i was wondering how i determine the shade of the glass or plastic whatever on the helmet...some helmets around the shop are REALLY dark..too dark for me...really hard too see..however my other friends helmet isnt as dark and i can weld with it pretty good..i was wondering how i can determine the shade of the glass so that when i buy my own helmet it will be the lightness/darkness that i want n need.thanks alot

 

when you buy your helmet use shade 10 for mig and 11 for tig! if you want you can use 11 for both. unless you buy an auto darkening then you can adjust to these settings..

 

"when you buy your helmet use shade 10 for mig and 11 for tig! if you want you can use 11 for both. unless you buy an auto darkening then you can adjust to these settings.."

Not true.. i use as low as 9 for tig welding. I use an autodarkening and 9 comes in handy when doing fine welds

 

If you are going to use plastic you will have to use a clear glass lens in front of the plastic ,I would just get glass lens. For tig try an 8 or 9 for sheet metal,10,11,12 for stick, mig I don't know.

 

i use 9 for all mig and most tig... dc up to around 120a and but in ac generally anything over 80 i use either 10 or 11... for plasma cutting i have a setting which is alot less called torch... it just darkens it enough not to hurt ur eyes

 

so nobody knows how too determine your shade ?

 

not unless you know the helmet brand/model.

 

Minimum Shade for Oxyfuel cut or oxyfuel welding is shaded 5 lens. If your eye's are sensitive, go on shade lens up.

Minimum for Shade for ARC, MIG, or TIG is shade 10 lens. At this lens level it could be varied by what kind of gas is used. Shaded 10 lens is the least level lens you should be using orelse your looking into ultra violent light. If you are in a closed dark inviroment welding TIG, preferred lens shade is between 12~14.

 

I use a number 9 for everything welding... O/A cutting i dont use a shade and i can see perfectly.... Now where did i leave that magnifying glass again.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not unless you know the helmet brand/model.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just bought this helmet

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...91212

So what shade would be best for mig ?

There are also sensitivity settings, high or low, which one would be better. I'm guessing high

Also for delay time, there is fast and slow ?

So what shade would be best for mig ?

 

go with an auto darkening eye peice ... you'll love it

 

GOLDBERG : so nobody knows how too determine your shade ?

some of the newer lenses have it etched in to them but you would have to remove the glass to see ... if it is older ... most likely the only way to tell is comparison or a color guide that that manufacturer supplies... but listen if it is that old that you dont even know the shade why not just replace it ???

 

My book says 10 I think, I tried using 9 but it seemed like after a while I started to see white blobs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I just bought this helmet

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...91212

So what shade would be best for mig ?

There are also sensitivity settings, high or low, which one would be better. I'm guessing high

Also for delay time, there is fast and slow ?

So what shade would be best for mig ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I use one of those HF cheapies. My helmet is shaped a little different but the lens and **** look identical as does the price. I set mine on fast and high. I keep the darkness at 13 and have no problems seeing when I'm MIGing thick stuff. One warning with an autodarkening setup, A couple times I have been flashed because even thought my eyes were able to see the arc the sensors were just out of line so it didn't switch over. Otherwise I have used it for about 30lbs of .023 wire and it still works great. Replacing/cleaning the plastic shield every day sucks though. This is what my welds look like.&gt;

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I use one of those HF cheapies. My helmet is shaped a little different but the lens and **** look identical as does the price. I set mine on fast and high. I keep the darkness at 13 and have no problems seeing when I'm MIGing thick stuff. One warning with an autodarkening setup, A couple times I have been flashed because even thought my eyes were able to see the arc the sensors were just out of line so it didn't switch over. Otherwise I have used it for about 30lbs of .023 wire and it still works great. Replacing/cleaning the plastic shield every day sucks though. This is what my welds look like
[/img]</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice welds. Yeah I know what your talking about, a lot of people say if the sensor is not in the right spot it won't catch it. My mask is pretty sensitive though, if you flick a lighter by the glass it will auto darken right away. Really make it so much easier to weld.

 

Are you pumping the button on and off? It looks like it.

 

There is no science or law to chosing the correct shade. Basically, when it's too bright, move up a shade. If you see spots after a bead, you need to move up a shade. When I MIG weld 3/8" steel plate @ 27 volts, I use a #12 shade, if I weld at 34v, I'll use a 13 or even a 14. That ish gets bright!

For 16G steel piping with the TIG, I use a #10 shade.