Ok so when I drive, the car pulls to the right and the RF passenger wheel feels like it is warped or the tire has seperated from the belt. So I swapped on my old rim and it still feels the same( thus both the tire and rim are fine)
I can see that the CV boot is torn open so my question is this:

Should I replace the entire axle, or mess around trying to just replace the CV Axle?

Can anyone tell me what the price difference might be?

TIA

 

its easier to replace the whole CV axle instead of just messing around with the CV joint itself.

 

anyone have an explanation on how to remove the balljoint without breaking it?

 

why not just change the whole axle? its ALOT easier

 

OK so I swapped the driver's side rim with another replacement and it stop thumping and pulling to the right. It looks like I just had a seperated tire on the driver's side. It now pulls slightly the other way, but I think thats because of the tire pressure diff and the tire size diff. The CV boot is torn completely open on the pass side and most of the grease has been blown all over the inside of the rim and caliper. SO, I think I shoud replace the pass side axle, get a new tire/alignment and then see how it drives? How much are the axles each? Should I just replace both in case the other CV boot tears open?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan1220 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not just change the whole axle? its ALOT easier</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was under the impression I had to change each side, as it is a 2-piece....


Gonna cost me 70-80 a side, right?

 

take 17mm nut off ball joint at bottom of steering knuckle, take big hammer and strike the lower control arm where the ball joint shaft goes through the control arm. DO NOT HIT THE BALL JOINT! hitting the control arm should vibrate the ball joint loose without breaking it.

if this fails, place prybar between steering knuckle and control arm, and (if you have access to a lift, like i had) hang off of the prybar like a monkey, or (if you do not have a lift, like I have done MANY times) stand on the prybar. [disclaimer: use some sort of common sense. if the prybar slips and hits your fender, do not come crying to me]

in this fails, then invest in a ball joint separator tool, also known as a "picklefork". place tool between the ball joint and the control arm, and strike the end of the tool. this can damage the ball joint, so use caution and, again, common sense.

if this fails, something is seriously messed up. seek professional help that can give first hand help.

 

a 2 jaw gear puller saves a crapload of time and work. you just remove the castlenut, place the jaws around the part of the LCA the ball joint is attached. then put the screw part onto the bolt that goes through the LCA, use a socket wrench and tighten down the screw part of the tool and a few turns later, it will pop loose and you can just pull it out.

it saves a lot of banging and jumping. and its only $20 at the auto parts store.