basically what the topic says. crx hf w/ b16a1. the only thing i can think of is something to do with the vaccum lines? the hf "black box" is confusing so basically all im using is the canister and map. it looks right according to the diagrams that i have found on here but most of those are with the si and it doesn't have that stupid black box. maybe i just need to buy a si map? otherwise it runs good, no hesitation and good constant highway crusing.

 

is some of the decceleration from the engine "braking?" the B16 has aggressive gearing so maybe a lot of it is just the engine/tranny braking.

just a thought.

 

Any codes/CEL?

 

ya its the engine braking, its just a sudden braking kind like tapping on the brakes really hard and then letting up. no CEL

 

i just read something about setting a tps. when is got my motor mine was broken so i had to put a new one on, which for me consisted on 2 screws and plugging it in, could this be my problem? i haven't notice any idle problems though

 

First the basics:
1) are you running a pr3/pw0 ecu?
2) have you tested your map sensor?
3) have you tested your tps? does your car hesitate before accelerating if you slam the gas pedal down? if so your tps needs adjusting or it isn't working.
4) have you checked your compression?
5) have you checked your spark timing?


the 'falling on its face' really sounds like it would be dragging brakes unless you're blowing the deceleration out of proportion. Do your brakes have any vibration when you use them normally?

does it fall on its face no matter what rpm you're in? Does it do it at like 2K rpm in 5th gear? cause at 8k rpm you're really going to have a lot of forward weight shift and engine braking. Does it feel the same as it does when you rev first all the way up and let off the gas without pushing the clutch?

 

It needs to be adjust to the right specs. I would run and drive no problem with the TPS out of adjustment, but it does need to be set... If you have never touched a volt/ohm meter, I would take it to someone that knows how, or to a dealer.

Anyways, to set the TPS position, you need to measure the votage of the middle (red) wire. I just depinned my red wire and stuck a threading needle (gotta love the girl friend ) into that hole on the connector. The plug needs to be connected to the TPS. Then just run your negative probe to the negative post on the battery, and the positive probe to that needle. Turn the ignition on, but you don't need to start it. At idle it should read around .4-.5 volts, and at WOT it should read around 4.5 volts.

Just turn the TPS either way until you are in those specs. If you can't get it relatively close to those specs, you may have a bad TPS.