I know v-tec cannot kick in when a motor is cold. is it ok to get my motor up to 6 or 7 thousand rpms when its still cold. i didn't know if its ok or didnt matter or what, thanks

 

NO.

There is no reason at all for you to be revving that high with a cold engine . . . VTEC doesn't engage when cold for a reason. It doesn't take long for the engine to warm up and the ECU to go to open loop, just wait it out!

 

you also gotta wait for the oil to get circulating... why do you think your oil pressure is so high when your car is cold...

 

*smacks head on desk* Why would you want to rev your engine high when it's cold anyway?

 

i dont want to it was just a question: the guy i bought the car from has a piece of **** thermostat (spelling?) and it takes about 10 minutes for the car to warm up on a warm day. how much would a thermostat run me?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmjeff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont want to it was just a question: the guy i bought the car from has a piece of **** thermostat (spelling?) and it takes about 10 minutes for the car to warm up on a warm day. how much would a thermostat run me?
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15.00

From slhondaparts.com

 

Thermostats are very cheap at autozone. Don't rev it out when it'scold. The oil needs to warm & circulate so that everything is well lubricated.

 

Reving a cold engine high is probably one of the worst things you can do to an engine.

 

I live in Massachusetts, and this being my first winter with a Honda, my 98 EX warms up from stone cold at 35 degrees in about 6-8 minutes tops to running temp. Even if you dont trust the t-stat, give the engine at least 5 minutes anyways.

 

I always let my car idle for 45seconds to a minute before driving if it's warm outside, and then I take it easy until the water temp is fully warm on the temp guage. If it's cold out, I'll let it idle for 3 minutes or so, and then follow normal procedure. I just figure that it's better to be safe than sorry.

 

thanks guys, i know there was an obvious answer to this question but i always figure the only stupid question is the on unasked, THANKS

 

I just let my **** idle in the cold until I can hear the idle drop (multiple times, that is).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmjeff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys, i know there was an obvious answer to this question but i always figure the only stupid question is the on unasked, THANKS </TD></TR></TABLE>
Can't argue with that

I just tend to get frustrated sometimes with some of the "stupid" questions because the person asking them usually doesn't take the time to think or search for their own answers. Sorry if I come off as an *******

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboTagTeam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Reving a cold engine high is probably one of the worst things you can do to an engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>


...along with revving it aimlessly in neutral

 

Heat kills. Thats that. In very cold weather, start the car, go finish brushing your teeth or whatever, then go to it. Give it a few minutes. I have enough time to let my car get to operating temp before I leave, mainly cause I'll go cruise around aimlessly for hours. But they have synthetic oils that help on a cold start by lubricating better. Its called Amsoil, and its THE best oil your engine will take. However, i reccomend Mobil1 synthetic, cause Amsoil is hard to find, i get it from a guy that orders it to his house and resells from there.

 

Its very bad to rev your motor when cold

 

I use Mobil1 super synthetic oil in my hatch. also i was "gettin on it " yesterday and it seemed like VTEC wasn't kicking in till 5500 rpms and it usually kicks in @ 4800 because i have a skunk 2 ecu. then 2nd through 5th gear it kicked in a2 4800 again. i dont think that its just me but is this possible. i really dont need VTEC @ 4800 because all i mostly do in first is spin through it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Can't argue with that

I just tend to get frustrated sometimes with some of the "stupid" questions because the person asking them usually doesn't take the time to think or search for their own answers. Sorry if I come off as an ******* </TD></TR></TABLE>

Targa, you're one of the most helpful people on the site.

As far as driving habits in the cold, I just keep the revs under 2k until I get the car warmed up on the gauge. Then I try to keep it under 3k until my wideband jumps into open loop and I'm actually running off of my 02 sensor.

 

There is no reason 4 u to be reving high when your engine is cold,and it doesnt matter if cold are not ur idle should never be high.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Targa, you're one of the most helpful people on the site.

As far as driving habits in the cold, I just keep the revs under 2k until I get the car warmed up on the gauge. Then I try to keep it under 3k until my wideband jumps into open loop and I'm actually running off of my 02 sensor. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Good advice right here. Hondas take awhile to warm up anyway. Your ten minutes total to warm up is not that long at all if it is just sitting parked idling. I can let my y7-t idle in my driveway for 10 min and the water temp needle barely even brakes the low line.

My normal starting routine is to start it in the morning let the turbo timer run for 8 minutes while I make my lunch jump back in the car start it up and drive it easy until the water temp is up in the normal operating range and then I will drive normally.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fishnfst &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Good advice right here. Hondas take awhile to warm up anyway. Your ten minutes total to warm up is not that long at all if it is just sitting parked idling. I can let my y7-t idle in my driveway for 10 min and the water temp needle barely even brakes the low line.
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Yep, same thing here. Y7 and boost makes you a lot more aware of that temp gauge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMEk9Gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no reason 4 u to be reving high when your engine is cold,and it doesnt matter if cold are not ur idle should never be high.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's funny, mine idles at about 1500-2000 when cold, then drops once its at operating temp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHC4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's funny, mine idles at about 1500-2000 when cold, then drops once its at operating temp. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I was under the impression all cars did that? I have heard that in under a minute your oil is up to temp anyway, but still I take it easy till the coolant gauge is where it should be.

 

not only the engine, but a lot of people ignore the fact that the tranny is lubricated also. Cold oil does not lubricate the same as oil at its desired operating range.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not only the engine, but a lot of people ignore the fact that the tranny is lubricated also. Cold oil does not lubricate the same as oil at its desired operating range.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Another helpful post from antother very helpful member.