I am about to conquer my timing belt any advice? I heard the crank bolt is a pain, I ordered the Crank holder tool . I also got some magnetic parts dishes and got the digital camera ready take some pics I case i forget where everything soes. I can take my time and work on it since i have a 2nd car to drive.

If i cant break the crank bolt can I take it to a a friends who has a big compressor and good air tools , have him break/ loosen the bolt and retighten just enough to where i can get it off at home then take go from there?

Also when I support the engine with a wooden block and a floor jack am I suppose to jack up the engine to gain better access? or leave it in place just supporting the engine?


thanks fella's.




Modified by 1998hondaaccord at 2:33 AM 11/4/2004

 

if you can not get the nut off and take it to your mates i would put the nut back on as tight as you can useing a 1/2 inch rechet.
why are you goint to support the engine, if it is anything like the uk modal all you need to do is just remove the one engine mount and do not need to support the engine. the engine will drop a little bit but not enough to cause a problem. i do these all the time at work and have not had any problems with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1998hondaaccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IAlso when I support the engine with a wooden block and a floor jack am I suppose to jack up the engine to gain better access? or leave it in place just supporting the engine?
Modified by 1998hondaaccord at 2:33 AM 11/4/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just bring the jack up to where it contacts the oil pan, and then a little bit more to make sure it's in place. you don't really have to jack the motor up, just support it when you take off the mount.

if you're not already planning on it, do the water pump at the same time. consider the thermostat as well since you'll have the cooling system drained anyway.

you'll need a 1/4 drive socket set. I couldn't get my 3/8 into the confined space.

when you install the belt let any slack go to the water pump side of the crankgear. First time I put the belt on mine i ended up one tooth off and thats what I had to do to get it set correctly. No big deal but it's not mentioned in the Helms.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jweller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i just bring the jack up to where it contacts the oil pan, and then a little bit more to make sure it's in place. you don't really have to jack the motor up, just support it when you take off the mount.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

could you tell why you have to support the engine. I work for honda here in the uk and we do not need to support the engine at all when doing the timing belt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by edd001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

could you tell why you have to support the engine. I work for honda here in the uk and we do not need to support the engine at all when doing the timing belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I do it as to not put unneeded stress on the mounts.

As for breaking that crank pulley bolt free, here's what we did to get it loose without using air tools.

We used the special tool to hold the crank with a 1/2" drive rachet inside a pipe for leverage and then a 1/2" drive 19mm with a 1/2" drive 20" extension connected to a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a pipe for extra leverage. Make sure you have somone holding the extension in place so it doesn't move and strip the bolt head.

When you tighten it back down make sure you tighten it to 181 ft/lbs.

Also, I know I told some people that I would be doing a write-up for this a while ago. I haven't forgot, I just haven't had time yet. I will get that done asap.

 

yeah mine is coming up soon....

i have the helms manual but a write-up would be awesome!

-chris

 

yeah, I'll get it done asap. I already loaded the pictures, I just haven't had time to sit down and do the actual write-up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I do it as to not put unneeded stress on the mounts.

As for breaking that crank pulley bolt free, here's what we did to get it loose without using air tools.

We used the special tool to hold the crank with a 1/2" drive rachet inside a pipe for leverage and then a 1/2" drive 19mm with a 1/2" drive 20" extension connected to a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a pipe for extra leverage. Make sure you have somone holding the extension in place so it doesn't move and strip the bolt head.

When you tighten it back down make sure you tighten it to 181 ft/lbs.

Also, I know I told some people that I would be doing a write-up for this a while ago. I haven't forgot, I just haven't had time yet. I will get that done asap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

fair enough comment about support.
we at work often find that our air tools will not undo the crank bolt and have to undo it the way you have showed in the picture.
I would say though that we always undo the bolt before we remove the engine mount as you do not get half as much movement on the engine as if it was taken of first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by edd001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would say though that we always undo the bolt before we remove the engine mount as you do not get half as much movement on the engine as if it was taken of first.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed. If you loosen the bolt before removing the mount you won't get as much movement but there wasn't much movement that way either.