stuff. An auto to manual conversion is just to pricey, IMO </TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree. clutch pedals will start to get stiffer and if you arn't good at driving stick, your going to have fun stalling all the time for the first couple days if you drive it a lot..if not you will probably over rev and burnout..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H23AHybridEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you can't drive stick well, I suggest that you learn to do so before spending an upwards of $500 on a clutch/flywheel and then beating the **** out of it because you can't drive.

Also, if you're not used to driving stick, you may want to go with the 12 pound flywheel for your daily driving. However, I run an ACT ProLite, and I love it. It's really your choice.

If I were you, I would buy a new car. Learn to drive on it and then do your stuff. An auto to manual conversion is just to pricey, IMO </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by andyd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The 8lb is NOT hard to drive. I have NO IDEA why people ever said it was. In fact, the 8lb flywheel made it easier to drive for me. Between shifts, the motor revs down fast enough where the rpms are just perfect when shifting to the next gear.

I LOVE it. It should've been this way from the factory</TD></TR></TABLE>


it makes it way harder for people to learn how to drive stick. might be easier for you, but most people dont have good clutch/gas feetwork as second nature to them if they didnt drive a manual car as a daily driver. i mean, i was talking to a friend that thought he was good at driving stick and he thought you put the car in neutral and revved it up then you clutch and shift into first gear and mashed it...i looked at him like a moron..btw, he drove my car, he stalled and just jumped outa my car.

 

So if i were to go with the OEM Exedy clutch, http://clutchcityonline.com/Me...8-024
What could i run to the wheels and be ok? This is the start of my build up so i dont want to have to get a new one if this one cant handle more than stock power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ItalynStylion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if i were to go with the OEM Exedy clutch, http://clutchcityonline.com/Me...8-024
What could i run to the wheels and be ok? This is the start of my build up so i dont want to have to get a new one if this one cant handle more than stock power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the exact same clutch I told you that I have for sale. It has 15K miles.

Exedy is a GREAT clutch maker. I would say that this clutch can hold up to 210whp no problem.

 

hey they do have a website http://www.clutchspecialties.com check it out!