Installed a Catz Hi/Low HID system in with relay and all, when I turn em on the driver's side stays on but the passenger flickers once and doesn't come on. I was thinkin maybe the passenger starter isnt working or just not starting up.. any suggestion?

 

You have to up the current fuse you have for the lights. Mine did the same thing. I had to go up to a 30. You may or may not have to. The instructions should tell you what to replace your current fuse with. Hope this helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SweetSol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have to up the current fuse you have for the lights. Mine did the same thing. I had to go up to a 30. You may or may not have to. The instructions should tell you what to replace your current fuse with. Hope this helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used to work for an Hid Company, so if you need help PM me i'll help you out. It actually can be a lot of things.

Incorrect grounding, bad starter, bad ballista, bad capsules, fuse.

But 96-00 Civic headlight fuse is 30v's so you should not have to replace it.

 

if it was a bab bulb or anythin like that, then it wouldnt light up at all right? the stock honda fuse is 10 isnt it? or am I looking at the wrong one?

 

I have the same problem, but my ballast is Hella 2nd gen.
My left front light doesn't start until the voltage is about 13.5 or higher.
Don't know why, maybe the thick wire of the bulb connector is damaged

 

I have a Phillips HID system and my D side headlight usually won't come on when I turn my headlights on unless I flick the lights on and off really quick for a few seconds then it usually comes on. However if my lights have been on for a while and are hot, it's a real bitch to get it to turn on again...I have to constantly flick the lights on and off really fast for a while. I tried swapping the bulbs but it made no difference so I'm thinking it's the ignitor... maybe I'll check my fuses to see if they're right.

 

It really is'nt good to flicker HID's on and off quickly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S(J)O(D)L(M) &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It really is'nt good to flicker HID's on and off quickly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe not but it's the only way to get it to turn on so I don't have a choice...if it blows it blows but I've had to do it for the last 3+years and nothing bad has happened yet.

 

10AMP fuse sounds a little low. But it could be the headlight fuse. The cover of the fuse box should tell you the headlight amp fuse size. Can almost promise you that once you up the fuse that the lights will work. Let me now how it works out.

 

P.S. I have the Phillips H.I.D system too. That flickering the switch to get both lights to work seems to be do to a connection failer somewhere. I would rip the whole system out and check the wiring for corrosion. Exspecialy on the pieces that connect to other pieces. You may have done all this already though. Just thought I'd give my two cents. Hope it helps.

 

hmmm, trying to understand how changing the fuse to a higher rating would up the current on that line. for one a fuse is just a wire (near 0 ohms). changing a 10 A fuse to a 30 A fuse will not change the RT of that circuit. No if the load (being the HID) is changing the RT (resistance total) then yes with same voltage the current would increase via ohm's law. If that was true than your 10A fuse should burn open since it is rated at 10A. Now if the new current is like 11 A then a 10 A fuse could stay closed due to tolerance. But going from 10A to 30A, then that 10 A fuse would blow. BTW ohm's law is I=V/R
I=current
V=voltage
R=resistance
decrease the resistance and the current will increase

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SweetSol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P.S. I have the Phillips H.I.D system too. That flickering the switch to get both lights to work seems to be do to a connection failer somewhere. I would rip the whole system out and check the wiring for corrosion. Exspecialy on the pieces that connect to other pieces. You may have done all this already though. Just thought I'd give my two cents. Hope it helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the input but the kit has done this since the day it was installed so there wasn't any corrosion. I did go back and check all the connections and everything was good, that's also when I swapped bulbs to see if that made any difference but it didn't. I think it may be an ignitor problem with the D side light.

 

My grounding kit helps me with that problem, not solved it completely. Try to connect to chasis the negative(-) of the ballast

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ulemu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My grounding kit helps me with that problem, not solved it completely. Try to connect to chasis the negative(-) of the ballast</TD></TR></TABLE>

at what point in the wiring should I do that at?

 

ok guys, i ran into this problem and found that the cause was bad insulation where the bulbs connect to the harness coming from the ballasts. There is not enough insulation to keep 30,000 volts from arching and grounding out on the chasis. therefore, my solution was to wrap the connections in electrical tape many times so you get about 1/4" more insulation. Then, i put that self-adhesive foam pipe insulation over the connectors and zip-tied them. These precautions also help keep water out of the connections. The other problem i ran into was a corroded fuse in the inline holder. Since i have corrected both problems, my HIDs have ignited every time i turn them on. Hope this helps, good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Iceman05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok guys, i ran into this problem and found that the cause was bad insulation where the bulbs connect to the harness coming from the ballasts. There is not enough insulation to keep 30,000 volts from arching and grounding out on the chasis. therefore, my solution was to wrap the connections in electrical tape many times so you get about 1/4" more insulation. Then, i put that self-adhesive foam pipe insulation over the connectors and zip-tied them. These precautions also help keep water out of the connections. The other problem i ran into was a corroded fuse in the inline holder. Since i have corrected both problems, my HIDs have ignited every time i turn them on. Hope this helps, good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the good info. So are you saying that where the bulb plugs into the socket of the wire that goes back to the ballast box is where you wrap it with extra insulation? In that area of my headlight I have a thick rubber boot that seals around the headlight and HID wire so I wouldn't think that it would be able to arc there but I'll have another look.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Iceman05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok guys, i ran into this problem and found that the cause was bad insulation where the bulbs connect to the harness coming from the ballasts. There is not enough insulation to keep 30,000 volts from arching and grounding out on the chasis. therefore, my solution was to wrap the connections in electrical tape many times so you get about 1/4" more insulation. Then, i put that self-adhesive foam pipe insulation over the connectors and zip-tied them. These precautions also help keep water out of the connections. The other problem i ran into was a corroded fuse in the inline holder. Since i have corrected both problems, my HIDs have ignited every time i turn them on. Hope this helps, good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same deal with computer/tv monitors same voltage smaller component. back of the tube has very thick rubber insulation to keep from arcing.

 

Get the light issue taken care of?

 

not yet, decided to clean up the whole engine bay. so I ripped everything out

 

Cool. Always nice to work in a clean engine bay. Makes things easier to see. Let me know how you like the Catz. I'm thinking about getting those.